Full-blown newb advice

[Duane(Pa)]

I'm a total city-slicker, who's operated a chainsaw twice in my life (one time I got the thing stuck in a downed tree). I'm a pretty handy person in general, so I'd be comfortable using a chainsaw after some basic instruction. Anyway, I'm moving to rural Vermont & renting a house that requires wood for heat. The owners estimate I'll need 4-5 cords for the winter. I've searched this site & others a lot & i'm trying to get an idea of what size/type chainsaw I'll need. I've figured I'll probably need a 50cc or thereabouts? Is something like the Husky 455 rancher appropriate for this? Just trying to get some collective wisdom. Most of my friends have just told me to buy the wood, which will probably happen, but I'd like to maybe do half of it myself. Thanks!

Droppin, there is a sub forum here called Firewood, Heating, and Woodburning. You can get some help over there too. This deal will definitely get you back to nature if you're game. It aint rocket science it's forced labor. There's two kinds of saw: heavy, and light. DW

 

[Stormy]

Go with a 60cc saw and spend a lil extra for the pro version as suggested. You might get by with less, but why? What's yer plan B if sumthin happens to the saw? A back-up 45cc would be good to have, and no...nobody ever complained that they had two chainsaws. Right tool for the job at hand, security, and twice the fun. Enjoy.

 

[Marshy]

Go with a 60cc saw and spend a lil extra for the pro version as suggested. You might get by with less, but why? What's yer plan B if sumthin happens to the saw? A back-up 45cc would be good to have, and no...nobody ever complained that they had two chainsaws. Right tool for the job at hand, security, and twice the fun. Enjoy.

All you guys suggesting a 2 saw plan make no sense IMO. The guy doesnt even know how to use one properly yet or even if he's fully committed and yall are tellin him he should have two saws is laughable to me.

The reason a 455 makes sense for him is because they are common and cheap enough on craigslist and have enough power to cut his leg off let alone a few cords of wood. Find one lightly used it should be reliable enough to cut for a few years. Hell, some poeples 2 saw plan is a wild thing and a homelite, why do you go recommend they upgrade to pro saws and see what they say?

 

[jughead500]

Echo....Echo... Echo...

590/600p ...... Cheap reliable and pro grade.learn to use it or you'll be in the hospital.

 

[anlrolfe]

Dad had a Pro McC 10/10. Sixteen pounds of fun w/ 18" B&C. 4 kids and at least 12 cord of slave labor to get us through a Maine winter. We burner a King circulator, similar to an Ashley, 50% efficiency at best I'd suspect. Good times, good times. I wish we had an 026 back then. Other that chainsaw, what type of wood stove and amount of insulation will you have. Better stove and more insulation = less wood. May want to check the fireplace/heating forum.

 

[Topbuilder]

The rancher is looked down on by the pros. you will be happy with it. Plenty of power for what you want to do with it. Not too heavy. I've been running mine pretty hard for years. I keep sayin' when it craps out I'm going to get a pro saw. It just keeps trucking.

 

[7sleeper]

As I already mentioned, I would get a pro built echo 590, some ppe, a Fiskars X25 or 27 and a atv with a little trailer. With that set up you are sufficiently outfitted for all firewood needs. All else is extra.

Good luck!

7

 

[Droppinloads]

I appreciate everyone's feedback, thanks so much! I do actually have decent experience with woodstoves in general, as I've had seasonal houses in Vermont for years. Wood was always purchased though. This'll be the first time I'm living full-time in winter & having to heat primarily by woodstove (the house also has radiant floor heating that uses propane). But the house is designed so the basement woodstove heats the entire house. Anyway, I do plan on purchasing some of the wood, but figured I could supplement that by cutting some of my own. I really just want a saw that will last & is something good for the job. Past experience buying cheap tools has let me to conclude: don't ever buy cheap tools. And by cheap that could also mean something that's designed for cutting a few branches once a year (like what my dad used to do).

 

[Trailtrimmer]

Ever fell a tree or deal with blow downs under compression, tension and torque?

 

[Chris-PA]

A 455 will do just fine. I think the best thing you can do (if possible) is to talk to the present owner and see how he does it. Find out more details, especially about moving the wood and how much he really uses - does that include supplementing with the heating system or wood only? Many times people talk in terns of cords but don't really measure them properly - they use poorly defined terms like "face cord", etc., which are much smaller than an actual cord.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Why are some of you guys trying to shoot him out of the saddle? I mean we all have the same DNA or we wouldn't be here talking.....

 

[Trailtrimmer]

Why are some of you guys trying to shoot him out of the saddle? I mean we all have the same DNA or we wouldn't be here talking.....

Not trying to shoot him out of the saddle, just trying to get him to understand the safety aspect of what he's doing. Things go wrong very quickly and cause great harm if not done properly. A little bit of guidance goes a long way if one can find it.

Also, I've found that dealing with land owners for free wood is a waste of time if you need to deal with tops or they just want clean up done on dead fall. Dirty wood eats chains and anything smaller than 12" at the stump is a waste of time. Big effort for little reward. If you have access to lots of 16"+ standing dead and no need to clean tops, you are golden.

 

[Byrdmando]

The 455 will put up all the firewood you will need. It sure does for me. The best advice I have received and taken is "Learn to sharpen chains"... That has made all the difference in the world for me. I have become a bit of a student of chain sharpening having learned 95% of it from this very forum but it will require a great deal of practice. It is amazing how much a "home owner" saw will feel like a pro saw with a sharp chain (at least it does for me.)

BTW, the 455 will likely come with a 20in bar. Ditch that and drop down to maybe 18in. Has made a big difference in performance for me.

Byrdmando
Coleman Falls, Va.

 

[fearofpavement]

I agree with the above poster. Sharp chains are the key. The 455 is a fine choice for what you want/need to do. Having actually used one, I'd recommend it for your purposes. Just keep whatever bar it comes with, it'll do fine. Regarding all the other stuff, despite how it may come across to you, not a single person on this forum was born knowing how to use a chainsaw, sharpen a chain and split firewood. You have a source of wood. Get a saw, get some knowledge on how to safely use it and get to work. As far as getting the firewood from the woods to your house, pick up a piece in each hand and carry it there. That works, not complicated. This will lead you to develop ever increasing methods of wood handling. A wheelbarrow works perfectly fine for moving wood. A little trailer on the back of a riding mower is an improvement. A trailer behind a small tractor is better yet. And so forth. You'll make mistakes and learn as you go like everyone else that has done similar. Your back up saw for now can be a bow saw and an axe. Later you may want a smaller or larger chainsaw (or 50 or them....) but start somewhere and enjoy your new place.

 

[Mike from Maine]

At the very least get a spare bar and chain for when you get the saw stuck. A second saw is even better.

Don't waste your money on a new rancher or 290. Watch the classifieds here for a good used saw.

 

[farmer steve]

my first saw was a montgomery ward with a 10" bar.(see sig) go ahead and laugh i am. didn't have $ for oil but had a woods full of 8-12" dead oak. drug it out with a rear engine snapper lawn mower. droppinloads like you said a good quality saw and learn to use it and respect it.good luck with whatever you buy.

 

[Stormy]

All you guys suggesting a 2 saw plan make no sense IMO. The guy doesnt even know how to use one properly yet or even if he's fully committed and yall are tellin him he should have two saws is laughable to me.

The reason a 455 makes sense for him is because they are common and cheap enough on craigslist and have enough power to cut his leg off let alone a few cords of wood. Find one lightly used it should be reliable enough to cut for a few years. Hell, some poeples 2 saw plan is a wild thing and a homelite, why do you go recommend they upgrade to pro saws and see what they say?

Cuz if Trailtrimmer's hyperbolic "blow down under compression, tension and torque" falls on him, he'll want a good saw to cut his leg off before the apocalyptic rains drown him under the tree. D'uh. You guys...

Never mind trees falling...the sky is fallin.

 

[7sleeper]

As a beginner I believe in pro teaching, not any self proclaimed know it alls. If you don't have access to such info, good online sources for the theoretical part would be

http://www.stihlusa.com/information/videos/#realvid

http://www2.worksafebc.com/Publications/Multimedia/Videos.asp?ReportID=36885

http://www.husqvarna.com/uk/support/working-with-chainsaws/



These would help you getting started and help you distinguish between people who know what they are doing and the others.

Don't let any threats set you off. Cutting with a chainsaw is definately one of the most dagerous things to do, but if you are prepared and go slowly and recieve a proper training there is no reason to be paranoid! And you will soon understand the reason why so many enjoy the satisfaction of cutting and processing your own wood!

7

 

[Chris-PA]

I agree with the above poster. Sharp chains are the key. The 455 is a fine choice for what you want/need to do. Having actually used one, I'd recommend it for your purposes. Just keep whatever bar it comes with, it'll do fine. Regarding all the other stuff, despite how it may come across to you, not a single person on this forum was born knowing how to use a chainsaw, sharpen a chain and split firewood. You have a source of wood. Get a saw, get some knowledge on how to safely use it and get to work. As far as getting the firewood from the woods to your house, pick up a piece in each hand and carry it there. That works, not complicated. This will lead you to develop ever increasing methods of wood handling. A wheelbarrow works perfectly fine for moving wood. A little trailer on the back of a riding mower is an improvement. A trailer behind a small tractor is better yet. And so forth. You'll make mistakes and learn as you go like everyone else that has done similar. Your back up saw for now can be a bow saw and an axe. Later you may want a smaller or larger chainsaw (or 50 or them....) but start somewhere and enjoy your new place.

Yup. My preferred hauling tool is an old 12hp Wheel Horse and a 4-wheel cart. I use a wheelbarrow moving it around short distances. This doesn't have to be complicated.

 

[Droppinloads]

Ever fell a tree or deal with blow downs under compression, tension and torque?

I have helped fell a tree, but wasn't the guy operating the saw- I understand the general technique for smaller trees.

I'll find out whatever system the current owner uses in a few weeks when I move up. Just thought I'd get a jump start & have some ideas in mind about size/type saw I need. I've also researched basic safety equipment. There's just a lot out there on saws & sometimes I find there's actually too much info. This site is the only place I've found things a little more condensed.

Thanks for those links 7sleeper I'll check them out. I've watched a few videos on the Stihl website already.

Also- just generally speaking, while I've been a city person for years, I am quite comfortable with a range of power tools (table saws, drill presses, etc). I'm also very safety conscious, so I'll be taking my time with everything & not biting off more than I can chew. I probably won't do any felling- I may have mentioned before but the current owner of the house said he almost never has to fell- there's enough on the property that get's downed by wind/ice/snow, etc. over time