I Believe...

[MasterBlaster]

Chain brakes have no place on a top-handled saw used for climbing. Maybe for trainees, but probably not even then. They are the first thing that comes off, right before the spark arrester.


I KNOW I'm not the only one who does this. But then again,


Maybe I am?


Don't everyone freak out at once - you'll jam up the server.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Sorry dude, try not to get too upset.

Go have a smoke. Prepare to endure.


(I was responding to a post wussy RJS deleted... )

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i wouldn't go without a chain brake. On air or ground.
i use it too much, for one thing.........

 

[Matt Follett]

Stupid

I don't jump up and down to often but I'll POUNCE on this

NO WAY!!!!!!! that is the saw's most valuable tool/safety device.

I can't even imagine using a saw anymore without one.

In the tree that's one of those things that makes it a controlled environment

The suggestion begs me to ponder your sanity

I don't really care about kick back, we've come to far in chain developments to really make that an issue for an experianced/aware user, but it's still there in case...
The fact is no chain coes to a complete stop right when you let off the trigger, no matter how well tuned... with all those soft ropes holding me up, I like to know I can stop the saw on a dime if something happens, besides the security of know that if I accidentally pull the triger I'm not lible to open my chest up as I set the saw up in a blocking situation

Ah this isn't even worth the completion of my point.

 

[ORclimber]

To each his own. I hit the the chain brake after every cut in the tree, to much stuff hanging off my belt that could get cut by a running chain, not to mention me feet.

 

[xander9727]

A top handled saws design makes it harder to counteract kickback (your hands are closer together). This fact alone should be reason enough to not "Fool" with it. Other than the occasional accidental engagement why wouldn't you want a chain brake? If that's your logic, better get rid of the kill switch too.

Then again this is from a guy who considers chainsaw injuries "scratches".

If ignorance is bliss I'm sure you're smiling.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Originally posted by TheTreeSpyder
i wouldn't go without a chain brake. On air or ground.
i use it too much, for one thing.........

I TOTALLY AGREE chain brakes are necessary on ANY saw that is not a top-handled saw. My argument is that a Climbing Saw is designed differently and used specifically for a different purpose than any other saw. IMO, chain brakes are there to satisfy ins co and stop homeowners from hurting themselves.
True, what I'm referring to is an advanced type of saw, not for the novice. So shoot me.

Spidey, how do you use your Climbing Saw's chain brake in the tree? I truly am interested. It justs gets in the way and has no use whatsoever for me.

I would be afraid to operate my 066 without it's CB.

 

[Ryan Willock]

I for one happen to be a big fan of chain breaks. I've been on roof tops blocking crap down all day and really appricate having the chain break when I crank the saw. Think about it, you have to drop start it and there is a better than average chance that you could get a bite on your leg

 

[MasterBlaster]

I don't 'drop' my saw to start it, and I TURN IT OFF when I'm through cutting.

Where does the chainbrake fit in here?

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Not using a chainbrake, or should I say: not having one on a climbing saw, is irresponsible and just plain dumb. People that are advocating this are probably in to much of a hurry. An accident waiting to happen!!!

 

[murphy4trees]

Chainbrake fits precisely between the tip of the bar and the tip of your nose... Chainbrakes are a GOOD HABIT!!! In forrestry safety training it is recommend using the chainbrake everytime you plan on taking more than three steps...
As far as top handled saws go the question was asked "why would you want to remove the CB?"... You didn't answer...I would guess not for the weight.... So if not the weight then what??? I would again guess that it's for saw handling in tight places between crotches etc... So I would again guess that you don't carry a handsaw on your saddle...
So consider this an invitation to progressive arboriculture:
Buy a Silky Zubat and leave the chainbrake alone.... You might find that you don't even need a chinsaw at all on the majority of pruning climbs.... And that is a new world... You're going to feel like Peter Pan up there, flying around from limb to limb.... Try it and you'll be glad you did...

 

[geofore]

chainbrake

I do appreciate having a chain brake on the top handle saws though I used saws without chain brakes for 30+ years. Your reaction time to kickback does not increase with age nor your luck increase with time. The odds that the chainbrake will save you from injury out weigh not having a chain brake on the top handle saws. The weighted ones that sense kickback and lock the chain are an improvement over the ones that had to hit the back of your hand to lock. What gains do you make removing the chain break? If it is in your way when cutting you need to change your style of cutting. With low kickback chains and the narrow low kick bars you are still safer with the chain brake. I think you are trolling with this.

 

[murphy4trees]

Rocky,
I was going to PS my last post here with "just ask Brian", but I decided to leave you out of this muck.... So of course I had a big smile with reading your piece...

 

[NeTree]

ANSI eat your heart out....

SHEESH.

 

[murphy4trees]

Rockey quote "Too bad my Zubat doesn't have a chain brake. Damm thing cuts me more than my chainsaw ever did!"

Are you using two hands to remove/replace it in sheath???
That's when I got bit.... moving a little fast and OUCH....

Since I changed my saddle set up at Spidey's suggestion, it hasn't happenned once...One hand only, in and out.... Gotta move the chainsaw to the left side.... Lanysrd throwing and zubat handling require right hand... Chainsaw on and off can be done with the left...
Try it and you'll be glad you did...

 

[TimberMcPherson]

The chain brake on my top handled saws are vital, stopping the saw after every cut is just a waste of time, energy and wear on the starter system of your saw. The "click" on the brake to make the saw safe on the lanyard takes no time to do and doesnt require the addtional effort to get it clicked back to cut again.

I run a 15inch bar on my 020 when bringing down bigger trees, I can think of at least two occations when the brake has operated on kickback. (thankfully)

That kind of thinking is why people dont wear seatbelts or motorcycle helmets. Your perfectly within your right to operate a saw in this way, but be careful not to pass such habits on to others.


Timber

 

[treeman82]

I won't use a saw without a chain brake. It's one of those "simple" safety features which I just won't do without. I say "simple" because when you are actually using the saw it doesn't take much to engage or disengage it as opposed to other safety measures. However mission # 1 is that everybody goes home at the end of the day with no injuries. Whatever it takes for that to happen is fine by me.

 

[ramanujan]

I TOTALLY AGREE chain brakes are necessary on ANY saw that is not a top-handled saw. My argument is that a Climbing Saw is designed differently and used specifically for a different purpose than any other saw. IMO, chain brakes are there to satisfy ins co and stop homeowners from hurting themselves.

While I agree that a arbo saw is designed differently and often used differently than typical saws I would argue that saw use in trees is just as or more prone to kickback as use on the ground. I think that most guys here have had their inertia brakes activate from kickback while in trees. I know I have.

How does the brake get in your way? Maneuvering between limbs? Causing the dawgs to be ineffective when making larger cuts? Snagging rope/twigs/bits of gear? I acknowledge these nuisances but they're no excuse to rip off the one thing on dangerous tool that makes it significantly safer.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i use my 020's chain brake all the time. i set myself up to make cuts all around me sometimes, and especially engage the brake as the running saw whips by lines etc. to cut on the other side of me. When i one hand the running saw climbing, i might shove or pull the brake lever/actuator against a stick or under a log; as if my other hand was there for at least that purpose.

3 step rule sounds like a good start on the ground, sometimes i guess i engage it (especially larger bars) before taking a step or just pivoting quickly to the next cut.

i think the more power the saw has, the more it can take against ye. The longer the bar, the more leveraged that power can get further against you. The closer your hands, the less leverage of control over all that that you have.

i think select fire is more proffessional, safer; the brake easy to use. Sometimes, could really argue that being comfy with it can be more produdctive. If noone is supposed to be around, you are watching and sure, and chain brake is on,off,on,off,on...... you can very confidentally whip around etc. IMLHO

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Now that everyone has told you you are stupid for taking off the brake, I'm going to tell you that you are stupid for taking off the muffler screen.
You are stupid for taking off the muffler screen (I said I was going to tell you).
It keeps crap from getting into the motor. It does not improve saw performance to remove it, unless it gets clogged up, then just clean it. When you get crap in the motor all the time, it wears the cylinder walls and rings, this causes a loss of power, not a gain.