Is the shop lying to me and next steps?

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WoodLuvr said:
I do like the price. That's for darn sure. But opinions on quality are split right down the middle and that scares me. I think I might go NOS on eBay when I get the dough.

For now, is there anything I can/should check out on the saw before I get the parts and start the rebuild? Maybe I should put it back together enough to do a bleed down test. What you say?
Click to expand...
Bleed down test? If you mean vac- pressure test then yes. A good shop would do this before teardown, lean seized saws are sometimes easy to confuse with straight gassed ones.:cool:
 
grizz55chev said:
Bleed down test? If you mean vac- pressure test then yes. A good shop would do this before teardown, lean seized saws are sometimes easy to confuse with straight gassed ones.:cool:
Click to expand...

Yes, that is what I meant. I watched a video wherein the guy did both pressure and suction. The shop I dealt with said they don't ever do that until they feel the need. I think I should put it back together and do so.
 
WoodLuvr said:
Yes, that is what I meant. I watched a video wherein the guy did both pressure and suction. The shop I dealt with said they don't ever do that until they feel the need. I think I should put it back together and do so.
Click to expand...

Just build it with a new P&C then vac test it.


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Doesn't take long to throw the cylinder on it. Leave the piston out.You can make simple block off plates. Usually you can slip a piece of rubber behind the muffler for that end. No reason not to check whether you need seals. You also need to remove the recoil starter and use the flywheel to get an idea how good your bearings are.

adapters.jpg
 
My guess the dealer got the saw lean seized. Threw a after market Chinese p&c on it and never vac tested it since they don’t do that there. Sold the op a $600 saw for $900 and the original problem was never fixed. Now we are full circle with a lean seized saw that needs a p&c. Now the op is gonna have $1200+ in a $750 saw if he puts oem top end on it. I would report this dealer to Stihl.
 
Woody harrelson said:
My guess the dealer got the saw lean seized. Threw a after market Chinese p&c on it and never vac tested it since they don’t do that there. Sold the op a $600 saw for $900 and the original problem was never fixed. Now we are full circle with a lean seized saw that needs a p&c. Now the op is gonna have $1200+ in a $750 saw if he puts oem top end on it. I would report this dealer to Stihl.
Click to expand...

cuinrearview said:
IF this whole story is true, it's no wonder he didn't want you to take it! I'd be on the phone with him in a hot minute.
Click to expand...

Too bad only I and him know for sure it's true. There's no concrete way I can prove all this. Wish I had a camera crew with me each time. Regardless, I don't want anymore drama. Just want to move on. Long ago I came to the realization that in today's day in age you really have to become an expert for yourself in everything. Kinda wish I lived up there in Oregon or someplace where the range of options in choosing an establishment are greater.
 
Another question just to clarify. When we say lean versus rich we're talking gas right, not oil? I think there has been some mismatch of espressions where I've looked.
 
You want to check for play at big end of the connecting rod as well as the crank main bearings.

Might try and look for shadowing at the base gasket to verify that cylinder was on those cases as doubt had been speculated.

Sure seems to me from the looks of that piston the operator would be almost certain something terrible happened.
 
Franny K said:
You want to check for play at big end of the connecting rod as well as the crank main bearings.

Might try and look for shadowing at the base gasket to verify that cylinder was on those cases as doubt had been speculated.

Sure seems to me from the looks of that piston the operator would be almost certain something terrible happened.
Click to expand...

I already wiggled the big end of the rod and it's pretty stiff although it does slide from side to side on the bearing which I'm guessing is normal.

Seems like it'd be a good idea to tear apart the bottom end to clean it real good 'cause I'm concerned with shavings from the P&C in there. When I do that I assume that'd be the time to check those main bearings and go ahead and replace the seals anyways right?

Shadowing! Something I should have thought of. Thank you. I checked it and the gasket top definitely matches the cylinder base.
 
WoodLuvr said:
I do like the price. That's for darn sure. But opinions on quality are split right down the middle and that scares me. I think I might go NOS on eBay when I get the dough.
Click to expand...

If you were logging with it, I'd agree with you. But I would bet the 300% price difference that you would never wear out a nice quality AM piston and cylinder doing anything less than daily hogging with that saw. Lately I have been very impressed with the quality of Hyway cylinders. Or pick Meteor stuff. They are very good product as well. I would jump right on either for a non-pro part time, occasional use ranch and firewood saw. You will never wear out either if they are installed correctly.

WoodLuvr said:
Seems like it'd be a good idea to tear apart the bottom end to clean it real good 'cause I'm concerned with shavings from the P&C in there. When I do that I assume that'd be the time to check those main bearings and go ahead and replace the seals anyways right?
Click to expand...

Whole new level of assembly disassembly. Not hard, need a case splitter, and probably more than double your time investment. Personally, I would use carb cleaner, then compressed air and blow out the case. Then pull the seals and oil up the bearings from the outside. Others may have other ideas. That's just my 2¢.

Rick
 
Rick Stephens said:
If you were logging with it, I'd agree with you. But I would bet the 300% price difference that you would never wear out a nice quality AM piston and cylinder doing anything less than daily hogging with that saw. Lately I have been very impressed with the quality of Hyway cylinders. Or pick Meteor stuff. They are very good product as well. I would jump right on either for a non-pro part time, occasional use ranch and firewood saw. You will never wear out either if they are installed correctly.
Rick
Click to expand...

Well I actually upgraded to the bigger saw in part because I wanted to start ripping some lumber. Doing that I believe I'll need the best quality because of the longer WOT run times.

Rick Stephens said:
Whole new level of assembly disassembly. Not hard, need a case splitter, and probably more than double your time investment. Personally, I would use carb cleaner, then compressed air and blow out the case. Then pull the seals and oil up the bearings from the outside. Others may have other ideas. That's just my 2¢.

Rick
Click to expand...

Sounds good but will I be able to check on those bearings that way?
 
WoodLuvr said:
Well I actually upgraded to the bigger saw in part because I wanted to start ripping some lumber. Doing that I believe I'll need the best quality because of the longer WOT run times.
Click to expand...

I've never done any milling. Not qualified to state any kind of opinion. Other's will have to step in for this.

Rick
 

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