I'm going to be taking a lot of pictures with my iPhone!!When you disassemble it, get some ice cube trays or egg cartons to put all the pieces in as you go. Then when it's time to reassemble, you just work backwards emptying the compartments.
I'm going to be taking a lot of pictures with my iPhone!!When you disassemble it, get some ice cube trays or egg cartons to put all the pieces in as you go. Then when it's time to reassemble, you just work backwards emptying the compartments.
if you're going to rebuild or replace the long block. it's best to go with the 390/039 they're the same except one has a bigger hole and significantly more power. when you overhaul the motor, the only thing that isn't replaced is the clam shell pan. a long block is a little easier since you don't have to remove and replace the piston and you don't have to assemble the pan with sealer. i like the long blocks from baileysonline.com but they are more expensive.If I rella the piston and honed out the cylinder, what mm will it be. Ms290 is a 46 mm from factory. If I put the long block in that's a 49mm I could run a 24" bar. As of now I can only run a 20" bar
if you're going to rebuild or replace the long block. it's best to go with the 390/039 they're the same except one has a bigger hole and significantly more power. when you overhaul the motor, the only thing that isn't replaced is the clam shell pan. a long block is a little easier since you don't have to remove and replace the piston and you don't have to assemble the pan with sealer. i like the long blocks from baileysonline.com but they are more expensive.
didn't know that. are you speaking of the nwp units or all short blocks for this saw? i know that i saw an earlier thread, a couple of years ago discussing the nwp kits that weren't well sealed and later that they had corrected that problem. i've only done the overhaul with a hyway kit.Not quite. The complete engine is assembled but, it will be necessary to apply the sealer of your choice between the 'pan' and cylinder bottom.
When you disassemble it, get some ice cube trays or egg cartons to put all the pieces in as you go. Then when it's time to reassemble, you just work backwards emptying the compartments.
I usually shake for almost a full minute when I first mix it and I always give a little shake before each fuel upI had a 1 gallon wine jug I saved to use for something nothing really in mind just thought I should save it. Well I needed some mix the other day and my saw gas is a 1/4 mile out in the woods so I said well I will just mix up a gallon in this glass jug. I put the oil in the jug first then 1 gallon of regular gas. I was amazed how poorly it blended with the gas.
I bet I shook that jug,.." violently I might add" at least 50 times and there was still some un-mixed oil on the bottom of the jug. This is the stihl orange 2.6 oz ? bottle. You may have never ever have had an issue with you gas/oil mixture but I bet you don't shake it 50 good shakes ...do you ? If you could see what I saw it would give you a real education it did me.
So your telling me that I'll have to disassemble a new engine and seal it with high temp silicon then put it back togather before I put it in the sawNot quite. The complete engine is assembled but, it will be necessary to apply the sealer of your choice between the 'pan' and cylinder bottom.
Yup but, easy peasy.So your telling me that I'll have to disassemble a new engine and seal it with high temp silicon then put it back togather before I put it in the saw
in a word, no.here's a picture of the "clamshell" engine:So your telling me that I'll have to disassemble a new engine and seal it with high temp silicon then put it back togather before I put it in the saw
I usually shake for almost a full minute when I first mix it and I always give a little shake before each fuel up
All of them. Welcome to AS.I'm Curious ......what is the best saw to own ?? I plan on cutting 25-30 cords of wood this summer.
in a word, no.here's a picture of the "clamshell" engine:
View attachment 407188
you may need to apply a sealer between the bottom (pan) and the cylinder casting. silicon is not satisfactory. you need a special sealant that is fuel and oil proof. i think the units from
baileysonline.com
may be sealed at the factory. perhaps someone who has used one will chime in. the 039/390 units have a bore for a compression releif valve. the plastics don't have a hole for it so you either have to drill one or put a plug in the hole in the cylinder casting. the plug is available from baileys ond other sources.
There is no "best saw" that is why you see people talk about three saw plans.I'm Curious ......what is the best saw to own ?? I plan on cutting 25-30 cords of wood this summer.
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