Ms290 burnt up!

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When you disassemble it, get some ice cube trays or egg cartons to put all the pieces in as you go. Then when it's time to reassemble, you just work backwards emptying the compartments.
I'm going to be taking a lot of pictures with my iPhone!!
 
If I rella the piston and honed out the cylinder, what mm will it be. Ms290 is a 46 mm from factory. If I put the long block in that's a 49mm I could run a 24" bar. As of now I can only run a 20" bar
if you're going to rebuild or replace the long block. it's best to go with the 390/039 they're the same except one has a bigger hole and significantly more power. when you overhaul the motor, the only thing that isn't replaced is the clam shell pan. a long block is a little easier since you don't have to remove and replace the piston and you don't have to assemble the pan with sealer. i like the long blocks from baileysonline.com but they are more expensive.
 
While you're at it, this would be a perfect time to do a muff mod on that restrictive muffler. It makes a big difference on that saw. If you do a search on the topic, you'll find a lot of useful info.
 
if you get the long block you get a new crank bearings and seals. if you just slap a jug on there with a new piston you won't have a all new bottom end .

i figure the long block install will be less work IF the rest is kaput. and the odds don't sound all that good on it not needing new seals, bearings and so on.
 
if you're going to rebuild or replace the long block. it's best to go with the 390/039 they're the same except one has a bigger hole and significantly more power. when you overhaul the motor, the only thing that isn't replaced is the clam shell pan. a long block is a little easier since you don't have to remove and replace the piston and you don't have to assemble the pan with sealer. i like the long blocks from baileysonline.com but they are more expensive.

Not quite. The complete engine is assembled but, it will be necessary to apply the sealer of your choice between the 'pan' and cylinder bottom.
 
Not quite. The complete engine is assembled but, it will be necessary to apply the sealer of your choice between the 'pan' and cylinder bottom.
didn't know that. are you speaking of the nwp units or all short blocks for this saw? i know that i saw an earlier thread, a couple of years ago discussing the nwp kits that weren't well sealed and later that they had corrected that problem. i've only done the overhaul with a hyway kit.
 
I had a 1 gallon wine jug I saved to use for something nothing really in mind just thought I should save it. Well I needed some mix the other day and my saw gas is a 1/4 mile out in the woods so I said well I will just mix up a gallon in this glass jug. I put the oil in the jug first then 1 gallon of regular gas. I was amazed how poorly it blended with the gas.
I bet I shook that jug,.." violently I might add" at least 50 times and there was still some un-mixed oil on the bottom of the jug. This is the stihl orange 2.6 oz ? bottle. You may have never ever have had an issue with you gas/oil mixture but I bet you don't shake it 50 good shakes ...do you ? If you could see what I saw it would give you a real education it did me.
I usually shake for almost a full minute when I first mix it and I always give a little shake before each fuel up
 
Not quite. The complete engine is assembled but, it will be necessary to apply the sealer of your choice between the 'pan' and cylinder bottom.
So your telling me that I'll have to disassemble a new engine and seal it with high temp silicon then put it back togather before I put it in the saw
 
So your telling me that I'll have to disassemble a new engine and seal it with high temp silicon then put it back togather before I put it in the saw
Yup but, easy peasy.

Just remove the four screws (you have to anyway as they hold the engine in the chassis.) lift off the engine 'pan', apply the sealer you prefer, replace the pan, rotate the engine down into the chassis and run the bolts in. Use blue Loctite on the threads for good measure.

I prefer Permatex #2 Form-a-Gasket as I've used it forever and dislike silicon sealers.
 
So your telling me that I'll have to disassemble a new engine and seal it with high temp silicon then put it back togather before I put it in the saw
in a word, no.here's a picture of the "clamshell" engine:

039_shortblock.JPG

you may need to apply a sealer between the bottom (pan) and the cylinder casting. silicon is not satisfactory. you need a special sealant that is fuel and oil proof. i think the units from

baileysonline.com

may be sealed at the factory. perhaps someone who has used one will chime in. the 039/390 units have a bore for a compression releif valve. the plastics don't have a hole for it so you either have to drill one or put a plug in the hole in the cylinder casting. the plug is available from baileys ond other sources.
 
I usually shake for almost a full minute when I first mix it and I always give a little shake before each fuel up

Maybe that's why I put half the fuel in the mix jug, add the oil and shake (twist it) vigorously, and then add the rest of the fuel.

Carrying the fuel jug in the bed of a p/u helps (shake it), and ALWAYS twist & shake the sealed jug a bit before pouring it into the saw. Maybe moderate paranoia helps?
 
I'm Curious ......what is the best saw to own ?? I plan on cutting 25-30 cords of wood this summer.
 
in a word, no.here's a picture of the "clamshell" engine:

View attachment 407188

you may need to apply a sealer between the bottom (pan) and the cylinder casting. silicon is not satisfactory. you need a special sealant that is fuel and oil proof. i think the units from

baileysonline.com

may be sealed at the factory. perhaps someone who has used one will chime in. the 039/390 units have a bore for a compression releif valve. the plastics don't have a hole for it so you either have to drill one or put a plug in the hole in the cylinder casting. the plug is available from baileys ond other sources.

The above Farmertec sold by Hutzl is what I used. It needs the sealer applied like I described above. It come with both a comp. release and a plug for the hole. It didn't need the release.

I'm 70, skinny and out of shape. If I don't need it who does?
 
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