i also have a 290 that is in need of a rebuild. its going to cost me about 166 to get it back running thats shipping and everything. I am wondering if this saw is even worth all the time of putting it back together plus the grand total of 136$ in parts plus the 30$ i paid for the burnt saw?
Ms290 burnt up!
- Thread starter Mud man
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Up here you can buy a brand new one for close to 350
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
If it doesn't need new bearings, you can put a meteor (incl caber rings), new seals and some sealant for less than $50. This assumes you can clean the cylinder.
there ya go ^^^^
My 390 engine came in today. But there's no seal on the bottom plate I guess I'll have to use a high temp rvt sealer. How tight should the screws be torqued??
towingace
ArboristSite Guru
Isn't rvt (rtv) a silicone product? If so, that is not what you want to use! A couple people already mentioned that, on the previous page.
I miss spoke, I will use permatex. Thanks
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
Better use Dirko (specified by Stihl) or Hondabond, Yamabond type product. Many of the sealers do not provide gas/oil resistance. Others will chime in on this issue. If the right sealer is not used it will suck and air leak and kill the saw. Get the right sealer before you put the clamshell back together. Put a light coat of sealer on the outer seal lips, and make sure you coat the inner seal lips with mix oil -- or the such like. Any more serious questions, post them before you throw your hard earned dollars out the window.
Duke Thieroff
Fill your hands, you SOB!
Spend the extra on the Dirko or the Threebond...cheap insurance.
Do you sell the dirko? I'm Going to come see you next week and get the other parts that you suggested that I need to change , i.e. impulse line and other stuff.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Permatex does make a suitable product called Motoseal 1. Do not use typical gasket sealer, you need a sealer made for two stroke engines.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Yeah, what Stephen said. He must type faster than me.
Duke Thieroff
Fill your hands, you SOB!
I do not....
Some of the rubber parts I have in stock, some I do not but can source for you.
the permatex motoseal has worked for me. i keep a tube of it in my roll-away. get exactly what was mentioned in the post above. look for the gray tube and check the part number. almost isn't good enuff. be sure to get a new fuel line, impulse line and intake boot. replace all rubber while you're in there. these saws are a pain to take apart. and re-assemble. you don't want to do it twice. use a piece of strong string tied in a slip knot to pull the rubber front engine mount and impulse boot thru the case. crisco is a good lube for that.
good luck, hope this helps
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you don't have the matching top cover--plug it. One less compression leak to bother with.
BigRed96
ArboristSite Operative
Another vote for rebuilding using the Farmertec/Hutzl products. I rebuilt the saw in this video as well as another using the Hutzl kit which included the 390 p&c, bearings, seals, and a host of other items. I was able to build a 290-390 conversion with this kit and a couple other pieces for 135.00. I also purchased and used Caber rings for both rebuilds. That price didn't include the price of the saw.
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have not used Yamabond or Hondabond but there are good reports on both. Dirko is used by Stihl in all their clamshell motors and I ordered a tube over the inet 2 years ago for $12. It has done 10-15 motors and still have half a tube. Doesn't take but a small bead in the groove. I also smear a little in the bearing grooves on both the case and the cap for additional insurance. I "c" clamp the motor halves together and let the sealant dry over nite. Then put the motor back in the case the following day. That way I dont have to worry about the case seperating while the sealant is wet while trying to get the motor back in the case. Some guys dont do it this way and that works for them. I just dont like trying to jossle the motor back into the case while holding the cap on the crankcase.
