Poulan 25DS?

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Do you guys know how many guide plates are used on the S25DA? It only shows one on the IPL but my Jonsered 70E uses 2 so I am just wondering.

I am guessing you refer to the bar guide plates?
I use 2 on the ones I have. Make sure you put the oil slot in the right place. Have seen some older ones with only bolt holes and no oil slot, that would go on the outside.
 
Fuel Line and filter ???

I just ran a new fuel line in my S25DA. How much do I leave in the tank? I am assuming the fuel filter is heavy so that it will go to the bottom of the tank depending on how you hold the saw but I want to get the length right the first time.
 
I just ran a new fuel line in my S25DA. How much do I leave in the tank? I am assuming the fuel filter is heavy so that it will go to the bottom of the tank depending on how you hold the saw but I want to get the length right the first time.

i take you received the parts i know i packed the box good and snug

to protect it in transit
 
Feed some rope thru the plug hole into the piston chamber to hold the piston. You risk damaging a ring going thru the muffler port. The clutch is reverse thread and usually has to be shocked off ie: impact wrench some of those poulans you could get off by using a drift rod and hammer hit at the right spot. Does it run yet?
I tapped my clutches off both my supers with a hammer. There is an arrow and the word off stamped on the clutch, just bang it in the direction of the arrow.
 
Maybe this page from the factory service manual will help you out.

Yes, this is exactly what I needed. Got it in, and now it runs (but not that great). I did remove the coil to get the fuel line snaked through. How sensitive is the gap between the coil and the flywheel? I sort of let the magnet on the flywheel hold the coil in place and tightened up the bolts.
 
yes, exactly like that (except not a fancy matching green fuel line!). I couldn't get the fuel line routed behind the flywheel without taking it off.
 
Some of them have fittings that the fuel line jumps from/to instead of one continuous line from what I understand as well.
 
Yes, this is exactly what I needed. Got it in, and now it runs (but not that great). I did remove the coil to get the fuel line snaked through. How sensitive is the gap between the coil and the flywheel? I sort of let the magnet on the flywheel hold the coil in place and tightened up the bolts.

The coil to flywheel gap is .012
 
The coil to flywheel gap is .012

I shimmed the gap to .012. Runs a bit better but still pretty rough. It takes forever for it to come down from wound up to idle and the chain never stops moving even when it does. I have a carb kit coming for this, maybe that will solve the remaining problems.:biggrinbounce2:
 
I shimmed the gap to .012. Runs a bit better but still pretty rough. It takes forever for it to come down from wound up to idle and the chain never stops moving even when it does. I have a carb kit coming for this, maybe that will solve the remaining problems.:biggrinbounce2:


If it don't you better check for a air leak...
 
Tuning an rewind issues

I rebuilt the carb on my S25DA (did not take the welch plug out per advice on this site).

I am having a heck of a time tuning this. I started the needles at 1 1/4 turn out (per modifiedmark) but still can't make it idle. It does spit fuel out the carb a bit when I rev it up. As soon as I let off the trigger it winds down and dies. When I had the muffler off I did not see any damage to the piston, very thing looks very clean and unscored.:chainsaw:

Also, my tuning progress has been interrupted because the rewind spring keeps coming off the center where the 4 tines are. The spring looks to be in great condition but how do I keep it from coming off the center tine?

:givebeer:
 
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