Poulan 25DS?

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briantutt said:
I rebuilt the carb on my S25DA (did not take the welch plug out per advice on this site).

I am having a heck of a time tuning this. I started the needles at 1 1/4 turn out (per modifiedmark) but still can't make it idle. It does spit fuel out the carb a bit when I rev it up. As soon as I let off the trigger it winds down and dies. When I had the muffler off I did not see any damage to the piston, very thing looks very clean and unscored.:chainsaw:

Also, my tuning progress has been interrupted because the rewind spring keeps coming off the center where the 4 tines are. The spring looks to be in great condition but how do I keep it from coming off the center tine?

:givebeer:
Click to expand...


I have had success in bending, ever so slightly, that inner-most end of the spring coil that comes in contact with the rewind pulley. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to reform it slightly toward the center.
 
Hard to tune S25DA

Do my tuning problems sound like an air leak? I think I could pressure test this without a lot of trouble. I am an engineer at a pressure reg company so I could produce a 3-5 psi regulated test setup pretty easy ;)
 
Poulan S25DA Compression

What is the compression supposed to be on a Poulan S25DA? I finally bought a tester.
 
Corrected Pouland S25DA

lawnmowertech37 said:
brian that gasket part # was 530019055 for that gasket that appeartnly is the wrong one on the ipl
Click to expand...

Lawnmowertech37 has identified an error on the Pouland S25DA IPL. The carb cover gasket. I have put a corrected IPL up.
 
Just curious

Who advised you not to remove the welch plug?

Your symptoms seem to indicate now that your low speed passages made be clogged.

Take off the carburetor and take out the low speed adjustment screw and spray carburetor cleaner in the hole with the extension tube while holding the throttle plate open.

You should see the cleaner come out three holes into the bore of the carburetor right where the throttle plate edge rests when it is closed.

You can also use high pressure are to try to clear the low speed passage but DO NOT use high pressure air in the high speed jet hole.

Most times if the passages are clogged there is still junk that moves around under the welch plug which will cause you idle problems after you get the low speed holes cleared.
 
S25DA Problems

I put the rewind back on. I get 125 psi compression with the 1 and a half pulls I get before the stupid spring jumps the sprocket inside the rewind. Before the rewind started acting up I did try to move the low idle in and out but it just seemed like it made almost no difference. If I could get past the rewind issues I would try the low speed idle adjustment again. You are probably right that I need to pull the welch plug. Now that I have read more I wouldn't be too scared to pop a very small hole in it pull it out. There is a brass colored plug near the same place that the aluminum welch plug is there was not a replacement for that one in the kit however.
 
briantutt said:
I put the rewind back on. I get 125 psi compression with the 1 and a half pulls I get before the stupid spring jumps the sprocket inside the rewind. Before the rewind started acting up I did try to move the low idle in and out but it just seemed like it made almost no difference. If I could get past the rewind issues I would try the low speed idle adjustment again. You are probably right that I need to pull the welch plug. Now that I have read more I wouldn't be too scared to pop a very small hole in it pull it out. There is a brass colored plug near the same place that the aluminum welch plug is there was not a replacement for that one in the kit however.
Click to expand...

Leave the brass one alone...it is the main nozzle....

Just be careful if you remove the plug not to dig straight down trying to pry it out.....use a fine pick and tap the point just through the plug at an angle just enough to be able to pry it out.

It sounds like you may need a new recoil spring or a pulley or both
 
I don't see any damage to the pulley.

I bet a NOS spring would fix it up.

I will pull the carb apart again and do the welch plug this time while I look for a spring.
 
PES+ said:
Who advised you not to remove the welch plug?

Your symptoms seem to indicate now that your low speed passages made be clogged.

Take off the carburetor and take out the low speed adjustment screw and spray carburetor cleaner in the hole with the extension tube while holding the throttle plate open.

You should see the cleaner come out three holes into the bore of the carburetor right where the throttle plate edge rests when it is closed.

You can also use high pressure are to try to clear the low speed passage but DO NOT use high pressure air in the high speed jet hole.

Most times if the passages are clogged there is still junk that moves around under the welch plug which will cause you idle problems after you get the low speed holes cleared.
Click to expand...


There have been guys posting here about not needing to remove the welch plugs, most noticeably the HL rebuild thread and I disagree with that as a blanket statement.

Here is a picture of a HL that I just did recently, notice the black crap that was floating around under the welch plug. This is a good example of what can be left behind. I was going to post this in the HL thread but just didn't get around to it, but it fits here as well.

attachment.php


Also notice the small hole that I drilled through the welch plug to help with it's removal. A small tool can be inserted in the hole that was drilled to pop the plug right out.

Be very carefull when drilling the hole in the plug as to not go too deep when drilling, and I will only drill one in my drill press as to be able to controll the depth that way.
 
Last edited:
Many ways to skin a cat.....I use an automatic center punch with a reground sharp tip on the smaller round plugs.

The only problem with drilling is if you miss and chips when you clean it out and put in the new plug...easy to miss a small chip that makes for intermittent idle problems.

you can also just dimple the plug with the drill then push the pick through at an angle to avoid the swarf
 
PES+ said:
Many ways to skin a cat.....I use an automatic center punch with a reground sharp tip on the smaller round plugs.

The only problem with drilling is if you miss and chips when you clean it out and put in the new plug...easy to miss a small chip that makes for intermittent idle problems.

you can also just dimple the plug with the drill then push the pick through at an angle to avoid the swarf
Click to expand...

I agree, I just never liked to beat around on one. Lots of time I never go all the way through with the drill.

Just trying to help out.
 
Different ways all have drawbacks

I am only trying to help too Mark.....wasn't quarreling with you or trying to say one way is better than another....was just pointing out disadvantages of different ways which I have learned the hard way.
 
Clean under welch plug

I removed the welch plug. It is very clean under there, looked through all the ports with an Ottoscope they are clean too.

What is the best way to put the new plug in, I was thinking an arbor press. DO I use a tool larger than the plug so when I contact the carb floor it stops or do I use a smaller than the plug diameter tool and push until flat?
 
I posted this in the Poulan thread but so many people post there it gets buried in 3.14 nanoseconds so I will try here.

I got my new spring from Calvin and after finally reading the instructions in plain english on the cover on "how to operate" here is what I get.

I choke it and hold the throttle. It pops right off, then I shut the choke off and while holding the trigger wide open it runs like crap. If I let off the throttle a little it winds up to very high RPMs (like my dad's 357XP which rips). Anyway when I let off the throttle it still runs very fast just like I am giving it gas on a normal saw. Fuel filter and line are new, carb is rebuilt with both needles 1 1/4 backed out, air filter new, spark plug is new...

Any ideas?
 
Sometimes the 1 1/4 turns open on the low is too lean,open it 2 full turns and go from there.
 
HimWill said:
Sometimes the 1 1/4 turns open on the low is too lean,open it 2 full turns and go from there.
Click to expand...

Tries this, didn't do anything so I screwed it all the way in and idel finally came down at about 1/8 turn out then died.
 

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