Poulan saw
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Brian B.
ArboristSite Operative
The omly problem (potentially) with going that route- last four or so saws ordered that way came in less than new condition... For me I'll sacrifice the higher $55 rate for a better chance at a new saw vs open box. (Make no mistake, you'll get what they send you, but mine was literally brand news never seen wood)
woodchuck357
Addicted to ArboristSite
I got caught up in a storm away from home a while back and bought a pouland pro 5020 at a farm supply store to help out. It came with a chisel chain which was nearly useless clearing storm damage. A semi chain, opening up the muffler and adjusting the carb made the thing cut great. I'm still working the fire out of it and it's still going good.
There is a recent thread on the PP 5020, saying how great it can be made to run, too. Much like the Earthquake thread.
Brian B.
ArboristSite Operative
My 5020 is great, factory chain was, ehh, a homeowner chain, they all suck.... And they all come with ho,wonder chains anymore... The only "problem" I have had is the nose sprocket got hard jammed up twice, probably my fault, hasn't done it in a while now.
The Ripper
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On the 5020 cap off the factory exhaust exit and weld 3/4" by 1 1/4"length pipe, weld near the upper right corner off muffler and just angle it out some,then smooth the transition to the pipe from inside ,it's needs to be offset from the exhaust port. next file the carb butterfly screws(heads half the thickness ) other end of screw file if flush with the shaft. Do it to all of them. You'll lesson the air drag while increasing the carbs flow potential. This mod along and the muffler will make a hugh impact on how the saw pulls along with broadening the power. The final mod would be to widen the exhaust port to about 60 to 62% of bore. widen the port out to 26.5 0r 27.5mm,I went with the latter of the two. leave the middle alone and work the ends and square the port from bore to exit to your selective size and don't forget to chamfer the port. These mods really transform that saws character and you'll be grinning looking to rip wood. MY next mod will be installing a bigger zama carb.
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Macman125
libertarian/anarcho-capitalist firewood hack
I just might have to check that out.
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Brian B.
ArboristSite Operative
I just checked, they are still there, buy two, lol,.... They are actually kick butt saws... Remind me of the MS250, (after you open up the muff)
diggers_dad
Sawchologist
I'm no expert on either of the saws up for discussion, but I own several of each. For what it's worth, either saw will perform just fine if taken care of properly, provided it's running a decent chain.
Poulan: Many are still made in the US (Nashville, Arkansas), parts are available EVERYWHERE and pretty cheap. The models which have anti-vibe are much preferred and although not a "have to", a muffler mod, richening up the carb and putting on a good bar and chain combo will let the saw show its true potential. Don't pay attention to what the flashy sticker says for cc displacement, look at the EPA tag; it tells the true story. They've been making essentially the same saw for a couple of decades, they have the bugs worked out.
Bottom line: With anti-vibe and some minor mods these home-owner saws will cut well for many years if cared for properly.
Earthquake: Nice little saw with good anti-vibe, but pretty slow right out of the box. As Brian B. pointed out they are "as is" saws and priced appropriately. I have bought 2 of the 45 cc saws, 3 of the 41 cc saws and 6 or more of the 38 cc saws. Every one I bought ran just fine out of the box but was begging for attention. The mufflers are choked down and the carbs are a bit on the lean side. With a muffler mod (several options in the Earthquake thread) and some basic tuning these are surprisingly strong little saws. I carry at least one on every cutting trip. The 38 cc, 41 cc and 45 cc designs are Chinese copies of proven, reliable, professional grade Redmax platforms. In most cases parts will directly interchange between the two.
Bottom line: With some minor mods these little saws wake up nicely and perform very well. They have an adjustable oiler and construction is similar to a pro grade saw.
I have used both of these and cut a lot of wood with them. Either one is a great entry level saw for a weekend wood cutter or wanna-be saw builder. If you run into problems with either, shoot me a PM. I'll bet I've already experienced it and can help you figure it out.
dd
Poulan: Many are still made in the US (Nashville, Arkansas), parts are available EVERYWHERE and pretty cheap. The models which have anti-vibe are much preferred and although not a "have to", a muffler mod, richening up the carb and putting on a good bar and chain combo will let the saw show its true potential. Don't pay attention to what the flashy sticker says for cc displacement, look at the EPA tag; it tells the true story. They've been making essentially the same saw for a couple of decades, they have the bugs worked out.
Bottom line: With anti-vibe and some minor mods these home-owner saws will cut well for many years if cared for properly.
Earthquake: Nice little saw with good anti-vibe, but pretty slow right out of the box. As Brian B. pointed out they are "as is" saws and priced appropriately. I have bought 2 of the 45 cc saws, 3 of the 41 cc saws and 6 or more of the 38 cc saws. Every one I bought ran just fine out of the box but was begging for attention. The mufflers are choked down and the carbs are a bit on the lean side. With a muffler mod (several options in the Earthquake thread) and some basic tuning these are surprisingly strong little saws. I carry at least one on every cutting trip. The 38 cc, 41 cc and 45 cc designs are Chinese copies of proven, reliable, professional grade Redmax platforms. In most cases parts will directly interchange between the two.
Bottom line: With some minor mods these little saws wake up nicely and perform very well. They have an adjustable oiler and construction is similar to a pro grade saw.
I have used both of these and cut a lot of wood with them. Either one is a great entry level saw for a weekend wood cutter or wanna-be saw builder. If you run into problems with either, shoot me a PM. I'll bet I've already experienced it and can help you figure it out.
dd
DiggersDad,
Do you know which Earthquake is a copy of which Redmax saw? I've got a Redmax 400, a 4000 and a couple of Ryobi 10532s and consider them great little saws.
Thanks,
David
IMHO I would just pick up a used small Homey top handle to do yard work with, they're cheap to buy and run, light weight for one hand use, handle a 14" bar well and run forever. I have a couple of them that I use as back up when felling trees or for limbing. For pruning they are the nuts. They are always for sale on e-bay. The Super 2 is my truck choice.
dschroeder
ArboristSite Operative
I have a homelite xl on the shelf that needs a new b/c. Runs good (kinda cold blooded) but seems to have a few issues on that oiling system side (or maybe the nature of the beast). Anyways here's what it does....
Before the first start when I too off the fuel and bar oil tanks it immediately starts putting oil to the bar. I know its a pressurized tank oiling system and they can continue to oil after you shut them off but this occurs after filling the tank and will stop when it's about half empty.
Other thing is it doesn't seem to oil (bar gets hot and chain super tight) when the oil is below 3/4 full and you roll it clutch side down to cut a stump off. Once it cools chain loosens up to how it was.
Any advice? I'm kinda stumped which is why I started looking at a new "cheap/beater saw"
Before the first start when I too off the fuel and bar oil tanks it immediately starts putting oil to the bar. I know its a pressurized tank oiling system and they can continue to oil after you shut them off but this occurs after filling the tank and will stop when it's about half empty.
Other thing is it doesn't seem to oil (bar gets hot and chain super tight) when the oil is below 3/4 full and you roll it clutch side down to cut a stump off. Once it cools chain loosens up to how it was.
Any advice? I'm kinda stumped which is why I started looking at a new "cheap/beater saw"
zogger
Tree Freak
Oil pickup line loose and able to flop down into the tank? Sounds like it is kinked up and stuck, turned around and up to the top of the tank or something like that. If anything, the saw should oil better once it is warmed up, not start oiling worse.
Brian B.
ArboristSite Operative
From what I understood all three, but the 45cc is a copy of the G5000av, again, just from what I have read here.
make sure the pressure line is at the top of the tank, sounds like you have them reversed.
diggers_dad
Sawchologist
The Earthquake 41 cc is a NON strato version of the Ryobi 10532. The 10532 is a Redmax with Ryobi plastics. Pop off the plastic on a Ryobi and the engine is the strato charged Zenoah.
MOST of the parts will change between the Redmax, Ryobi, Earthquake, Power Horse, etc... They are copying the version Redmax was marketing before the strato came out. I believe that will be the G3800, G4000 and G5000. I am told when Redmax changed their lettering to include "Z" it indicated the strato saw. GZ3800, etc. I do not have a Redmax, I am basing my belief on the parts breakdowns of the Zenoah engine rather than the brand of company that sold the saw. The 45 cc Quake is a copy of the G5000 with smaller displacement.
In my parts swapping / changing / tinkering with these little saws the area of largest variation seems to be in and around the oiler. Zenoah used a cast metal oiler in both adjustable and non-adjustable styles. Ryobi used the same; Craftsman used plastic, Quakes use plastic, etc. and some of the gearing and sizing is slightly different.
Hope that helps!
dd
Thanks, it does clarify things some. Being a strato saw is a good part of what makes the Redmaxes and Ryobi 10532 the little screamers they are, but it is a mixed blessing. The strato components are fairly fragile (the insulator with it's rotary valve and actuating lever) and are expensive to replace if they break. They run great when they are running right, but the carb and insulator are designed to work together in such a way that one won't work without the other and they are close to $60 each to replace, so you are $120 in the hole if you have to replace both parts of the assembly.
The 4018 Wild Thing has a similar weak point in the actuating lever for it's strato. That little black lever almost always splits where it attaches to the shaft running thru the carb, then the rotary valve for the strato won't open fully and the saw runs like crap. If you don't know what's going on you just think your saw runs like crap, when the reason is obvious when you see it. Of the 5 4018 Wild Things I've examined, that lever was partially or completely broken on every one. I fabricated my own to solve that problem and the saw runs very well again.
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dschroeder
ArboristSite Operative
They're in the correct place and the pickup is free to "flop". What would cause it to just drain oil after the tank is filled?
Gravity?
