The most expensive thing I ever learned about a chainsaw…

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Unless you know what you are doing, chainsaws are usually mistreated. It even takes time on one to know how to even listen to it and feed it into the wood in a way that’s not bad for the engine. Sometimes it takes years to “get it”. I cut with people all the time that have had their saws for years and they don’t know how to use them and care for them.
 
Unless you know what you are doing, chainsaws are usually mistreated. It even takes time on one to know how to even listen to it and feed it into the wood in a way that’s not bad for the engine. Sometimes it takes years to “get it”. I cut with people all the time that have had their saws for years and they don’t know how to use them and care for them.

To do this right, stick with a brand. I ran a stihl and a husky for a year til I decided I was a Stihl guy, sold the Husky and never looked back.
 
I have a few builds that cost me way more than they are worth. The most expensive lesson, don't buy cheap chicom crap to put on a good saw unless its the absolute only option.
There are user saws and collector saws. I have several user saws that work very well with aftermarket parts. The collector saws should be kept original if possible. Don't think I have any saws that I wouldn't take out and use so I guess all my saws are users. Chicom parts do lower the value of a saw when you try to sell it though..
 
I have a few builds that cost me way more than they are worth. The most expensive lesson, don't buy cheap chicom crap to put on a good saw unless its the absolute only option.

IMO, most of the cost of saws is in the engineering. Whereas most of the profit (dealer+manufacturer) is in making the user-Phookups right again.

There is a desert offroad recover channel on YouTube, and Matt is constantly pulling rented SxSs out of a ditch or off a rocky mountainside, that are at or are very near completely destroyed. Looks like big bucks are in the repair of these rented and abused machines. People don't know, and why should they, that these machines are not indestructible. In fact quite the opposite. Roll overs, broken sway bars, twisted, bent, and broken about everything else, etc. is not something you intuitively know after a few minutes of driving.
 
To do this right, stick with a brand. I ran a stihl and a husky for a year til I decided I was a Stihl guy, sold the Husky and never looked back.
Nah, I think if you do that you form prejudice and miss out on good saws. The main brands all make some really good ones and some turds. I’m just the opposite. I started out hard on Stihl Koolaid and now I’m mostly partial to Husqy and Echo.
 
Must have 2 saws! Back in the early days, when I had only my ms290, I blued the clutch and smoked the bar, trying to cut to it out of a pinch. I got it out. I was pretty green in my knowledge of saws, and that was a good lesson.
Must have two saws you can start! 30 years ago, I had a new husqvarna 51 and an old homelite xl925.
I got the 51 stuck in a maple I shouldn't even tried to cut with it. By the time I got the old xl925 out and up on the hill I was so worn out I couldn't get the **** thing to start. Sent my wife to town to by another saw. Since we lived 45 minutes from town by the time, she was back I had caught my breath enough to start that old homelite and finish the job.
Now that I have 30 or so saws that start its harder to send the wife to town to keep her out of the way.
 
Must have two saws you can start! 30 years ago, I had a new husqvarna 51 and an old homelite xl925.
I got the 51 stuck in a maple I shouldn't even tried to cut with it. By the time I got the old xl925 out and up on the hill I was so worn out I couldn't get the **** thing to start. Sent my wife to town to by another saw. Since we lived 45 minutes from town by the time, she was back I had caught my breath enough to start that old homelite and finish the job.
Now that I have 30 or so saws that start its harder to send the wife to town to keep her out of the way.
Geez... I've got a couple female neighbors that want to help me clean up the ice storm damage. Today the dentist's wife came out while I took down the serious hazards. The woman on the other side of the fence just sent me her schedule and is baking me cookies too... she wants to help with the rest of the clean up. Who knew a saw would be a chick magnet... I know puppies are. 😉
 
I used to have a lot of issues with bar life. Cutting dry mesquite that’s in sandyland and has sand in it. I would have a bar groove worn so wide a new chain lays over in under 20 cord. Tried all sorts of bars and just settled on running cheapies or stuff I found on sale. I was spending $500 plus a year on bars. When I was running 036 and 360 saws I’d spend more on bars than the saw by the time I was done with it.
A few years ago I learned a trick on here about starting with .050 bar and chain and working my way up to .063. Well that little trick has saved me a grand or more that last couple years. I’ve been buying tsumura bars and getting over 100 cords out of one now. It lasts a really long time at .058.
I don’t remember who told me to do that, but if I would have known that when I started cutting wood I’d have saved 10k easy.
I really wish that my massive stack of “worn out” Stihl duramatic .050 bars was still in the shop at my grandmothers and I’d never have to buy a bar again. But they made it the scrap yard at some point.
You must cut a sh!tload of wood!!!! Did you ever use a bar rail grinder or flat file them? Loose ,dull chains and thin viscosity bar oil can reduce life...my guy's smoke through bar's because of this and bend them almost weekly.... proper chain tension, sharpening and oiling go a long way for me. Most of the times they say it's bent, it's because they smoked the rails cutting with a loose dull chain not oiling properly....I dress the bar on my rail grinder and it's legit...
 
Must have two saws you can start! 30 years ago, I had a new husqvarna 51 and an old homelite xl925.
I got the 51 stuck in a maple I shouldn't even tried to cut with it. By the time I got the old xl925 out and up on the hill I was so worn out I couldn't get the **** thing to start. Sent my wife to town to by another saw. Since we lived 45 minutes from town by the time, she was back I had caught my breath enough to start that old homelite and finish the job.
Now that I have 30 or so saws that start its harder to send the wife to town to keep her out of the way.
Reminds me of my first McCulloch saw, a 1-42 or 1-43, something like that. By the time I got it started I really was too tired to cut any wood. That was before I was into working on saws. I bought another one later that was just like it but it started very easily..
 
Expensive?? A neighbor hired a backhoe guy to dig a trench so that he could run a power wire to his shed,,,
When the backhoe guy found out what he needed, he went to the cab of his truck,,

He pulled out a chainsaw,, and cut a thin slot,, just big enough for the wire.

When he was done, he said a new bar and chain were less costly than unloading the backhoe,,,,,,,,,,,,, :eek:
 
Expensive?? A neighbor hired a backhoe guy to dig a trench so that he could run a power wire to his shed,,,
When the backhoe guy found out what he needed, he went to the cab of his truck,,

He pulled out a chainsaw,, and cut a thin slot,, just big enough for the wire.

When he was done, he said a new bar and chain were less costly than unloading the backhoe,,,,,,,,,,,,, :eek:
I’ve actually seen someone do this as well. They use a sacrificial bar and chain. They did it for an underground electrical fence. Regardless of the bar and chain, I don’t think they realize how abrasive all that dirt and mud is on the clutch drum, bearing, and everything else under the clutch cover. Nuts!
 
Expensive?? A neighbor hired a backhoe guy to dig a trench so that he could run a power wire to his shed,,,
When the backhoe guy found out what he needed, he went to the cab of his truck,,

He pulled out a chainsaw,, and cut a thin slot,, just big enough for the wire.

When he was done, he said a new bar and chain were less costly than unloading the backhoe,,,,,,,,,,,,, :eek:
I guess a .404 would be best for this..
 
Expensive?? A neighbor hired a backhoe guy to dig a trench so that he could run a power wire to his shed,,,
When the backhoe guy found out what he needed, he went to the cab of his truck,,

He pulled out a chainsaw,, and cut a thin slot,, just big enough for the wire.

When he was done, he said a new bar and chain were less costly than unloading the backhoe,,,,,,,,,,,,, :eek:
Years ago on a wildfire in BC the duff layer was so thick the lightweight hand tools they gave us to use wouldn't get through to the soil to make decent fireline. It's like the heads of them were cast from recycled beer cans! The saw team turned their chains backwards and cut rolls of duff 3' wide and the diggers came behind to roll it away like thick sod. It was the only way to quickly get to the dirt. Us teams from region 3 work differently than the guys in BC.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top