Vertical Shaft wood splitter?

[avalancher]

I recently found an almost brand new Briggs 12.5 hp electric start vertical shaft engine on CL for 50 bucks, and have been considering building a new splitter using this to power a 16GPM pump, but I am having a time finding a bracket to mount the pump with.I noticed a lot of the MTD, Troy Built splitters have vertical shaft engines, but the bolt pattern is different than what is on the Briggs.
Anyone have any suggestions as to where you can find a vertical shaft bracket?NT doesnt have a listing for one, and I have done a google search without any luck.
Any disadvantages to a vertical shaft engine vs a horizontal?
How big of a pump can you power with a 12.5 hp?

 

[leon]

engines smengines/petrol junkies

I recently found an almost brand new Briggs 12.5 hp electric start vertical shaft engine on CL for 50 bucks, and have been considering building a new splitter using this to power a 16GPM pump, but I am having a time finding a bracket to mount the pump with.I noticed a lot of the MTD, Troy Built splitters have vertical shaft engines, but the bolt pattern is different than what is on the Briggs.
Anyone have any suggestions as to where you can find a vertical shaft bracket?NT doesnt have a listing for one, and I have done a google search without any luck.
Any disadvantages to a vertical shaft engine vs a horizontal?
How big of a pump can you power with a 12.5 hp?

Avalancher,

greetings and salutations from my corner of the soon to be frozen

"Eastern Wilderness @1140 feet above mean sea level".


You did not mention whether the engine has the four equidistant

holes in the crankcase casting for a stand off pump bracket and

lovejoy coupler.


First obtain the type number, serial number, series number, code

number on the fan housing then:


First stop :The Briggs and Stratton web site"

And then look up the model number of the engine and look further

down the listings for all the different model types and options

BUUUUUUUUUUUUT if the engine in question does not have the

four equally spaced drilled holes in the crankcase casting

surounding the crankshaft for a pump bracket and "Lovejoy

coupler" it will not be possible to mount a bracket anyway.

leon :agree2:

 

[darren_nh]

I can't help on the bracket, but these guy's say a 22gpm will run on 12hp.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008112508551019&item=9-4896&catname=hydraulic

 

[avalancher]

You did not mention whether the engine has the four holes in the crankcase casting for a stand off pump bracket and lovejoy coupler.

First obtain the type number, serial number, series number, code number on the fan housing then:

Never mind NT

First stop :The Briggs and Stratton web site"

And then look up the model number of the engine and look further

down the listings for all the different model types and options

BUUUUUUUUUUUUT

if the engine in question does not have the four equally spaced

drilled holes in the crankcase casting surounding the crankshaft

four a pump bracket and lovejoy coupler it will not be possible to

mount a bracket anyway.

leon :agree2:

Thanks for the advise. How about making your own bolt pattern by bolting the engine to a piece of plate with the existing bolt holes,then drilling the four holes for the pump bracket?
hate to scrap this project already, the engine is absolutly mint.

 

[leon]

log splitter, ugh!

Thanks for the advise. How about making your own bolt pattern by bolting the engine to a piece of plate with the existing bolt holes,then drilling the four holes for the pump bracket?
hate to scrap this project already, the engine is absolutly mint.

The problem is alignment; a trip to a local machine shop wil get you what you need as the entire mounting has to be linear and adding brackets that are not factory spec or designed for it are asking for trouble simply due to vibration and centrifugal forces generated by the coupler if it is not aligned properly.


Look at the Briggs and Stratton web site with your engine numbers in hand as it is really the only way to get the proper brackets and couplers.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Don't know if this helps

Speeco uses a similar Briggs set up on their 35 ton machine. I don't know if the coupling and adapter will mate with your engine but it might be worth a trip to Tractor Supply, if there's one around, or a call to Speeco and see what you can find out.
May be able to pick up everything you need to couple in;

Or then again maybe not.

Take Care

 

[Mike Van]

I'll get a pic. later today of my Didier - It uses a Lovejoy with a simple angle bracket, not 4 tapped holes on the engine. O.K., here's a pic. Mine's a horizontal, but the same type bracket for the pump is all you'd need for a vertical. I made one years back for my truck crane.

Some fairly simple machine / welding or drilling. Mount the vert. engine on top of your base, your pump bracket will work better under the base if you use slotted holes where it goes under the engine, if you need some small adjustment, you can get it. May take a little to get it the right length, etc. but it's do-able for sure.

 

[dawzie]

How about belt driven?? The people at Grainger Supply helped me on figuring pulley sizes needed for rpm and h.p.

 

[brisawyer]

I built mine from plate and box tubing. I have acesss to a machine shop so it was easy to get the alignment right. I can get pics and a good description if you are interested. There is a pic of it in the 45 ton splitter thread. I may even still have the alignment tool I will look fri.

 

[nitro]

tractor suppy ,and northern tool both have the mounts
I put a 12hp ohv snow blower motor with electric start for 50 bucks and then had to upgrade my pump to 16 gpm to lower my laptimes
JUST DO IT .....

 

[NYHuskyguy]

Be careful when trying to set up a log splitter. What you really want to make sure of is that the crankshaft comes out the side and not the bottom. The big difference in the two is substantial.

The problem with the shaft coming out the bottom is that it wears on the seals immediately. The weight of the pump is ALWAYS too much for the seals to bear. That is why places like tractor supply have splitters that are so much cheaper than say, an Iron and Oak. Splitters with the shaft out the side are not built for longevity. In fact most of those are simply just lawn mower engines.

If you want to buy a splitter that will last, make sure the crankshaft comes out the side. This is of course, provided that you can make that it happen that way. If you have no other choice, than that is your situation.

If you can help it, get yourself a little sideways!

-Kevin

 

[RON58]

Bull ####

If ya do it right with the proper mount you'll have no problems.The properly set up pump,motor and mount will place NO load on the seals.All the splitters we use have split mountains of wood and the seals are dryer than a popcorn fart.If ya got use it.

 

[NYHuskyguy]

If ya do it right with the proper mount you'll have no problems.The properly set up pump,motor and mount will place NO load on the seals.All the splitters we use have split mountains of wood and the seals are dryer than a popcorn fart.If ya got use it.

For sure if you set it up right, anything will work. I agree 100% as long as there is no load on the shaft or the seals, you should be fine.

 

[Bowtie]

Are you implying that the pump just hangs from the motor? Ya, that will trash a pump quick. My vertical shaft Briggs spins a 13.6 pump bolted to a steel bracket I made. I have split countless cords of wood with it.

Plus, vertical shaft engines are cheap and plentiful.

 

[NYHuskyguy]

Yea I am. I sell splitters and have customers come to me after going to Tractor Supply. Almost all of them over there are free hanging. CRAP!!! If you support it, then you SHOULD be fine, buuuut I dunno.

 

[Locoweed]

Be careful when trying to set up a log splitter. What you really want to make sure of is that the crankshaft comes out the side and not the bottom. The big difference in the two is substantial.

The problem with the shaft coming out the bottom is that it wears on the seals immediately. The weight of the pump is ALWAYS too much for the seals to bear. That is why places like tractor supply have splitters that are so much cheaper than say, an Iron and Oak. Splitters with the shaft out the side are not built for longevity. In fact most of those are simply just lawn mower engines.

If you want to buy a splitter that will last, make sure the crankshaft comes out the side. This is of course, provided that you can make that it happen that way. If you have no other choice, than that is your situation.

If you can help it, get yourself a little sideways!

-Kevin

 

[NYHuskyguy]

Hey Russ,

If I am full of it, let me know what should have been said differently. I sell these things and this is what a professional would tell you about them.

Thanks.

-Kevin

 

[kevin j]

so, are you seeing vert shaft motors with pumps hanging down free, with some sort of torque arm on them, but no fixed mout bracket?
Like the old PTO add on pumps for old farm tractors?
Then I could see the side load destroying pumps and I would agree.
But if mounted properly on a rigid bracket, and coupling alignment good, no difference to the pump.

Belt drives, no way. Bearings aren't strong enough.

Lots of V twin, 10-15 hp, electric start junked lawn tractors out there cheap.

kcj

 

[tanker]

so, are you seeing vert shaft motors with pumps hanging down free, with some sort of torque arm on them, but no fixed mout bracket?
Like the old PTO add on pumps for old farm tractors?
Then I could see the side load destroying pumps and I would agree.
But if mounted properly on a rigid bracket, and coupling alignment good, no difference to the pump.

Belt drives, no way. Bearings aren't strong enough.

Lots of V twin, 10-15 hp, electric start junked lawn tractors out there cheap.

kcj

exactly 100% right.My next splitter that i build will have a vertical engine just because of the price difference. Scott

 

[NYHuskyguy]

For sure, they are a lot cheaper. What I was trying to say was that most of the splitters (with the vertical shaft) that you encounter do not have ANY type of support for the pumps. They just hang there. Those are the cheap ones and most people that work with them would consider them disposable. If you build some type of bracket for them, as long as supports it, you should be fine. My only concern other than that would be to use some type of anti-vibe pad to ease the stress on the machine further. That is if you are going to build it yourself.