Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
So I was in my basement removing old gasket material from several parts on an old Homelite 9-23, which was made from 1959 to 1960. For whatever reason, this specific gasket material was fighting me more than usual, and was extremely difficult to get off. In fact, I'm not done removing all of it yet.

Anyways, I got to thinking while I was down there fighting with the gasket material... This last summer, I did demolition work, and learned a lot about asbestos.

After a little research, the gasket material I was trying to remove is more than likely 70%-80% pure asbestos. In fact, almost all gaskets used in engines before the 1980's is more than likely asbestos of some sort. More than likely all of us on here have been exposed to asbestos when we remove old gaskets from our chainsaws and other vintage engines for that matter.

Sweet.

Brings to mind the question; what's the best (or safest) way to remove old asbestos gasket material?
Soak it with water to prevent the asbestos from becoming airborn?
Do it in a well-vented area?
Respirator?
Maybe I'm just over concerned?
[emoji848]
 
You would likely have to sand those gaskets off 8 hours a day to get enough airborne particles to cause any concern. I would also guess that the asbestos content is actually pretty low. Lastly, to be an inhalation hazard the particle have to be quite small and floating in the air; I think you are over concerned about a small issue.

Have a look at the article in the link below, my quick perusal makes me believe that a mechanic scraping gaskets for 8 hours a day is still exposed to 1/10 of the PEL (Permissible Exposure Level).

http://health.usf.edu/cms_author/do...sessment-asbestos-exposure-auto-mechanics.pdf

Mark
 
You would likely have to sand those gaskets off 8 hours a day to get enough airborne particles to cause any concern. I would also guess that the asbestos content is actually pretty low. Lastly, to be an inhalation hazard the particle have to be quite small and floating in the air; I think you are over concerned about a small issue.

Have a look at the article in the link below, my quick perusal makes me believe that a mechanic scraping gaskets for 8 hours a day is still exposed to 1/10 of the PEL (Permissible Exposure Level).

http://health.usf.edu/cms_author/do...sessment-asbestos-exposure-auto-mechanics.pdf

Mark

Thanks Mark, I looked that article over, very good information. I should probably be more concerned about the larger amounts of asbestos I was exposed to while at work LOL.
 
Wonder how much I've inhaled over the years scraping and grinding gaskets off and blowing off brake pads and shoes.

Steve
Couldn't count how many coal burning, octopus looking, asbestos wrapped furnaces I've torn out. And they must go out in pieces cuz they built the houses around em in the days past.
 
Right now I am starting to see original Sony Walkman's and other Japanese consumer electronics from the 70's and 80's on sale at silly prices. Whether or not there are buyers the word will spread these things are worth "tons of money" and I will have a good laugh: too bad my JVC boombox died a few years back otherwise i'd have a goldmine on my hands.
Good to know i still have a solar powered Sony Walkman time to sell it and buy a 166 with the money:envy:
 
What is the difference between the RK-88 and RK-98 other than price?
They look identical...

Those HL kits can be confusing. Like Kensie said the length of the seat is the main difference in this case. To make it simple just consider the shorter seat a Stihl HL kit as that is what I have found they mostly fit.

The longer seat fits most all the other HL carbs. The difference in most the others were what needle and seat were used, and they used several different combinations. As long as you use all the matching needle, seat and lever from the kit you get you will be ok.


Rubber seats with plastic flat top needles with flat levers, rubber seats with flat top aluminum needles with flat levers. There were also rubber seats with aluminum needles that used a slotted lever to hook the needle and is actually what a RK-88 kit is suppose to use. If you notice a lot of aftermarket HL kits are being advertised as replacing a 88 kit even though they don't have the exact style needle and seat they 88 kit came with.

Later kits used a brass seat with a viton tipped needle and slotted lever. As long as you use the complete seat, needle and lever from the later type kit they will work just fine in all the older carbs that I have run across. I actually think the viton tipped needle with the slotted lever is the best option.

Someone a few post back asked about paying $25 for a HL kit. Oh hell no, way too much, you can get OEM Tillotson kits for $15 most the time from a dealer even.

Myself I have been using a so called RK-88HL kit from a ebay seller for less then $10 a kit and they have been working great so far. The problem I have found is after the old saws set for a while, the rubber seat/flat top needles will stick sometimes and the viton tipped needles with the slotted levers don't seem to have that problem.

This is the kit I have been using and like I said, I have not found a non Stihl HL carb that they won't work in yet.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HOMELITE-C...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
 
Well I hope they like it, and if someone did pay $2225 for that super 33 then they have way more money than brains, you usually don't even see that kind of money even if it's NOS, it's fools like that which will ruin our hobby.

I could even see sellers creating fake eBay accounts just to bid their items up to drive up the value of those saws.

Now we will see an influx of 33 style saws on eBay for outrageous prices with the "one just sold on eBay for over $2000" irritating...

Anyway rant over lol

Agreed. I'm highly skeptical about this one. A Super 33? Yeah right, I have gave those things away and most the time you can't swing a dead cat around without hitting one.

It would not surprise me in the least to see it relisted because of a non paying bidder. :laugh: Seen it happen too many times.

If that auction was on the up and up, I would like to meet the guy who gave that for that polished turd and offer him my BP-1. :ices_rofl:
 
Oohhh, the mismatched needle/seat on my HL carb may be the reason I've had the issues I've been having on my mac 250. I never changed the seat because i needed to modify a socket which I haven't found time for yet. Thanks!
 
Agreed. I'm highly skeptical about this one. A Super 33? Yeah right, I have gave those things away and most the time you can't swing a dead cat around without hitting one.

It would not surprise me in the least to see it relisted because of a non paying bidder. [emoji23] Seen it happen too many times.

If that auction was on the up and up, I would like to meet the guy who gave that for that polished turd and offer him my BP-1. :ices_rofl:
I'd like to meet the other guy who ran the bid up... And offer him some "rare" McCullochs
 
LOOKING TO SELL!
I have a couple of old saws for sale that came out of my dads shop after he passed away. He was a logger in the early 60's. Plus some other saws. Had lots of interest, but a few sales fell through because of shipping costs. Homelite, Mcculloch mini mac 25, Partner s55, Whiz, Zip, Partner. Asking $50-$100obo each. (plus shipping) BUYING THEM AS IS. I don't have time to take each of them apart to see if they run or what needs done. I know the parts off most of these are worth as much or more.

Also have a box of assorted chain and extra bars. I would like to sell the chain altogether since I don't know that much about what the differences are. I do know a couple of them are the really heavy 1/2" chain. I am willing to split up the bars if you need a particular one. I can post a few pictures, but it is best to just ask me for specific pictures. NEED TO SELL THESE!!

IMG_2779.JPG IMG_2797.JPG IMG_2816.JPG IMG_2879.JPG IMG_2897.JPG IMG_2912.JPG IMG_3241.JPG
 
LOOKING TO SELL!
I have a couple of old saws for sale that came out of my dads shop after he passed away. He was a logger in the early 60's. Plus some other saws. Had lots of interest, but a few sales fell through because of shipping costs. Homelite, Mcculloch mini mac 25, Partner s55, Whiz, Zip, Partner. Asking $50-$100obo each. (plus shipping) BUYING THEM AS IS. I don't have time to take each of them apart to see if they run or what needs done. I know the parts off most of these are worth as much or more.

Also have a box of assorted chain and extra bars. I would like to sell the chain altogether since I don't know that much about what the differences are. I do know a couple of them are the really heavy 1/2" chain. I am willing to split up the bars if you need a particular one. I can post a few pictures, but it is best to just ask me for specific pictures. NEED TO SELL THESE!!

View attachment 634692 View attachment 634693 View attachment 634694 View attachment 634696 View attachment 634697 View attachment 634698 View attachment 634699
This type of content should probably be posted in the Trading Post...
Just sayin'
 
LOOKING TO SELL!
I have a couple of old saws for sale that came out of my dads shop after he passed away. He was a logger in the early 60's. Plus some other saws. Had lots of interest, but a few sales fell through because of shipping costs. Homelite, Mcculloch mini mac 25, Partner s55, Whiz, Zip, Partner. Asking $50-$100obo each. (plus shipping) BUYING THEM AS IS. I don't have time to take each of them apart to see if they run or what needs done. I know the parts off most of these are worth as much or more.

I think most of us have seen these in the trading post and it’s generally frowned upon at the least to sell outside of it.
 
Back
Top