Oil technology, just like chainsaw technology, continues to evolve. Otherwise we would still be cutting down trees with fifty pound chainsaws running on 30W non detergent oil at 16:1 ratio.
I now have 7 chainsaws, as well as a number of other 2 stroke pieces of equipment. I did my due diligence and read up as much as possible before I went and bought these pieces of equipment.
I wanted to do my due diligence before I decided what oil I wanted to use in all my equipment.
In the past several months I have read hundreds, if not thousands of threads on oil. Here, on BITOG, and on various motorcycle forums. If I might sound insane this was the cause of it. Oil threads can take on a religious fervor. However, pearls of wisdom can be extracted from the endless howling. Peer reviewed technical papers and scientific testing can point you in certain directions. Racers pushing the outer limits can point you in certain directions. People working on 2 cycle engines regularly can make observations and point you in certain directions. In the end I made certain inferences as to what will serve MY purposes, and I emphasize MY purposes. If my inferences don't serves your purposes, move on. My intent is to make my saws work as efficiently as possible for as long as possible.
30W non detergent motor oil was used initially because it was what was available. Bright stock was utilized and more effective add packages were developed. 2 cycle mineral based oils evolved to the point where they performed very well. However, at this point in time nothing can convince me not to use full synthetic oils. Synthetics can be finely tune to the performance levels at hand.
Chainsaws are a marvel of modern engineering. Working chainsaws, as opposed to racing saws, have relatively mild performance as compared to the hyper performance race machines that run on exotic fuels at stratospheric speeds. Working saws are used every day and are only broken down when they need work. Racing machines are expected to produce maximum output for the length of a race and are then torn down and rebuilt. I can't see myself cutting wood all day and then spending every night rebuilding my saw. That is why I believe using the ultra high end racing oils in working chain saws may be counter productive.
Water cooled outboard engines run at lower ring temperatures and use oil tuned for that purpose. Air cooled working chainsaws run at higher ring temperatures and need add packages that are tuned to that purpose. Racing machines run at the razors edge and need the absolute highest performance oils. That is where the problem lies. I believe that the combustion temperature of the ultra racing oils that are designed to run in racing machines that spin at 23,000 RPM are too high for a chainsaw that is mildly tuned and spins at 13,000 RPM.
I have 4 liters of Motul 800 2t Off Road, 4 liters of Motul 710 2t, 1 liter of Maxima K2, and 1 liter of Bel-Ray H1R.
The RC test confirmed some beliefs I hold in regards to oil. What I can't got my head wrapped around is the fact that H1R used 15% more fuel to produce the same work. I think that H1R is at the point of burning at too high a level to be efficient in mildly tuned saws. I think that a premium ester based oil that burns at a lower level and adds to the combustion efficiency would suit my ultimate purposes.
As it stands now, I believe that either Motul 710 2t or Maxima K2 would be my best option for MY, and I emphasize MY, purposes.
I may get into studying this further or I may simply cut wood for the next 20 years and not give a ****.
As for ratios, from what I can see more oil still provides better ring seal and more power. To a point at the cost of increased consequences. Ultimately I believe I will be running at 32:1 or 40:1 (3% or 2.5%).
These are my opinions. If they contradict your opinions please don't take it as a challenge. Do what you want.
RonL
