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I believe all Contras had that Sparkpklug layout, could be wrong though, only way to tell the difference is to measure the cylinder. Looks to be an early model going by the big rear handle and the fuel cap. Its got an interesting air filter set-up too. Cant remember ever seeing anything like...

Personally i like to grind the ends of the old rivets off them press them out with a pin punch or the like. Once youy have the new tip on just hammer the new rivets (3) flat. I like to use the round part on a Bell Pein hammer. seems to get it nice and flush. As for knowing what tip to get, ask...

I use them, less strain on the starter mechanism, easier to start when your in the scrub. Also a bit easier on my dodgy shoulders!

Could be this, other option is that it used to be a TS760 and its been converted to the saw (hence no manual oiler). Dont think its an 050, 051, wrong starter housing. Had a customer wanted his converted, unfortunaltely parts in aus are EXPENSIVE, would have cost him more than a new 660!!!

Take it back to the dealer, they did have an issue with manufacturing them early, they replaced them under warranty as far as im aware. They are much better now.

I have a 009, basically the same saw, really like it with the 14" bar. These saws came with an option of two different types of chain, 3/8" LP and .325". These saws IMO run better with the 3/8" chain. I use the new Full Chisel LP chain that stihl have brought out.

Depends on the conditions that your cutting in. I'd say where you are the older HD filter will do fine. If your in dry very dusty conditions a HD2 filter is a must. Thats why Pro Stihl saws in Oz all come with them now. They filter the fine dry dust particles out much better (that's also why...

They still rotate around 3K a minute, surely that would move quite a bit of air through the spaces between engine and any covers on it?

This one followed me home today. Complete Freebie. Cylinder really good. only very light marks. Piston skirts bit worn, have new oem Piston that will slot straight in, (also free, had it a while). main issue is botom end. quite sloppy, bearings grinding very audibly. so apart she...

Early 024, only came with one bar stud. Mine is the same. Mine also has exactly the same fuel filler cap.

010/011/012av, all much the same build. Slight differences in top ends.

361, hands down.

I would also start by removing the bar and checking the sprocket nose, if not then return to the saw. Try to remove the drive sprocket, if that comes off then it's probably something in the spring assy. There's a few screws and a side cover comes off, the chain brake assy is under that.

Not bad saws if In good condition. Not really suitable for that size bar though.

Stihl MS311/391 would be my go to. Range between 1099/1199. Powerful enough to Pull the 20" bar and 3/8" chain they come standard with. Find a decent dealer and they'll look after you, parts readily available nation wide and relatively cheap. Wouldn't go makita/dolmar at all, may be different...

No, much cheaper to buy or make a new one, rather do that than have machine busted up and needing to pull apart and spend MORE money on it.

A lot of chainsaw manufacturers don't make their own bearings, many are a commonly used and mass produced size/type. There are a few that have odd ones so make sure it's not, if you go 'aftermarket' make sure it's a well known reputable bearing manufacturer.

+1 on the drain saw side. Fuel just isn't what it used to be, the ethanol being added now doesn't help to much either. We now advise all our customers that if they're not going to use their machines in two weeks, drain it. Personally I'm not yet sold on fuel stabilizers.

+2 definitely fuel related. Hard to see that being a coil/spark issue.

First 4 numbers of a part # probably won't help you in this case, 044's, 046's and the 440's460's all share the same 'family' number of 1128. Post up a picture, most of the guys on here will be able to tell just by looking at it what model you've got! Good luck with it!