Sounds like you oughta borrow @HuskStihl's wife too066 with 235 is still easier to pull than a 288 with 235 or a 2100 with 190. They feel locked up and it was stock with a base gasket.
Sounds like you oughta borrow @HuskStihl's wife too066 with 235 is still easier to pull than a 288 with 235 or a 2100 with 190. They feel locked up and it was stock with a base gasket.
I've been looking for 90cc's. A 288 popped up on cl a month ago. Might jump on the next one. Wanted an 066 but their owners don't wanna part with them.One of those 288s is his now[emoji2]
Kinda like an 088 with 190066 with 235 is still easier to pull than a 288 with 235 or a 2100 with 190. They feel locked up and it was stock with a base gasket.
For good reasonI've been looking for 90cc's. A 288 popped up on cl a month ago. Might jump on the next one. Wanted an 066 but their owners don't wanna part with them.
I've got a logger friend with a dozen 385 through 395xp's. All with "logger damage". I could probably get him to come off 1 of them but I'd feel inclined to paint it red. Or at least spray a little white on it.For good reason
Thanks, there's a lot of good info in this thread and I've learned a ton about the 066. If you've got some patients and time it ain't to bad to make a runner out of an 066. Lots of good people on here willing to help, that's a good part of the reason my saw runs the way it does.I've been following this thread since it started. Checking it out several times daily. I've learned a lot. Thanks to all those that have contributed to it. I'd like to say something to Deets066, that 066 is awesome. You did an amazing job on it and thank you for showing the "finished" product. Makes me want to get my 066 out and play again but after seeing how yours runs I'm afraid I'd have to start messing with mine again.
There are so many threads similar to this that the "finished" product is never shown. Thank you for showing your results. Again awesome job on that saw.
Just a little higher ..............I believe the one mike did for mopar is pushin 225
Aint that the truth !!!!I don't use compression releases either, just one more thing to fail.
Good thing about it, my friends can't borrow it if they can't start it.
So is there any instance where you'd want or accept LESS cranking compression?
I've done and own a few Husky's i can get close to 220 but I can't keep a stihl starter together long enough to get that high.
Velocity should directly effect transfer height but it's something haven't messed with enough to know which would be best. I'd like to get my 066 right alongside Mopar's and do someSo is there any instance where you'd want or accept LESS cranking compression?
I guess it's a trade off between time/area and case compression. Seem like you'd always want the most case compression possible provided it didn't restrict overall intake duration and flow.
Second question. More case compression should make the existing transfers flow faster. So to would you run LOWER upper transfers (higher numerically) if you had better case compression? I see that they'd fill the combustion chamber faster, so they'd need less time to do so.
All theories go out the window if they don't work in real life though. That 066 is mean, mean, mean.
A Dyno at each GTG would really put us all closer together.Velocity should directly effect transfer height but it's something haven't messed with enough to know which would be best. I'd like to get my 066 right alongside Mopar's and do some
We have 2 very similar ported saws ................ mine having more compression and a different transferr number. My other one (in progress) will have its compression closer to yours with the same numbers I have now. It will be easy for me to see which one of my two is best with a 36" and .404 setup ........................... but I also want to get our saws in the same wood.Velocity should directly effect transfer height but it's something haven't messed with enough to know which would be best. I'd like to get my 066 right alongside Mopar's and do some
Sh!t I doubt I could pull that thing over. I would like to run it after you start it for me though.Wasn't talkin bout you Ted! You can borrow it whenever you want. As long as I get to run that piped 066 of yours
I'm sure if you guys didn't mind the shipping I could find a piece of wood to run them with 34-50" bars in. Might be able to work this out later this fall.
I think in small wood the lower compression more free spinning saw would win. In bigger wood compression seems to be king.
Compression is grunt power.
Don't pull lightly on this starter rope, 32" of full comp furry.
1/3 of the key is leaving power on the table. I've messed with timing a lot and found especially on a aluminum flywheel saw that the farther u go the more it likes it, my 64 is just a dab farther than the key. A 660 I don't go that far, more like 7/8 of the key. A saw I build for a customer I don't advance it that far although I don't know why I've never cn a problem with it. I had a 288 that was 200psi and it was hard to start my 084 is around 190 and it's very hard to start but they all fail in comparison to my old 5200 poulan, i would love to know how much compression it has but the starters are junk, it had monster compression stock but after machine work it's almost unstartable, it will start the first pull but however long u run it you will b doing it with the pull rope hanging out. I have never handed my 084 to anybody that could start it, even after I tell them, it will violently remove the handle from there hand.You advance timing a whole key!? I usually do 1/3
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