066/MS 660 port #'s. Please share your stock #'s

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1/3 of the key is leaving power on the table. I've messed with timing a lot and found especially on a aluminum flywheel saw that the farther u go the more it likes it, my 64 is just a dab farther than the key. A 660 I don't go that far, more like 7/8 of the key. A saw I build for a customer I don't advance it that far although I don't know why I've never cn a problem with it. I had a 288 that was 200psi and it was hard to start my 084 is around 190 and it's very hard to start but they all fail in comparison to my old 5200 poulan, i would love to know how much compression it has but the starters are junk, it had monster compression stock but after machine work it's almost unstartable, it will start the first pull but however long u run it you will b doing it with the pull rope hanging out. I have never handed my 084 to anybody that could start it, even after I tell them, it will violently remove the handle from there hand.

The 066 in the previous video was 1/3 keyway and pulling the rope out of your hands. I had to put it back to stock.
 
I like the old small solid handles that came on the 064 066 I'll never have one ripped from my hand but a big elastic job like on these new saws occasionally will get me. Advancing the ignition is a huge gain, take a stock saw and only advance it, there's a huge difference. 372xp is the only saw I've cn that don't like it
 
I like the old small solid handles that came on the 064 066 I'll never have one ripped from my hand but a big elastic job like on these new saws occasionally will get me. Advancing the ignition is a huge gain, take a stock saw and only advance it, there's a huge difference. 372xp is the only saw I've cn that don't like it
I may go with a D handle when this elasto start takes a ****. And I'm guessing that won't take long.
 
I like the part about the violence and the removal of the starter from their hand.

Funny stuff and I may use that

I have gone as far as half the key but that's about all. I may try a little more without the key in place and see how it does
I really enjoy walking over to the kull pile with all my buddy's to have a race and hand one of them my 64 or 395 and watch them try to start it most of the time they never move the handle a inch, then they look at it confused and proceed to fail again, I laugh, grab my saw and start it and get all there money. Us timber men are a proud hard headed group sometimes I have to get most of there paycheck before they are convinced that there saw isn't the fastest.
 
1/3 of the key is leaving power on the table. I've messed with timing a lot and found especially on a aluminum flywheel saw that the farther u go the more it likes it, my 64 is just a dab farther than the key. A 660 I don't go that far, more like 7/8 of the key. A saw I build for a customer I don't advance it that far although I don't know why I've never cn a problem with it. I had a 288 that was 200psi and it was hard to start my 084 is around 190 and it's very hard to start but they all fail in comparison to my old 5200 poulan, i would love to know how much compression it has but the starters are junk, it had monster compression stock but after machine work it's almost unstartable, it will start the first pull but however long u run it you will b doing it with the pull rope hanging out. I have never handed my 084 to anybody that could start it, even after I tell them, it will violently remove the handle from there hand.
You're talking about 20°-30° of timing advance. In my experience, that's enough to make a saw not run at all. For example, when putting a 272 coil on a Dolmar 7900/7910, the timing is off by 20°. The saw will not run at all until that is corrected.
 
You're talking about 20°-30° of timing advance. In my experience, that's enough to make a saw not run at all. For example, when putting a 272 coil on a Dolmar 7900/7910, the timing is off by 20°. The saw will not run at all until that is corrected.
It runs just fine, u got a 64 advance it the width of the key and try it
 
With 24" bars my 371xp is the fastest saw I have, with 8 pin sprockets. I need some 9 and 10 pins to get to the power on the bigger saws.
 
Compression loves more timing. The more of one then the more of the other.
 
Just cut the rakers down to -.050 on them bigger saws. You don't need a 9
Definitely. I run a hungry chain but cutting down 050 is a tad much. I'll reword, with a work chain my 371xp is faster but now that I think I bet my 046 is. How many times have u forgot that u own a saw or ? I have a 046 and 460 that are pretty sporty
 
Run as much compression and timing as u can right up to detonating. That's why there's 116 octane race fuel.
 
Yes to keep from detonating that's it. My entire family build drag cars the only time u run less ignition is boosted or nos setups. If anybody has a vehicle with a distributer still go push the timing back and c if it runs better, there would b no need for high octane fuel if it was the other way around.
 
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