Another tool to help with firewood. High Lift Jack

[user 122190]

I've had one for years, but never used it on a tree. They can be used as a pulling device when hooked to chains, but it seems like a dangerous concept to try lifting logs with. At least not in any situation I find myself in.

I've had to cut a pinched bar out of a big cut laying horizontally in a ditch. Certainly this jack would make quick work in that situation. Chains and tree savers wrapped tightly around the log will give a good solid lift point. Just have to be extra mindful of the log rolling. A second jack on the other side, both lifting at the same time at the same pace would be ideal.

 

[snobdds]

As has been mentioned, they are excellent as a short-travel come-a-long, when used with chains. Not at all in the same league as a decent chain hoist, though.

BTW: I have always called them "farm jacks", and my peers seem to know what I am talking about.

If it's all you have, then you have to make do with it as a winch. But it's not ideal in any way.

I have used them to simply lift a log end high enough to get something under a log to cut it up. For that it works good.

 

[pdqdl]

I don't lift logs to cut them up. I use a wedge to just spread the cut and lift the logs simultaneously.

I haven't been able to find a video demonstrating this technique, so you'll just have to trust me. It works. I have lifted 4' diameter logs off the ground several inches with nothing more than a chainsaw, wedge, and sledge. And it is faster and easier than you would ever imagine until you have tried it.

Say you've got a big log that fell onto soft ground and sunk into a depression. For whatever reason, you don't want to cut down to the ground, you'd like to lift that log, and it is far too big and heavy to consider rolling over too finish the cut.

Start your cut deep enough to set the wedge safely, then finish the cut to down to where you need ground clearance. Pound in the wedge, which will separate the two log sections along the cut you have installed. This has so much force, that the ends o the log will be pressing down, and the middle of the log (where your cut is) will be lifted clear of the ground.

The only time this doesn't work is when your log is too narrow diameter to get the wedge in, or when your cut is so near one end of the log that you don't get enough lift to clear the ground obstructions. I guess if the ground is just to soft, it will not work, either.

I suppose if you are working on a big enough tree, it might not work, but they don't come that big around here. The bigger the tree, the more likely I am to make sure I don't forget to bring the wedges.

NOTE: practice your cutting techniques a bit more. It isn't essential to lift a log to cut them through all the way. You don't really think those lumberjacks cutting up the 200' tall douglas fir trees are lifting those logs with a farm-jack to buck them up, do you?

 

[pdqdl]

I've had to cut a pinched bar out of a big cut laying horizontally in a ditch.

Technique, man! You are working far too hard.

If your cut is going to close on the saw with a pinch, you can set a wedge in the top and finish the cut, as described above. Or you can also bore cut near the top, and leave a strip of holding wood. When you finish the cut at the bottom, the log just spreads out, leaving your chainsaw free of the wood. You can generally finish the holding wood at the top by using an angled cut for that last inch of wood at the top.

Myself, I prefer the bore cut method, but only because I have gotten good at it, and I don't need to worry about getting any wedges out of a tightly clamped position. Funny thing: I very seldom bore cut a tree for felling or while aloft.

 

[snobdds]

I don't lift logs to cut them up. I use a wedge to just spread the cut and lift the logs simultaneously.

I haven't been able to find a video demonstrating this technique, so you'll just have to trust me. It works. I have lifted 4' diameter logs off the ground several inches with nothing more than a chainsaw, wedge, and sledge. And it is faster and easier than you would ever imagine until you have tried it.

Say you've got a big log that fell onto soft ground and sunk into a depression. For whatever reason, you don't want to cut down to the ground, you'd like to lift that log, and it is far too big and heavy to consider rolling over to finish the cut.

Start your cut deep enough to set the wedge safely, then finish the cut to down to where you need ground clearance. Pound in the wedge, which will separate the two log sections along the cut you have installed. This has so much force, that the ends o the log will be pressing down, and the middle of the log (where your cut is) will be lifted clear of the ground.

The only time this doesn't work is when your log is too narrow diameter to get the wedge in, or when your cut is so near one end of the log that you don't get enough lift to clear the ground obstructions. I guess if the ground is just to soft, it will not work, either.

I suppose if you are working on a big enough tree, it might not work, but they don't come that big around here. The bigger the tree, the more likely I am to make sure I don't forget to bring the wedges.

NOTE: practice your cutting techniques a bit more. It isn't essential to lift a log to cut them through all the way. You don't really think those lumberjacks cutting up the 200' tall douglas fir trees are lifting those logs with a farm-jack to buck them up, do you?

My preferred tool to help with logging is my mini ex. or my small TLB. But when the pine Beatle went through, I just dropped trees. They were just everywhere and it was hard to get my equipment back in the forest to help lift things. So I did use a HI lift jack to make cutting out of the dirt easier.

 

[pdqdl]

Eh. I've got a mini-ex too, as well as other bigger equipment. Using the most efficient chainsaw techniques is usually faster than messing around with extra equipment.

I'll cut up the logs, and let the machine worry about toting them over to the truck or where ever they logs will be going. I don't think I've ever brought a big machine to a job where I was just dicing up a tree on the ground.

As far as that goes, my mini-ex isn't big enough to help very much on the deciduous trees we get around here. If I need a machine to load the logs, I'll bring something a lot faster.

 

[user 122190]

I don't lift logs to cut them up. I use a wedge to just spread the cut and lift the logs simultaneously.

I haven't been able to find a video demonstrating this technique, so you'll just have to trust me. It works. I have lifted 4' diameter logs off the ground several inches with nothing more than a chainsaw, wedge, and sledge. And it is faster and easier than you would ever imagine until you have tried it.

Say you've got a big log that fell onto soft ground and sunk into a depression. For whatever reason, you don't want to cut down to the ground, you'd like to lift that log, and it is far too big and heavy to consider rolling over to finish the cut.

Start your cut deep enough to set the wedge safely, then finish the cut to down to where you need ground clearance. Pound in the wedge, which will separate the two log sections along the cut you have installed. This has so much force, that the ends o the log will be pressing down, and the middle of the log (where your cut is) will be lifted clear of the ground.

The only time this doesn't work is when your log is too narrow diameter to get the wedge in, or when your cut is so near one end of the log that you don't get enough lift to clear the ground obstructions. I guess if the ground is just to soft, it will not work, either.

I suppose if you are working on a big enough tree, it might not work, but they don't come that big around here. The bigger the tree, the more likely I am to make sure I don't forget to bring the wedges.

NOTE: practice your cutting techniques a bit more. It isn't essential to lift a log to cut them through all the way. You don't really think those lumberjacks cutting up the 200' tall douglas fir trees are lifting those logs with a farm-jack to buck them up, do you?

All true. Also true sometimes you get a bar pinch in a large log.

 

[snobdds]

Eh. I've got a mini-ex too, as well as other bigger equipment. Using the most efficient chainsaw techniques is usually faster than messing around with extra equipment.

I'll cut up the logs, and let the machine worry about toting them over to the truck or where ever they logs will be going. I don't think I've ever brought a big machine to a job where I was just dicing up a tree on the ground.

As far as that goes, my mini-ex isn't big enough to help very much on the deciduous trees we get around here. If I need a machine to load the logs, I'll bring something a lot faster.

I let my dad pick up the log with the mini, then I just cut. When you have over a thousand dead pine trees to deal with, you find the fastest way.

It's so much faster than struggling with pinched bars and putting the chain in the dirt.

 

[ATpro]

I let my dad pick up the log with the mini, then I just cut. When you have over a thousand dead pine trees to deal with, you find the fastest way.

It's so much faster than struggling with pinched bars and putting the chain in the dirt.

That is when a Bow Bar Saw comes in handy. No pinched bars, no cutting in the dirt, and a real back saver. Bow Saw isn't for limibng or cut down but it can't be topped for bucking.

 

[trains]

I've had to cut a pinched bar out of a big cut laying horizontally in a ditch. Certainly this jack would make quick work in that situation. Chains and tree savers wrapped tightly around the log will give a good solid lift point. Just have to be extra mindful of the log rolling. A second jack on the other side, both lifting at the same time at the same pace would be ideal.

High lift is excellent for lifting the log if its moved or settled and pinched the bar, also good for lifting up the log to take stress off pieces when bucking other bits, or just to keep them out of the dirt when cutting. its a very versatile piece of kit, just be aware that any log when lifted has risk when dealing with them.
I usually clear a spot for the base of it, and make sure there is clear space to swing the handle, and position the jack firmly against the piece of tree and away you go, sometimes you need to position it on an angle to take into account the movement of the piece when it lifts, you will work it out.

 

[GenXer]

Something like this works great for what your looking to do.

 

[user 122190]

Something like this works great for what your looking to do.View attachment 1114684View attachment 1114685View attachment 1114686View attachment 1114687View attachment 1114688

Perfect. A project. Need some metal and begin welding.

 

[GenXer]

If you use the jack to lift the log, have something to go under it before cutting as they will go sideways easily with soft ground and a heavy log.

 

[user 122190]

If you use the jack to lift the log, have something to go under it before cutting as they will go sideways easily with soft ground and a heavy log.

Normally we cut, roll and finish the cut. I have in the last couple of years passed on large logs in shallow drainage ditches. Difficult to get out, impossible to roll, and I nearly always hit rock with the tip of my saw. That tool along with the jack would be the solution.

Another use would be to lift the log as pictured to cut free-hand, no jig, lumber.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Something like this works great for what your looking to do.View attachment 1114684View attachment 1114685View attachment 1114686View attachment 1114687View attachment 1114688

That looks dangerous without a secure lock in or area for the jack arm to lock in. Get some skid tongs for doing that is my best advice.

Got two 4400lb hi lift jacks and just found a knockoff that says 7700lb lift. Maybe....

Changed a lot of blown out trailer tires with this jack and lifted many logs stuffed in the dirt by cutting a square hole in one end before skidding the log out. Most times they are sideways with a bad lay so lifting the end gets things moving much easier.

 

[GenXer]

That looks dangerous without a secure lock in or area for the jack arm to lock in.

Additional safety features is up to the builder.

We just don't let the folks with no common sense use this stuff.

 

[SS396driver]

I've had to cut a pinched bar out of a big cut laying horizontally in a ditch. Certainly this jack would make quick work in that situation. Chains and tree savers wrapped tightly around the log will give a good solid lift point. Just have to be extra mindful of the log rolling. A second jack on the other side, both lifting at the same time at the same pace would be ideal.

Wedges are your friend

 

[user 122190]

Wedges are your friend View attachment 1114729

Yup. I have a great collection of wedges. Yet sometimes I miss read the log, tension or compression.

I need to get a logging belt, cause not only do I sometimes misread, but I also don't have a wedge in my back pocket. I'll usually have my friend throw me a wedge or two and the big mallet, but more often then not the wedge is in the back of the vehicle, which is a 100 to 200 feet away.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Yup. I have a great collection of wedges. Yet sometimes I miss read the log, tension or compression.

I need to get a logging belt, cause not only do I sometimes misread, but I also don't have a wedge in my back pocket. I'll usually have my friend throw me a wedge or two and the big mallet, but more often then not the wedge is in the back of the vehicle, which is a 100 to 200 feet away.

Get the short wedges. They stay in my back pocket on the ground or up top. Also kept a tiny wood wedge in my ditty bag on the saddle. That was handy when a limb starts to pinch while chunking down larger stuff. If the bar is clear and in the wood pretty deep they are very handy for undercuts. Leaves you a nice setup for a top trigger strap to drop them flat.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

I just don't see it as a substitute for a come-along. A come-along is smaller, lighter, and has a 10-12ft travel. If it has chain hooks on it you can reposition it and travel the full length of your chain plus the cable.