Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Yes. Stop drill the crack...
08S Restoration
- Thread starter blsnelling
- Start date
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Yes. Stop drill the crack...
Not much has been happening with the 08S lately. The shroud is back up in MI getting welded. And I spent the weekend installing new gears in the front diff of my '01 GMC Sierra 4x4. Another toy of mine
Tonight I took the 08S crankcase and the 030 AV down to the automotive paint store. He scanned the 08S crankcase and came up with a very close match. Since I didn't have the 08S handle, I had him scan the 030 handle. They're both the older "red", rather than the newer orange. The color came out perfect. Now I can touch up a couple chips on the 030
He sold me Urethane rather than Enamel. Said it was more durable. I bought a Dupont single-stage product. This stuff ain't cheap. I spent better than $120 on a pint of grey, a pint of red, activator/hardner, reducer, a gallon of lacquer thinner for cleanup, and three packs of wet/dry sandpaper. It should be enough for the 07S as well, whenever the Canadian Post decides to get it delivered. At least this paint job won't be destroy after the first use or two like the 045 Super was. I'll have to redo it one of these days with this paint. I was too tired to get anything done on it though.
Tonight I took the 08S crankcase and the 030 AV down to the automotive paint store. He scanned the 08S crankcase and came up with a very close match. Since I didn't have the 08S handle, I had him scan the 030 handle. They're both the older "red", rather than the newer orange. The color came out perfect. Now I can touch up a couple chips on the 030
He sold me Urethane rather than Enamel. Said it was more durable. I bought a Dupont single-stage product. This stuff ain't cheap. I spent better than $120 on a pint of grey, a pint of red, activator/hardner, reducer, a gallon of lacquer thinner for cleanup, and three packs of wet/dry sandpaper. It should be enough for the 07S as well, whenever the Canadian Post decides to get it delivered. At least this paint job won't be destroy after the first use or two like the 045 Super was. I'll have to redo it one of these days with this paint. I was too tired to get anything done on it though.
pinemartin
tightwad
the 08s top handle is magnesium and a pain to tig weld, had to go to the local weld supply house and pick up some mag rod today so it will be fixed tomorrow. If everything goes good you should have it back by this weekend
parrisw
Tree Freak
Yup that Dupont Urethane is good stuff, I used it to paint a car I restored. Cost me $500 in paint alone. I still have a bunch of those supplies lying around, I got lots of reducer and hardener.
If your painting on the bare metal, you should also use a good wash primer, thats what it was called when I painted my aluminum wheels, it adheres very well to alloys, I also used a acid wash first. I know its allot of steps but the final result is much better. It was also a dupont product I think.
Here is a tip for ya on the hardner, even if you can unscrew the lid on the new can, after the first use it will usually be glued closed from the stuff getting on the lid. Punch a hole in the top of the lid, and then use some packing tape to seal it off. All of the last few cans of hardener I've bought, I couldn't open them, without the use of waterpump pliers, so from now on, I just put a hole in the lid.
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Well you've answered that question. Got more than you bargained for ehh?
Good luck. I've got some pretty red paint for it when it returns.
The report from Pinemartin is that the shroud is lovely kirksite, AKA pot metal. It's welded but is going to require some filler to make pretty. Hopefully it'll hold up to the tiny amount of use it'll get.
I figured it had a fair amount of aluminum in it, due to the fact that I've cut those shrouds before making modifications to the throttle controls for auger-mounting. I'm sure the zinc makes it hard to work with.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
1960's.. what did you expect?
I finally dug in and got started on the paint job. Everything had already been cleaned in the dishwasher, so the worst of the grime was gone. That's not good enough for a nice paint job though. I sprayed everything down real good with carb cleaner tonight. Some sanding and taping off followed. All the grey parts are primed and ready for the topcoat. That'll go on tomorrow evening. A paint job like this will cost at least $50 in materials. I hope to have enough to do the 07S as well. If not, it may be more like $100.
Here's the primer I'm using. I love the fact that it's an aerosol. Save a lot of time and mess in cleanup.
It goes on very easy and dries fast. You can handle it in 15 minutes.
This is only primer.
Here's the primer I'm using. I love the fact that it's an aerosol. Save a lot of time and mess in cleanup.
It goes on very easy and dries fast. You can handle it in 15 minutes.
This is only primer.
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This is the single-stage topcoat I'll be using.
Catalyst/hardner
Reducer
Catalyst/hardner
Reducer
Nice work so far and nice garage too.
adkranger
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice work man! I like to looks of those old saws.
I haven't tackled real painting yet, just getting 'em straight and functional so far. It's nice to see what can be done in an average guy's garage for restoration work.
I haven't tackled real painting yet, just getting 'em straight and functional so far. It's nice to see what can be done in an average guy's garage for restoration work.
Thanks guys. I've got a natural gas blue flame heater on the wall. The ceiling's nearly 13' and it's a 3-car garage, so I have a ceiling fan to push the heat back down. That's why I'm able to paint out there at this time of year. All the cars are backed out into the driveway
I've been dreading this paint job. It's just so easy to grab a can of Stihl paint and your done. But I wanted better than that for these old saws. It's really not that bad. I just don't like having to mix everything up and then the gun clean up is always a pain. I'll be using an old Binks BBR. I don't have a HVLP gun, so the old school stuff will have to do.
I've been dreading this paint job. It's just so easy to grab a can of Stihl paint and your done. But I wanted better than that for these old saws. It's really not that bad. I just don't like having to mix everything up and then the gun clean up is always a pain. I'll be using an old Binks BBR. I don't have a HVLP gun, so the old school stuff will have to do.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
You're going to use an air sprayer in your unprotected garage? lololol
I have an HVLP.. and won't use it inside (until I build my spray booth -project #4567; currently at #2489...).
Wear an activated carbon respirator.. not just an N95 mask.. The 2 part urethene is not nice..
I have an HVLP.. and won't use it inside (until I build my spray booth -project #4567; currently at #2489...
).Wear an activated carbon respirator.. not just an N95 mask.. The 2 part urethene is not nice..
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Nice work!
You're going to use an air sprayer in your garage? lololol
I have an HVLP.. and won't use it inside (until I build my spray booth -project #4567; currenly at #2489...
I've done it many a time. I was usually spraying something like Rustoleum though. Maybe I'll go pick me up a HVLP tomorrow after work.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
I have a high end Fuji 4 stage HVLP. They may be "Low pressure" but they are "high volume"... crap gets blown all over.
Buy a real organic respirator for the urethene..
Buy a real organic respirator for the urethene..
How can I tell other than setting it on fire?
OMG!!!! That is hilarious. Brad, you are a true artist. Cool saw.
Dapper Dan
ArboristSite Operative
+1 AND cover up everything you don't want overspray on!
You DO NOT want to inhale this stuff! (35 years in the autobody business)
