KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Still don't work. Lol its ok we believe you have a 562xp how do you like it so far?
562XP Questions
- Thread starter SCHallenger
- Start date
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This should work, & maybe someone can embed these?
www.flickr.com/photos/77696177@no8/9309626891/
www.flickr.com/photos/77696177@no8/9312414086/
I see they are not yet showing. Strange?!? They were taken from my e-mail, & they do appear there. I have sent a help inquiry to flickr.
Some way, some day I'll get these pics posted! In the meantime the carb calibration run has been done, & it runs like a demon!! It hasn't yet learned the slow idle when started cold, but I think it is coming. So far it is living up to expectations. I can imagine it will get even stronger over the next 15-25 tanks.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Oh yeah once its broke in it'll really scream
Jack, here are some pics of Mastermind's m/m and the xpw dawgs you wanted to see.
View attachment 305934View attachment 305935View attachment 305936View attachment 305937View attachment 305938
View attachment 305934View attachment 305935View attachment 305936View attachment 305937View attachment 305938
stihlonlynow
ArboristSite Operative
JakeG
Addicted to ArboristSite
Only if it has the NMurph HO oiler.
jchin
ArboristSite Member
Joe Kidd,
Great pictures. The dawgs look mean.....and Randy's MM looks great. I need stay away from AS forum. Its going to empty my pockets.
Hedgerow
HACK
Update on my 562XP
I thought you all should have a follow-up on my 562. I went to the dealership with 4 slabs of dry Honey Locust which were 8-9yrs. old & VERY hard, to do the carburetor calibration run. Since the run is supposed to be 3-5min., I figured these chunks would make the cuts longer, so the saw would not have to be repositioned as much. I had milled these slabs with my Jonsereds 920, & they were 4-6in. thick & 18-22in. wide. The #1 tech was keeping track of the cut time, & 3 or 4 others were watching. After firing up & making a couple of cuts in some cottonwood to stretch the chain, & then retensioning it, we started the calibration run. Around the 3.5-4min. mark things were sounding like the carb was dialed in. The chain was loose. Some of the DLs were slightly out of the groove. Close inspection of the chain showed that the oil supply had been more than adequate. The bar was so hot you couldn't touch it! One of the techs got me a pair of welding gloves, & you could still barely hold onto the bar for more than a couple of seconds! I thought I would take the shroud off & look inside. The cover was so hot, I was surprised that it hadn't melted!?! Nobody said anything, so I took the saw home thinking that I would take it up north on the weekend & cut some stuff & re-evaluate the whole situation. When I got up north I had second thoughts about running it without pulling the muff to have a look at the piston. Glad I did. It was scored! Took it back to the dealership & told the main man what I had found. He took a long hard look, & looked again, & then looked some more. He proceeded to take a small pointed tool (looked like a dental instrument) &, with some careful probing, pulled a small fine ring or strand of metal off of the scored part of the piston. Just for the record, the fuel was Husqvarna's canned 95octane E-free 50-1 premix. He said this was the 9th one he had sold, & it looked like the first failure or first known failure he had seen. He said he was going to thoroughly test the saw, including a vac-test, & call Husqvarna. To make a long story a little shorter, here is how it all played out. Air leaks were found around the carb boot & the de-comp valve. We had to wait about 10 days for parts. The P & C along with the boot & de-comp were all replaced. Picked up the saw yesterday & did a new calibration run (he reset the carb to default) & all went well. I'm looking forward to many happy hours with it! Looks like the frequently given advice to, "pick a good & responsible dealer", came into play here. FWIW, this saw is wearing a 24in. B & C, & the oiler is giving plenty of oil to lube the LGX.
I thought you all should have a follow-up on my 562. I went to the dealership with 4 slabs of dry Honey Locust which were 8-9yrs. old & VERY hard, to do the carburetor calibration run. Since the run is supposed to be 3-5min., I figured these chunks would make the cuts longer, so the saw would not have to be repositioned as much. I had milled these slabs with my Jonsereds 920, & they were 4-6in. thick & 18-22in. wide. The #1 tech was keeping track of the cut time, & 3 or 4 others were watching. After firing up & making a couple of cuts in some cottonwood to stretch the chain, & then retensioning it, we started the calibration run. Around the 3.5-4min. mark things were sounding like the carb was dialed in. The chain was loose. Some of the DLs were slightly out of the groove. Close inspection of the chain showed that the oil supply had been more than adequate. The bar was so hot you couldn't touch it! One of the techs got me a pair of welding gloves, & you could still barely hold onto the bar for more than a couple of seconds! I thought I would take the shroud off & look inside. The cover was so hot, I was surprised that it hadn't melted!?! Nobody said anything, so I took the saw home thinking that I would take it up north on the weekend & cut some stuff & re-evaluate the whole situation. When I got up north I had second thoughts about running it without pulling the muff to have a look at the piston. Glad I did. It was scored! Took it back to the dealership & told the main man what I had found. He took a long hard look, & looked again, & then looked some more. He proceeded to take a small pointed tool (looked like a dental instrument) &, with some careful probing, pulled a small fine ring or strand of metal off of the scored part of the piston. Just for the record, the fuel was Husqvarna's canned 95octane E-free 50-1 premix. He said this was the 9th one he had sold, & it looked like the first failure or first known failure he had seen. He said he was going to thoroughly test the saw, including a vac-test, & call Husqvarna. To make a long story a little shorter, here is how it all played out. Air leaks were found around the carb boot & the de-comp valve. We had to wait about 10 days for parts. The P & C along with the boot & de-comp were all replaced. Picked up the saw yesterday & did a new calibration run (he reset the carb to default) & all went well. I'm looking forward to many happy hours with it! Looks like the frequently given advice to, "pick a good & responsible dealer", came into play here. FWIW, this saw is wearing a 24in. B & C, & the oiler is giving plenty of oil to lube the LGX.
stihlonlynow
ArboristSite Operative
My trusty Husky dealer told me that the run in procedure is really not required. He told me to run it just like any other saw that I own. That's what I plan on doing when I get it next week.will let you know how it goes.
RiverRocket
ArboristSite Guru
I've run two tanks of fuel through mine so far.
I haven't don't the 3-5 minute run it yet...Too hot out.
But anyway, after two tanks the Auto tune is still searching at lower RPMS..
It runs Awesome at WOT..
bryanr2
Addicted to ArboristSite
I asked this in the 2260 thread but cant get a response....
will the 562xpw dual spikes fit on the 2260? or do they make a dual spike kit for the 2260?:msp_rolleyes:
will the 562xpw dual spikes fit on the 2260? or do they make a dual spike kit for the 2260?:msp_rolleyes:
SawTroll
Information Collector
I suspect not, unless you put a 562xp clutch cover on it......:msp_scared:
bryanr2
Addicted to ArboristSite
That is probably safer, but the air leaks were the trouble makers. When I did the calibration run with the new P & C the temp. was about 82 with a humidity level of 43 which is low for our area. I'll be looking forward to hearing your comments & how you handle the "run-in" situation.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I believe it is just about giving the saw some decent resistance for the first few minutes, avoiding twigs and limbing - and of course avoiding any "halv throttle" cutting.
It definately does not mean that you should hold it at full throttle between the cuts though!
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file://localhost/Users/staynerhaller/Pictures/iPhoto%20Library/Originals/2013/Jul%2017,%202013/P1000114.JPG
I'll post this just to see if the pic shows up.
I'll post this just to see if the pic shows up.
2 points.
1-If the oiler is working properly and chain tension is proper for the setup being used, the bar/clutch cover never should have gotten that hot.
2-With all these "techs" around #1 should have been an immediate issue needing to be addressed.
3-ok 3 points now. With all these "techs" present and air leak should have been evident, as the AT system will compensate for it by increasing the amount of fuel, thus raising rpms, most noticeable at idle.
MountainHigh
Selective Tree whacker
that run in procedure in the manual has me shaking my head. My local stihl/husky Dealer couldn't believe it either when i told him about it. Ya, I told him about it 
.... his reply was 'Stihl always recommends gradual break in procedure to properly seat rings, same as any other new engine since the dawn of time'.
562XP Manual says to run it full throttle 3 to 5 min under load to tune the carb, but says nothing about what that might do to rings/piston/sleeve/seals on a green engine.
I'm a buy and keep saw owner, unless they're using miracle titanium parts from NASA, Husqvarna has some splainin to do to get this old school geezer onto the full throttle break/Burn-in routine. Maybe it's part of the plan to sell more saws when they start failing in a few years 
Does the 550xp state the same break in procedure or is this solely for the 562xp - inquiring minds want to know!
Love to buy this saw but not quite there yet.
.... his reply was 'Stihl always recommends gradual break in procedure to properly seat rings, same as any other new engine since the dawn of time'.562XP Manual says to run it full throttle 3 to 5 min under load to tune the carb, but says nothing about what that might do to rings/piston/sleeve/seals on a green engine.
I'm a buy and keep saw owner, unless they're using miracle titanium parts from NASA, Husqvarna has some splainin to do to get this old school geezer onto the full throttle break/Burn-in routine. Maybe it's part of the plan to sell more saws when they start failing in a few years
Does the 550xp state the same break in procedure or is this solely for the 562xp - inquiring minds want to know!
Love to buy this saw but not quite there yet.
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KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
The manual says 8k-12k RPM for 3-5 minutes. Same procedure for all AT
Sent from my Autotune Carb
Sent from my Autotune Carb
