brand new husqvarna 395 dont run

[Wolf66]

I had got a husky 395 from baileys. Upon recieving it and using it on its first job, it was bogging and had no power. Baileys went out of their way to send me a brand new saw to avoid future headaches as I felt they sent me a bad saw. I just recieved the new saw yesterday and this one is running worse than the 1st one The saw came from CA. andI live in NY. We are right about see level. I tried to adjust the low side of the carberator and compensate with the idle. The saw is still not running. The customer is being a prick. He is telling me that If I dont have the job completed by this Friday, he will give the job to someone else and I am out the job and will not be paid. I already have a lot of $ tied up in this job and need to fix ASAP!

 

[HiOctane]

Looks like a fuel problem.Did you check the inlet lever level,screen in the carb,pulse line for cut,kink,etc also if the pulse hole in the cyl is clear.Make a pressure test on the fuel line to find some small hole.How about air vent on the tank?And one more thing,could be a stupid thing like blocked screen in the exhaust.Dont look like an engine air leak,but you could check anyway.

 

[havvey]

bad saw

I am not 100% sure what the over all situation is. But Here is me thoughts 1. Rent a saw to finish job if you have a lot of money in it and get paid. 2. tell customer that you are not responible for mechenical problems and if he does can you, you will sue for about 1,000,000:jawdrop:
3. Take new saw to a dealer and get it fixed it does have warrenty right?? might be faster than mailing to baileys. But make them aware of the issue.

 

[Full Skip]

How old is the gas mix? 32:1?

I think that sea level is what Husqvarna saws are factory tuned to.

Anyway, I'm no pro, but it would be helpful to have more info for those who are to troubleshoot this.

 

[coveredinsap]

I would tend to think that if you're using a 40:1 or 50:1 mix on a brand new saw and immediately burying it in wood to 'get the job done' ASAP...as opposed to mixing rich (at least 32:1) on a brand new saw and going easy the first half dozen tanks or so....it's entirely possible that you're smoking the pistons on them. In other words, if you run them lean and hard when brand new, you're asking for trouble.

Hopefully it's something simple like bad fuel.

(And yes, according to the specs they're factory set to 'sea level'. You should only need to alter the settings for 'high elevation' operation.....I think it said above 5000 ft. or so)

 

[Mr.]

Saws were meant to cut with.

I run 32 to 1, but alot of saws get broke in by the WOT method at 50 to 1 without incident.

Fred

 

[coveredinsap]

Saws were meant to cut with.

....And cars were made to drive. But I certainly don't take a brand new vehicle and run it like I'm in the Baja 500. Neither do I not top up/change the oil as a new vehicle breaks in....particularly in the first few thousand miles. It's called a 'break-in' period....not a break period.

Maybe you're different though.

 

[sawinredneck]

....And cars were made to drive. But I certainly don't take a brand new vehicle and run it like I'm in the Baja 500. Neither do I not top up/change the oil as a new vehicle breaks in....particularly in the first few thousand miles. It's called a 'break-in' period....not a break period.

Maybe you're different though.

Man Sap, Do you buy a weedeater and carry it around the neighborhood while it's ideling? Or run a lawn mower at half throttle for the first season? Jeez..... I buy these tools, yes tools, to work with. Lawn mowers weedeaters chainsaws WFO right off the bat! If they are oing to break lets find out under warranty! And yes, I do drive like the Baja with a new motor. I have built street/strip motors for years, give me 30 min. to break in the cam check everything over then take it out and bash on it!!!!!! I had a kid a while back scared to do it, "I don't want to blow it up right away". I knew how this kid was going to drive it, seen him drive too many times. I took his keys and took him for a ride beat it like a redheaded step child!!!!! Motor still running fine to this day. Break it in like you are going to drive it, I have only had one motor come back, had shavings in the crank from bieng ground and I didn't clean it well enough.
On a new motor or car, I recomend changing the oil at 500 miles, clean the metal shavings out of the oil pan. Yes, there will be shavings, its called wearing in.
Andy

 

[Mr.]

I change the oil in my saw with every tank.:greenchainsaw:


Fred

 

[sawinredneck]

I change the oil in my saw with every tank.:greenchainsaw:


Fred

I should have seen that coming:bang: :bang: :bang:
Andy

 

[alderman]

I had a saw that had the same symptoms. My fuel was fresh but it would bog down something fierce. I took it to the shop and he said my fuel was bad. I bought premium fuel at the local gas station so I thought I was doing the right thing until I figured out they probably only sell 15 gallons of premium a week and it's probably been sitting in their tank for a year. Went back to regular and problem solved.

 

[Cut4fun]

I for one believe in, break them in the way you attend to use the product. When i finished building the motor in my 69 chevy and got everything running pretty close to right. I went out and pounced the gas and let her go to 7000 rpm on the shift. If there is a weak link I want to find it early. When i rebuilt my 3750 last year. I didnt wait and ????? foot around. WOT and cutting we go. I might be wrong on this method, but it works for me. Hold it to the floor or handle and grit your teeth and hold on.

 

[coveredinsap]

Well, I've read both Stihl and Husky manuals, and both say go easy on the saw for the first 10 tankfuls or so, and always let the saw idle to warm up and idle to cool off.

Now, notwithstanding the EPA making them say 50:1 mix....I'm guessing the other factory recommendations are probably based on experience with their product, not whimsey.

Nobody says you have to baby them, but I'd refrain from hard use (abuse) until they're 'seasoned'.

 

[Bad E]

I bought a new HUSKY and mixed 40:1 and used it like it was made to be. No problemo??

 

[coveredinsap]

I bought a new HUSKY and mixed 40:1 and used it like it was made to be. No problemo??

It appears that under regular use there should be no problem. I think it's maybe the hard use combined with a 'iffy' 50:1 mix that causes a small percentage of new saws (from all manufacturers) to have seizure problems. The manufacturers probably figure that small percentage of seizures as the cost of doing business with the new EPA regs.

I'm no expert, though ...that's just what the evidence indicates.

For myself...again, I would tend to err on the side of caution and stay on the down side of 32:1, particularly for a new saw. But that's just me.

 

[sawinredneck]

Just a couple of thoughts for you Sap. 32:1 was way back in the day, but with these new saws being choked down so much already doesn't runnin that much richer offer even more oportunity for fouling and carbon build-up? Now I understand milling is another world and I am not going there, but for general use is richening the saw up that much not leading to a shorter life span also?
Just a side, sharpening you're drill bits with the sander is fine, just let them air cool, dpping them in water changes thier temper making them more brittle and likely to break.
Andy

 

[Big Woody]

I think on a new saw your supposed to use two cycle "break in" oil.

 

[canguy21]

What is "break in oil"? I tell customers to run it normally from the get go but let it warm up for 15 seconds and don't pin it no load. I also don't feel there is a need to go heavier than 50:1 in a stock saw using a quality name brand oil, more just results in poor performance and carbon buildup.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I really cant believe some of the things people reccomend for break in.

Its allmost like they read it as Breakin.

 

[ray benson]

Check the 395 operators manual. Gas /oil mix is 33:1.