Can't afford the synthetic oil.

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Would it be easier just to run Pennz and rebuild the saw sooner?


  • Total voters
    17
  • Poll closed .
I don't understand milling with a chainsaw. It is not the right tool for the job. I use a custom saw mill they charge 14 cents a foot.
My logger buddy puts hundreds of hours a year on his saws and uses Walmart SuperTeck.


14 cents a foot?


I wouldn't use a CSM either. Add in the skidding, loading, transport and unloading then loading on the mill.

Me thinks your guy would be better off paying you 14 cents a foot to keep it at home.


Chainsaw milling ain't fast nor glorious, but the feeling you get when you put a piece to use is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,PRICELESS!


By the by, I use Klotz Super Tecni-plate in my milling saws, never seen the build-up people keep yakkin' about.

Just a nice 'wettened' look on everything, and that makes me happy, your mileage may (or may not) vary.
 
14 cents a foot?


I wouldn't use a CSM either. Add in the skidding, loading, transport and unloading then loading on the mill.

Me thinks your guy would be better off paying you 14 cents a foot to keep it at home.


Chainsaw milling ain't fast nor glorious, but the feeling you get when you put a piece to use is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,PRICELESS!


By the by, I use Klotz Super Tecni-plate in my milling saws, never seen the build-up people keep yakkin' about.

Just a nice 'wettened' look on everything, and that makes me happy, your mileage may (or may not) vary.

I think a lot of the build up with super is from more idle time. I'd say on the mill they get warm and burn most of that out and send it out the exhaust.
 
14 cents a foot?


I wouldn't use a CSM either. Add in the skidding, loading, transport and unloading then loading on the mill.

Me thinks your guy would be better off paying you 14 cents a foot to keep it at home.


Chainsaw milling ain't fast nor glorious, but the feeling you get when you put a piece to use is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,PRICELESS!


By the by, I use Klotz Super Tecni-plate in my milling saws, never seen the build-up people keep yakkin' about.

Just a nice 'wettened' look on everything, and that makes me happy, your mileage may (or may not) vary.

ALL I do is load my gooseneck trailer drop it off at the Amish mill and pick it up the next week. The sawed boards are already loaded on the trailer and ready to go.
 
Got any pics of your projects?

The Amish around here are pretty shrewd businessmen.

I reckon one nail or rock would pretty much ruin a saw band, don't see how they could profit at that rate.


Some of us don't have a means to skid and load/transport our spoils.

CSMs are the only way to get the slabs where they fall.
 
i think he means .14 a board foot not a running foot. a board foot is 1'x1'x1" and its kinda high from my point of view. if a mill paid 325 for logs and it cost 140 to mill then the lumber is now worth 465 a thousand board feet........it could be pallet lumber. i think its more fair to pay for custom sawing by the hour, that way if you took nice sized logs every one makes out. if you bring sticks then the sawyer got paid to mess with it.
 
I wouldn't hesitate to use it after seeing the inside of a saw run hard with it.
 
Mike do you know what the percentage of synthetic oil to dino is in the Lucas? 50/50, 75/25 etc...
I'm not Mike, however I have a pretty good idea what they'll say. They will tell you a % of this or that group 3 or 4 base stock was used + other proprietary additives. That's about as far as you'll get. I'm sure it will work fine, however I have my own reasons for not running anything made by Lucas oils.

I keep telling myself not to post in anymore oil threads, but I just can't help myself.

Look if you want the best pay for it. If not pick up the cheapest oil you can find, you're not going to destroy your engine and most will never noticed the difference. But you see some can tell the difference between a Chevy truck and a BMW, and many of those that can, don't care. It comes down to what is perceived as acceptable and worthwhile to each individual.

Klotz Super TechniPlate is one of the worst two cycle oils I've used. That is unless you want massive amounts of carbon buildup, an upset stomach and headache.
 
I'm not Mike, however I have a pretty good idea what they'll say. They will tell you a % of this or that group 3 or 4 base stock was used + other proprietary additives. That's about as far as you'll get. I'm sure it will work fine, however I have my own reasons for not running anything made by Lucas oils.

I keep telling myself not to post in anymore oil threads, but I just can't help myself.

Look if you want the best pay for it. If not pick up the cheapest oil you can find, you're not going to destroy your engine and most will never noticed the difference. But you see some can tell the difference between a Chevy truck and a BMW, and many of those that can, don't care. It comes down to what is perceived as acceptable and worthwhile to each individual.

Klotz Super TechniPlate is one of the worst two cycle oils I've used. That is unless you want massive amounts of carbon buildup, an upset stomach and headache.
Mdavlee is Mike:lol but thanks for the info Andy:). I'm gonna use some Lucas now but have used Maxima K2 or Motul 800 for a few years now i was just wondering how good the Lucas was.
 
Many get bamboozled by this additive package and that package however to me whats most important in a high quality lubricant is not 'what's in' an oil but rather 'what's not' in an oil.
 
I'm not Mike, however I have a pretty good idea what they'll say. They will tell you a % of this or that group 3 or 4 base stock was used + other proprietary additives. That's about as far as you'll get. I'm sure it will work fine, however I have my own reasons for not running anything made by Lucas oils.

I keep telling myself not to post in anymore oil threads, but I just can't help myself.

Look if you want the best pay for it. If not pick up the cheapest oil you can find, you're not going to destroy your engine and most will never noticed the difference. But you see some can tell the difference between a Chevy truck and a BMW, and many of those that can, don't care. It comes down to what is perceived as acceptable and worthwhile to each individual.

Klotz Super TechniPlate is one of the worst two cycle oils I've used. That is unless you want massive amounts of carbon buildup, an upset stomach and headache.

Oh my gosh,

that must be why I like it.
 
I've got some Amsoil Sabre, never would I run it 100:1 again, tried that in a model airplane 50cc engine. I monitored engine temps and I retuned carb for it and it seemed to have slightly scored the cylinder walls and quickly started to build carbon on a low time engine. I agree some synthetics leave carbon more than others. If I trusted Sabre in my saw, I've got a qrt of that. Not really wanting to try, but wonder how it'd do at 32:1?

It's a shame they did away with the Pennz air cooled. At wally about all my local store has is Pennzoil Marine TC-W3 Premium Plus and advance auto has
Havoline TC-W3 2-Cycle Motor Oil. Both about $5.60, not sure if Havoline is synthetic. The Pennz is semi. All the other stuff has to be shipped in. Wally does free store shipping, for those that can plan ahead in time. :) Where I am bike shops are out of the way and only good choices are wally or parts stores. IDK why autozone doesn't start carrying better oil. Even the Royal Purple is special order. Must be us synthetic guys on here myself included, just aren't the norm and lot of guys run whatever they find. :( Be kinda nice just to be able to run down the road spur of the moment kind of thing. :chainsaw:

Hey bud, you can !!
Chris-PA stated earlier that its easy to run to the box store (home depot) and grab some Echo 2 cycle synthetic.
Grab a bottle to hold you over while you wait for Baileys to ship.
I am grabbing some (Motul, Maxima, or BelRay) next, so while I wait for Randy to give us his opinion on his new quart of 2 cycle, I have me some home depot Echo synthetic !!
 
I'm not Mike, however I have a pretty good idea what they'll say. They will tell you a % of this or that group 3 or 4 base stock was used + other proprietary additives. That's about as far as you'll get. I'm sure it will work fine, however I have my own reasons for not running anything made by Lucas oils.

I keep telling myself not to post in anymore oil threads, but I just can't help myself.

Look if you want the best pay for it. If not pick up the cheapest oil you can find, you're not going to destroy your engine and most will never noticed the difference. But you see some can tell the difference between a Chevy truck and a BMW, and many of those that can, don't care. It comes down to what is perceived as acceptable and worthwhile to each individual.

Klotz Super TechniPlate is one of the worst two cycle oils I've used. That is unless you want massive amounts of carbon buildup, an upset stomach and headache.



I must say,

it do keep you regular.


Really Andy, how long have you used this oil in two stroke equipment?

I have been using it for years (since we ran out of Mobil 2T)

I have used Yamalube 2t in a pinch, but really prefer the scent of the techniplate.

Guess I have a cast iron stomach, no brain cells, and lean burnin' saws?
 
I must say,

it do keep you regular.


Really Andy, how long have you used this oil in two stroke equipment?

I have been using it for years (since we ran out of Mobil 2T)

I have used Yamalube 2t in a pinch, but really prefer the scent of the techniplate.

Guess I have a cast iron stomach, no brain cells, and lean burnin' saws?

I couldn't mill with any of the super. It was making my eyes water if there wasn't enough breeze. I used 2 gallons of fuel mixed and give the rest of the quart away. R50 was a little better. Original I could take better than the rest. I went to maxima for the not so offensive to the eyes and nose when milling. Cross cutting and cutting firewood normally I could run any of them. H1R was the same way. My nose would run and I'd be sneezing after about 2 tanks milling.
 
To each his own.

There are guys that swear the TC3 is all they use and treats them fine.

I'ma little older than a bunch here, the smell of bean oil harkens back to me youth.


These threads always go off on a tangent, oil in a two stroke is good, no oil is bad.
 
To each his own.

There are guys that swear the TC3 is all they use and treats them fine.

I'ma little older than a bunch here, the smell of bean oil harkens back to me youth.


These threads always go off on a tangent, oil in a two stroke is good, no oil is bad.

I'm not saying I don't like the smell. It's the eyes watering and burning like I've put soap or something in them is what gets me. If I could stand it when milling all I'd run would be klotz.
 
Here's my take on it. The OP seems to be millilng because of not enough income "to get back on my feet". I don't think he's charging enough. Hobby or business, you still have the same equipment overhead and costs. If the OP isn't charging enough to pay for synthetic oil, then he might not be charging enough to cover the cost of equipment breakdown or regular wear and tear on the equipment. Not all business is good business, you have to learn when to walk away from a job because it doesn't pay enough. You can't expect to make money if all you are doing is exchanging funds. Even if it's a hobby, charge like a business would have to charge to pay for the hobby, AND put some $$ aside. If all you are doing is charging for labor and what the gas/oil costs believe it or not, you are going backwards. Sooner or later the equipment will wear out, and the machine downtime will cost you production time unless you have a 2nd saw to put to use while #1 is getting repaired.

I've seen synthetic hold up in some horrific conditions, where dino oil wouldn't have, so my vote is for synthetic, but that was in a gearbox, not pre-mix.
 
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