Exactly right. Most of the guys tend to over-complicate the entire oil question. I run Bailey's synthetic and 100LL at about 40:1...more or less... depending on how much I slop on the ground when I'm mixing. Before Bailey's synthetic I ran Bailey's dino. Before Bailey's dino I ran whatever kind of motor oil that I could find at the gas station. I'm not very particular about having an exact blend.
Are there better oils? Probably, but I have neither the time nor the inclination to start screwing around and experimenting just for the sake of it. What would be the point? I need to get wood on the ground and I need reliability. No saw, no work. No work, no money. What I do works for me but I don't demand it of others. I don't have any fancy chemical terms or a bunch of numbers to back up what I say, just fifty years of running saws in the woods and making my living at it.
I watch what the guys I work with use and I watch how their saws last and I know what's worked for me for many years and thousands of saw hours. I run my saws hard and they don't get a lot of maintenance beyond the basics that get them ready for the next day. I've never, ever, had an oil related saw failure and that includes the old days when we mixed 30wt. at 16:1 in the old Macs. We always make sure our fuel is clean, our air filters unobstructed, and run the sharpest chains we can.
The cost difference between "maybe oil" and top of the line stuff is very small and the cost difference is really all you're paying to go first class. That's not saying that the most expensive oils are the best. Some oils develop a cult following but that doesn't make them better.
Again, what I do works for me. If you find something that works well for you don't listen to all the hype and arguments and theory and brand loyalty...just run it. And don't get too caught up in oil threads.
