SawTroll
Information Collector
Yes, but 3/8 is just nominal (not exact) as a chain pitch - so that math/translation is irrelevant (and inaccurate).
Chain won't spin after tightening the nut
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Yes, but 3/8 is just nominal (not exact) as a chain pitch - so that math/translation is irrelevant (and inaccurate).
If that post came off as rude I apologize. When I wrote it I realized it could be taken as if I was saying you were not taking the advice but I didn't elaborate. I havent followed closely enough to believe that was the case hence I said "one reason", which is usually the case... I also actually gave you some advice to go read some similar threads but you didn't pick up on it likely from my sarcasm. Sorry.
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Since "Mohick" is in his late 80's, we cut him a little slack, they let him on the internet for an hour a day at the OPE old folks home, but they might curtail his bingo
priveleges if he keeps acting up.........
Take the bar/chain off, and just rotate the chain around the bar by hand, and observe closely, and see where it binds, it just may be one burr or kink.
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Oh, you mean this guy!! Yeah, it can be frustrating for us trying to help, but then we don't realize that you are getting ideas and suggestions from 30 different guys, so you
can't follow and try all of the ideas thrown at you, or you , being new here, would know which members are even close to being correct. Some of the guys here might even
suggest you need a complete engine rebuild!
I agree they dont know what is going on . It was rude!
This is getting hugely frustrating. Come on you guys, the saw worked fine before he hit the wire so stop dogging on issues of chain/bar/sprocket compatibility.
For the love of chainsaws and all things mechanical, will you PLEASE mount the bar and chain on the saw without the cover and carefully inspect what's going on at the base of the bar. Did the chain move freely right after it met the wire? Was the bar always positioned as far back as it would go? My 2-cents worth is that the chain has become kinked somewhere or has burs that prevent it from straightening out properly and now appears to be shorter, requiring the bar to be moved back. To get the chain on the bar, you may have had to tilt the bar away from the saw, and when you tighten the bar nuts, it brings the bar back in and swings the back end of the bar into contact with the clutch drum, jamming it. Just a theory, and I really don't like it because the end of the bar should not be able to contact the clutch drum, but maybe with a bar not meant for that saw...... Also if there is something wrong with the chain the grinder operator should have noticed it.
For the love of chainsaws and all things mechanical, will you PLEASE mount the bar and chain on the saw without the cover and carefully inspect what's going on at the base of the bar. Did the chain move freely right after it met the wire? Was the bar always positioned as far back as it would go? My 2-cents worth is that the chain has become kinked somewhere or has burs that prevent it from straightening out properly and now appears to be shorter, requiring the bar to be moved back. To get the chain on the bar, you may have had to tilt the bar away from the saw, and when you tighten the bar nuts, it brings the bar back in and swings the back end of the bar into contact with the clutch drum, jamming it. Just a theory, and I really don't like it because the end of the bar should not be able to contact the clutch drum, but maybe with a bar not meant for that saw...... Also if there is something wrong with the chain the grinder operator should have noticed it.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
It may be frustrating waiting for someone to follow advice, but you know it is his saw and his problem to solve - he'll get to it if it's important to him. Why should it make anyone else angry or cause them to get rude? If he never fixes it my saws will still work fine - so help if you can but there's no need to be impolite.
Did clean out the bar grove well. Run a small flat head screw driver down from the sprocket to the end that bolts to saw. Also, check for burs or anything the hang up while cleaning. Then blow out with compressed air to make sure clean. Clean and blow chain off. Bolt on using large washers without clutch cover, like Old2stroke said above and get back to us.
It is hard to always get common terms and know what everyone is talking about online if new to something.
It is hard to always get common terms and know what everyone is talking about online if new to something.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Sorry, I missed this post the first time around.
The answer really is NO, it doesn't match, as that rim is a regular 3/8" one and not a lo-pro one. Oregon doesn't sell any rims for 3/8" lo-pro chain.
Mostly that combination sort of works, but it is like using a rim that is worn well past its useful "life" (diameter is to small).
I don't really know if it can cause the issue you have, but usually it doesn't.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Something I would try is to leave a little extra slack in the chain with the nuts finger tight, and then recheck the tension after tightening the nuts. If it helps, make a mental note of how much slack to leave (sort of a "Kentucky windage"). It may solve the problem if the bar and chain is OK.
Avoid over-tightening both the chain and the nuts.
Avoid over-tightening both the chain and the nuts.
sweepleader
Chainsaws and Fire Trucks, perfect.
The pictures show what looks like a lot of crud on the mounting surfaces for the bar and cover. A small spot of debris could be causing the bar to misalign or bend when the nuts are torqued. I would suggest cleaning the entire area including both sides of both chain guides, the bar, the drive case and the clutch cover to be sure there is nothing in there that should not be. Good luck.
smokey7
jack of a lot ace of a few
It's interesting how many threads are put about not oiling, cutting crooked, cutting a few inches and no further. Then the saw bound up with brake on or wrong bar gauge pitch combos. Is a hot topic. Continue I am curious of the answer now.
I have learned a lot of things here on AS over the past 10 years (!!! hey, I missed my anniversary - Darin did not send flowers!!!). Some appear 'obvious' in hindsight, with the knowledge I acquired later, or because they are common issues. But it is easy to forget not knowing that stuff. It is also easy to assume that someone else's problem is always due to the same cause. Aside from trying to help out 'newbies', I often learn learn stuff from threads like this, especially when it is due to something that is not obvious.
It can be frustrating to diagnose problems at a distance - the OP might describe or take a photo of what he/she thinks is the issue, while an experienced eye might notice something else right away.
It is clear that this saw has a non-standard bar and chain set up, which is probably related to the problem. The challenging part is that the OP says it was working until he hit the barbed wire. Was something damaged by the wire (bent chain links can be hard to find, even when you are looking for them)? Was this bar/chain set up about to fail anyway (drive sprocket incompatibility)? Is it related to the 'lack-of-slack'?
***Even if he 'solves' his problem by replacing the bar, chain, and sprocket with the standard ones for that saw, I want to know what it was about the current set up that caused the problem.*** Was it a bent link? Is the bar tail too long? Are the guide plates damaged? Design limits of this Husky? Etc. That way, I learn something as well.
Philbert
It can be frustrating to diagnose problems at a distance - the OP might describe or take a photo of what he/she thinks is the issue, while an experienced eye might notice something else right away.
It is clear that this saw has a non-standard bar and chain set up, which is probably related to the problem. The challenging part is that the OP says it was working until he hit the barbed wire. Was something damaged by the wire (bent chain links can be hard to find, even when you are looking for them)? Was this bar/chain set up about to fail anyway (drive sprocket incompatibility)? Is it related to the 'lack-of-slack'?
***Even if he 'solves' his problem by replacing the bar, chain, and sprocket with the standard ones for that saw, I want to know what it was about the current set up that caused the problem.*** Was it a bent link? Is the bar tail too long? Are the guide plates damaged? Design limits of this Husky? Etc. That way, I learn something as well.
Philbert
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Don't hold your breath!!
fearofpavement
Trying them all
What frustrates me about this thread is that I encountered a similar situation on a saw once. It also seemed fine until the bar was clamped down and then the chain wouldn't turn. I can't for the life of me remember what the issue was. I do remember that the chain was pressing into the body of the saw but I can't remember why or what I did to remedy it. Can't even remember what brand of saw it was.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Getting old sucks sometimes.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
No kidding. I've been wracking my brain on this because it's probably the same issue but I just can't pull it off the hard drive...
Brain won't spin after tightening . . .
Philbert
Philbert
LOL! And it gets worse! Getting back to the issue, I like your idea as the best place to start being to mount the B&C without the clutch cover using the nuts & washers & see if the chain can be freely pulled by hand. Another thought comes to mind. If I remember correctly (can't count on that) the OP said he continued to cut after damaging the chain & some smoking occured. I would expect the chain to stretch from being overheated, but maybe some warpage took place?? I had to chime in here, because I am very curious as to what the answer is.
Wonder if he smoked the chainbrake band?
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