Echo's new top handle: CS-355T
- Thread starter Edge & Engine
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+2 on removing the limiter caps and fine tuning the mixture screws. This becomes mandatory these days with just about everything. Fuel quality varies, as does DA (Density Altitude) for various parts of the country. I even had to remove the carburetor from my Honda powered power washer and drill the fixed main jet out by .002" to get it to run correctly. It was WAY too lean right out of the box, had to choke it till fully warmed up, and even then it "hunted" on the governor at no load. Adding some fuel cleaned it right up, just like it does with two stroke power equipment.....Cliff
So what happens when you return a Echo saw that has seized due to a lean condition (with the mixture screws set all the way to factory rich without tampering with the limiters)? I would guess your experience would differ from dealer to dealer. I have a good local Echo dealer and have thought of trying one of their top handle saws. I own a Echo HCA -266, one of their high dollar hedge trimmers and it runs extremely well with high quality construction. This little Echo engine doesn't seem to be as EPA restricted as my small Husqvarna power heads. As if anybody cares but I may start to sort my equipment purchases like this - Professional Chainsaws = Husqvarna, Small power head equipment like line trimmers, hedge trimmers etc...= Echo, Construction equipment like a Cutoff machine (TS 500i) = Stihl. That's the thing about landscape construction, you need it all and will never have enough. Sorry for going all off topic but hey it's Christmas and I felt like giving.:msp_biggrin:
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borat
ArboristSite Operative
I had a problem with an old Tecumseh engine that was hard as hell to start and was running lean. I pulled the main jet/float bowl nut and filed out the jet holes with a cutting torch tip cleaner. Much easier to start after that and ran just fine. I suspect over the years, the holes had gummed up and needed to be reamed to get them back to original size.
Try opening the low adjuster about 1/4 turn, you may need to speed up the idle after that. Steve
Thanks, mountainlake. I'll do it!
My CS-360T was really lean across the entire load/speed range right out of the box. It was not within the range of the mixture screws with the limiter caps still in place to get it tuned.
The rev-limiter also fools the tuner when setting the "H" speed screw, as it mimics "four stroking" at full throttle/no load.
Even before I muffler modded the CS-360T, it ran quite well once the limiter caps were removed and I gave it some fuel.
It's no different that setting any other carburetor on a 2 stroke engine, except it has a rev limiter that kicks in at high rpm's no-load. Set the "L" speed screw first, for highest idle, then go slightly rich till you just here a change in engine speed. Re-set the idle speed.
Set the "H" speed screw pretty rich to start with, and start making cuts with it. Start leaning it up and make a cut after each adjustment. There is a very fine line with that saw between going on the rev limiter and the best "H" speed screw setting. You basically have to sneak up on the ideal setting, setting the "H" screw for best power in the cut, er on the rich side, and it will be fine......Cliff
The rev-limiter also fools the tuner when setting the "H" speed screw, as it mimics "four stroking" at full throttle/no load.
Even before I muffler modded the CS-360T, it ran quite well once the limiter caps were removed and I gave it some fuel.
It's no different that setting any other carburetor on a 2 stroke engine, except it has a rev limiter that kicks in at high rpm's no-load. Set the "L" speed screw first, for highest idle, then go slightly rich till you just here a change in engine speed. Re-set the idle speed.
Set the "H" speed screw pretty rich to start with, and start making cuts with it. Start leaning it up and make a cut after each adjustment. There is a very fine line with that saw between going on the rev limiter and the best "H" speed screw setting. You basically have to sneak up on the ideal setting, setting the "H" screw for best power in the cut, er on the rich side, and it will be fine......Cliff
Appreciate the information: saw cuts fine, just a little slow in accelerating. I'll play with the adjustments as soon as I get a chance.
It should be "lightening" fast for accelleration off idle. Add some fuel as Steve mentioned, this will really help. I would also spend some time with the "H" speed screw as well, there is quite a bit of power lurking in that saw from tuning, and even more with a muffler mod.
The CS-360T is a great little top handle saw. As mentioned I've been running mine for years now trying to get it to develope a "death rattle". Instead, it just keeps on running flawlessly, and doing everything that I ask of it. It has great power for the cc's.
Negatives are a tad "bulky" for a top handle. I like the slim lines and compactness of the MS-200 better, but not the price tag that comes with it.......Cliff
The CS-360T is a great little top handle saw. As mentioned I've been running mine for years now trying to get it to develope a "death rattle". Instead, it just keeps on running flawlessly, and doing everything that I ask of it. It has great power for the cc's.
Negatives are a tad "bulky" for a top handle. I like the slim lines and compactness of the MS-200 better, but not the price tag that comes with it.......Cliff
Yep, the price was good, and the saw works fine. I don't do a lot of tree work, but I use it a lot for cutting branches on firewood trees. It is perfect for cutting the small branches that I don't want to cut with a big saw. It cuts dead oak with no hesitation. I'm glad I got it!
Vibes
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't want to sound critical of your decision (your the one who brought up $'s) but I can think of about 20 saws that would be a way better value and flat out smoke a 192/ 170/017. Especially for that kind of money. And especially for ground work and brush throwing.
My saws for just knocking down brush (3 of them) were all bought for the total of $225. 2 were manufacturer refurbs 1 was a yard sale find and was cleaner than the remans. If you add up all the extra chains and closeout bar/chain combos I've fitted them with from Baileys I'm still under that price point. If I put value on my labor tweeking them then You got me beat. But I still got 3 saws. And 2 screnches and a case LOL.
cjtreeclimber
ArboristSite Operative
I'm really considering purchasing this cs 355 t shortly here. I'd like to do the best things for it right out of the box, so I'm open ears you guys! I was curious on how I should just start breaking it in, removing the plastic crap to adjust the carb (to richin it up), and possibly a muffler mod if Its easy enough for me.
- C.J.
- C.J.
cjtreeclimber
ArboristSite Operative
Up-date to this. I just gave my dealer a hundred bucks on the saw today so I'll have to come up with another 300 or so. He said something about taking those plastic things off the H and L temporarily to give a better adjustment after I first brake in the saw. Then of course there is taking the spark-arrestor out and what to do about with the muffler (as far as opening it up or modding) I haven't a clue.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
That sounds like a very good start! I would run at least a few tanks through it after carb adjust and before MM and make a video of all your steps so that you have a documentation before and after MM. I would run it in that configuration for some time and then you can still descide if you want to spend money for a full blown modification by a sitemodder or not. It will certainly arouse a lot of interest by users here if you go the second route. Usually the modders here do an elaborate picture and video documentation so that all questions and doubts are quenched in a second.
Good luck!
7
Good luck!
7
bruce6670
ArboristSite Operative
Has anyone here actually run a 200T and a 355T ? I'd like to know what the 355T is like. I just read 15 pages of mostly nonsense and still haven't heard if it's up to par.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Most of us have ran an MS200T and a CS360T. Not many have ran the newer CS355T yet. I haven't.
millbilly
ArboristSite Guru
None of the echo dealers in my area have the 355 yet.
bruce6670
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for the replies. Maybe in the near future more people will be running them and we can get a few good reviews.
Edge & Engine
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
We had some demo saws out with two Asplundh crews...one crew had 192t's and the other had 200t's. According to them, the 192t is nowhere close in the performance range (which it shouldn't be). The 200T is a closer call, they felt power was very close the same. The overall impression was very positive, with the only negative complaints being the size of the filler caps, and the operation of the on/off/choke switch, which operates in reverse of the Stihl.
Have too agree, it's about time for a side by side vid with the same new chain. Also both saws broke in. Steve
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