Mixed gas anxiety

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Well Bill you said my post about greasing the pig was not politicaly correct. After deep thought I agree it was an honest post and to make it politicaly correct it would have to be filled with lies false promises half truths etc the same things most of the politicians are famous for using.
Good luck in your future career as a politician.
Kash
 
Well Bill you said my post about greasing the pig was not politicaly correct. After deep thought I agree it was an honest post and to make it politicaly correct it would have to be filled with lies false promises half truths etc the same things most of the politicians are famous for using.
Good luck in your future career as a politician.
Kash
My first shot at a political career had mixed results. The short time I lived in town I ran for city council. I knew I would lose as I was an outsider plus the others running were fine folks, real good folks. Well the mayor was a wealthy trucking company owner. He had been in office for a long time and was always unopposed. He was also a good guy but there was some resentment toward him because he was gone to Florida all winter. Well I ended up losing the city council election BIG but a good number of folks wrote me in as mayor. My next attempt was for school board. I was elected but my own brother voted against me. In a few years I am going to run against my ex-wifes uncle for county board. Funny thing is my ex-wife and with the exception of her mother, her family hate me so much that they would throw me an anchor if I was drowning but they will vote for me because they hate him more. No let me tell ya that's a lot of hate right there.
 
My first shot at a political career had mixed results. The short time I lived in town I ran for city council. I knew I would lose as I was an outsider plus the others running were fine folks, real good folks. Well the mayor was a wealthy trucking company owner. He had been in office for a long time and was always unopposed. He was also a good guy but there was some resentment toward him because he was gone to Florida all winter. Well I ended up losing the city council election BIG but a good number of folks wrote me in as mayor. My next attempt was for school board. I was elected but my own brother voted against me. In a few years I am going to run against my ex-wifes uncle for county board. Funny thing is my ex-wife and with the exception of her mother, her family hate me so much that they would throw me an anchor if I was drowning but they will vote for me because they hate him more. No let me tell ya that's a lot of hate right there.
The mayor in my city is a ten year student, that's all he has done, been a student at university. No work experience, never owned a business or had a job and he had the backing of the greens ( a political party in my country that he is a member of) to go for the mayoralty.
 
Myself and a lot of guys run 1oz tcw3 to 1 gallon diesel in our 24 v Cummins trucks. The vp 44 injection pump is a notoriously weak link for that engine and the extra oil in the fuel helps prolong its service life. I use the tcw3 because it’s designed for liquid cooled engines and shouldn’t coke up in the engine. I realize it’s all anecdotal but moparman1973 swears by it and he’s the online guru when it comes to 24v Cummins.
 
When I measure the oil in the ratio rite cup I add some gas to dilute it then dump in in the already full plastic gas can then shake well then shake before every use.
Unless water has separated out, shaking before each use does nothing. If it is in solution, it will not separate. If it is not in solution, it would be best to decant the water layer. Otherwise, you would need to shake your saw continuously while using it.
 
Why not try 200:1 or 300:1? I mean less lubricant is more better, right?
Now why in the hell would I do that? :wtf:

The people that make Saber recommend 100:1, and I went to 66:1 - that's plenty rich. It's worked for the instructor in LA for 5 years, and it's been working for me for two.
 
Unless water has separated out, shaking before each use does nothing. If it is in solution, it will not separate. If it is not in solution, it would be best to decant the water layer. Otherwise, you would need to shake your saw continuously while using it.
It makes sure it is properly mixed in case it wasnt the first time ,just a precautionary step it might be overkill but one never knows. Better safe than sorry.
 
Unless water has separated out, shaking before each use does nothing. If it is in solution, it will not separate.
I guess it's not truly in "solution" like salt in water or alcohol in water (suspension? emulsion?) because if you let 2mix sit in a clear container for a few days, you'll see -- there will be more of the oil (or at least the pigment in the oil) toward the bottom than at the top. One shake is all it takes to remix it. Hell, it probably gets remixed sufficiently simply by tilting the can. But a li'l shake can't hurt!
 
Myself and a lot of guys run 1oz tcw3 to 1 gallon diesel in our 24 v Cummins trucks. The vp 44 injection pump is a notoriously weak link for that engine and the extra oil in the fuel helps prolong its service life. I use the tcw3 because it’s designed for liquid cooled engines and shouldn’t coke up in the engine. I realize it’s all anecdotal but moparman1973 swears by it and he’s the online guru when it comes to 24v Cummins.
I have a 2001 F-250 with the 7.3 liter PSD and read that modern ULSD lacks the lubricity needed to protect injectors / pumps in the PSD engine. But this paper

https://www.researchgate.net/public..._Fuels/link/5f6bbb4992851c14bc922bac/download
claims that castor oil, added at a rate of 200ppm to 500ppm (between 1 and 2.5 fluid ounces per 40 gallons of diesel) restores the lubricity to needed levels to protect injectors and pumps. (See pages marked 102-103 in the paper.)

Stanadyne (mfgr of diesel injector pumps) also makes an additive for ULSD; I suspect it's largely castor oil.
 
I guess it's not truly in "solution" like salt in water or alcohol in water (suspension? emulsion?) because if you let 2mix sit in a clear container for a few days, you'll see -- there will be more of the oil (or at least the pigment in the oil) toward the bottom than at the top. One shake is all it takes to remix it. Hell, it probably gets remixed sufficiently simply by tilting the can. But a li'l shake can't hurt!
Kudos for the "or at least the pigment in the oil". Having been raised by a scientist, to be a scientist - not recognizing things like the unlikely but still possible point that it *could* just be the pigment, makes me crazy.
 
I guess it's not truly in "solution" like salt in water or alcohol in water (suspension? emulsion?) because if you let 2mix sit in a clear container for a few days, you'll see -- there will be more of the oil (or at least the pigment in the oil) toward the bottom than at the top. One shake is all it takes to remix it. Hell, it probably gets remixed sufficiently simply by tilting the can. But a li'l shake can't hurt!
I've never had pre mix seperate after being mixed that doesn't contain castor.
Redbull did a test years ago where he mixed various oils and put them in a freezer. None seperated.
 
I've never had pre mix seperate after being mixed that doesn't contain castor.
Redbull did a test years ago where he mixed various oils and put them in a freezer. None seperated.
Mine didn't separate, it just kind of stratified or settled such that the mix at bottom was darker than at top, and the color change was gradual and continuous. No separation into distinct layers, though.
 
Never had an engine that needed to be flushed. Probably because I use good oil to start with.
high quality oils leave behind just as many deposits as cheaper oils if the oil changes or other maint is neglected. I service and repair so many it becomes second nature recognizing the tell tale signs. For the people that come to me I just do the needed services and add the chems if needed and instruct to change the oil at xx/yy.
 
I am sure every single person has heard someone say "you get what you pay for" Possibly one of the most common phrases spoken. Is it true? Of course it is...in some cases but not all. In the case of oils and lubricants that is a wide open subject that in all reality has no definitive answer as it is highly subject to one's beliefs. Lets take for example 10w30 motor oil. As of right now Wal Mart (not supporting Wal Mart just using them as an example) shows a 5 quart jug of their house brand 10w30 full synthetic high mileage oil at $17.98, they also list Castrol GTX 10w30 full synthetic high mileage oil at $21.92, and Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic high mileage oil at $27.47. All are 5 quart jugs and should all be comparable ONLY on their basic description. Now that is a huge difference in price. The question is do you get a better oil by paying more. Of course that is up to your own beliefs. Now if you are one who thinks WalMart has someone in the back wearing a blue smock packing their house brand oil you are sadly mistaken. I do not have any knowledge of where it is being refined but I will assure you it is not in a place only producing/packaging WalMart branded oil. It is coming from a refiner that is producing many different "branded oils" and I am bet a dollar to a donut that it is right along side a big brand name oil in their factory. Now am I saying the WalMart brand at $17.98 is identical to the Mobil 1 at $27.47 no I am not because I do not know.

This is a non-oil example that may shed a bit of information. I assume most everyone knows of the Heinz company. Hard not to know of Heinz Ketchup. Well in the beginning one of their big selling products was soup and they sold lots of it. Now when was the last time anyone on here went into the supermarket and bought a can of Heinz "branded" soup? I am betting no one has and if they honestly have well then they have some age and wisdom behind them. Now does that mean Heinz no longer makes soup? No it does not mean that. Now anyone living on the Iowa/Illinois border and some surrounding states I am betting you are familiar with the HyVee stores. Most of us are familiar with Aldi stores. Anyone ever bought a can of house brand soup at HyVee or Aldi If so you were buying Heinz soup and more than likely made in the Muscatine Iowa plant. Now is the soup you buy for $1.32 at HyVee better than what you buy at Aldi for $0.82. Remember you get what you pay for. I will tell you it is not. In the can is the EXACT same soup. The only difference is the label that goes on it and in the case of Aldi they used to require the cases to have blue shrink wrap instead of clear. How about Kosher soup. Is it better? You want to know the difference, the Rabi would come into the plant and bless it thus it was better. That Rabi used to give my father all types of liquor but dad never touched it. He just smiled and thanked him.

Now as for cheap oil, who knows. i know I do not use it as just like many have said it is actually a small part of the total cost of operation for MOST
 
I go by personal experience, #1, and testing results if available, #2. With Amsoil I've seen both - I've seen the testing, and I've seen engines with MANY hours I've torn down, both 4 and 2-stroke, that flat amazed me. I can confidently say in that case, you DO get what you pay for. I've also seen oil tests of Walmart branded oil, and most would be shocked to find that it knocked some other more well-known-for-decades name brands right off their perches. It's not as bad as you would think!

A sort-of related topic, there's a running joke about Walmart batteries: NEVERstart. Funny thing is, each and every single Everstart battery I've used, regardless of the application from big diesels to lawn tractors, I've got a minimum of 8 years out of. I've heard similar stories all across the net in automotive, truck, motorcycle, ATV / dirt bike, and OPE (Outdoor Power Equipment) forums as well. Truth be told, there's only 3 battery manufacturers in the North American market, so no matter what brand you buy, it was built by one of those 3.

Oil threads are funny, since there's a lot of strong opinions about lots of oils. But facts are facts, and there's no getting around that. Sure, you can run cheap oil, but you'll be scraping carbon and rebuilding engines much sooner than if you had run a top tier oil, especially when things get "out-of-spec", like a coolant leak on a liquid cooled engine, or cooling fins and fans that get blocked off my mouse nests and mud on a air cooled engine. When that happens, you can bet I'd want the expensive oil in that engine, 2 or 4-stroke, air or liquid cooled. The expensive oil will live, while the cheaper oil probably won't.

Remember, I make good money because of cheap oil. :)

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Someone else's pic:
C44C9917-BD1F-4042-BD6B-1AECB7724BD9.jpeg
 
We run this “No smoke 2 stroke “ at work 50:1 in our demo saws oil company fills it dump a gallon in and filler up , stihl ts420’s and stihl blower packs concrete / and excavating company I’m on the Excavating side , no oil failure to this date sometimes that barrel takes a while to empty guys leave gas cans back of their crew trucks they don’t give a **** rain wind snow
 

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