Honestly, need some more info from the OP. Is it just hot starts that are causing the problem, or cold starts too? What choke starting procedures are you using?
Starting saws
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I bought a 3 cu in Jonsered in 1982,, that saw was perfect in winter.
BUT, if you ran it in the summer,, shut it off,, sometimes it would boil the fuel tank EMPTY!!
Part of that fuel just dumped, but, it seemed that some of that heated fuel flooded the engine.
Forget starting that saw for 2 hours.
The guy that sold it to me told me I had to idle the saw for a lot longer than you would imagine to cool the saw before shutdown.
THAT fixed the heated fuel problem.
The dealers story was that the saw was designed to run in a colder climate than Virginia,, hence, the saw heated itself,, on purpose!!
Maybe the Husky is designed for colder operation?
Could it be like the Stihl, and have a "Winter Air Diverter" that is installed in the wrong direction??
BUT, if you ran it in the summer,, shut it off,, sometimes it would boil the fuel tank EMPTY!!
Part of that fuel just dumped, but, it seemed that some of that heated fuel flooded the engine.
Forget starting that saw for 2 hours.
The guy that sold it to me told me I had to idle the saw for a lot longer than you would imagine to cool the saw before shutdown.
THAT fixed the heated fuel problem.
The dealers story was that the saw was designed to run in a colder climate than Virginia,, hence, the saw heated itself,, on purpose!!
Maybe the Husky is designed for colder operation?
Could it be like the Stihl, and have a "Winter Air Diverter" that is installed in the wrong direction??
jon@camano
ArboristSite Lurker
I own a Husqvarna 550 Mk1. I usually cold starts fine and runs very well. It can be a little difficult to restart when hot, however, try one pull on choke and the put the choke lever on high idle, just below the choke position. Usually works for me. Also, be sure to idle for a minute or so to cool down after a hard run to help cool down, and do not run out of fuel. Better to refuel at 3/4 empty rather than just about out. These are very good saws. You just need to learn their quirks.
Jon
Jon
Me THINKS yer dealer was blowin' Hot air up yer BLOOMERS. You should have SMACKED THE SCHeeT out of him and asked for a refund. My DAD had a new McCullough like that and couldn't give it away..
Lou Haverkamp (the Gambes store dealer/owner) never made it right.
Possibly, and probably,, but, it was a WAY superior answer compared to a shrug of the shoulders.
Possibly, the story was just a way to get the extended cool-down to stick in your head??
That Jonsered was my favorite all time saw,, until my SIL took it for a ride in the bucket of a JD 855,, that was the end of it.
The saw was 35 years old,, I had enjoyed it,, and I can not fault my SIL,,
"Never lend a chainsaw that you can not afford to loose"
My Stihl 029 Super never revved as high as the Jonsered,, the chain speed is the reason I liked the Jonsered.
The ONLY complaint I ever had with the saw was the heated gas on shut off.
I would imagine there is some other saw with a metal gas tank,, somewhere.??
I have had my mkII 550xp few weeks about . Cold I prime it 4 or 5 times, takes 4 or 5 pulls usually to get a pop and pretty near 5 pulls after to get it to stay running. The part throttle position works like it almost doesn't have one. If it worked like most normal saws i think it would start much better. Was expecting it to start very well when i saw it had a primer bulb. Thankfully it isn't extremely rough or hard pull to turn over the engine .
Warm starts on this saw haven't impressed me yet either. Hopefully it will get better as I get to know the saw or make some easy adjustments. Letting it idle 5 minutes before shutting it off every time is out of the question. I think if i can adjust part throttle up it would start better. Min
Warm starts on this saw haven't impressed me yet either. Hopefully it will get better as I get to know the saw or make some easy adjustments. Letting it idle 5 minutes before shutting it off every time is out of the question. I think if i can adjust part throttle up it would start better. Min
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sadly all saws even of the same model are not the same, you get ones that
are for whatever reason easy to start and work without fault.
I bought a new MS362 two years ago, I sold it two days later, way too much
pulling to get it to start, and I had no intention of playing games with the Stihl dealer, a new saw hard to start, no way, your doing something wrong, the computer says its perfect, I cut my losses and got rid of it,
I won't be arguing with computers in saws, less they be open source where we can fix them ourselves.
We bought 550s for our facilities ONCE , never again absolutely the worst consistent starters for beginners and in general.
I personally own some Husqvarna's and like them but I'd put the 550 in the same category as a mini mac. You couldn't give me one.
I personally own some Husqvarna's and like them but I'd put the 550 in the same category as a mini mac. You couldn't give me one.
hkstwn7
ArboristSite Lurker
The new operator and the instructor must follow the starting instructions. My 550 has been a very good saw
It allows me to cut more wood than any other saw I own as it is very lightweight and powerful.
It allows me to cut more wood than any other saw I own as it is very lightweight and powerful.
I wish there was a dislike button?
thenne1713
ArboristSite Operative
BUSHWACKER< you do not mention PROCEDURE, so let me outline and you respond? (Mine a 570xp, works well, consistently). 1) COLD you pull choke OUT, crank 2-3 (OR until pop), push choke back in and it starts next pull. 2) HOT= Pull choke out, then push BACK IN (to cock the FAST Idle), then pull and it starts. If your FAST idle= too slow, then turn screw in 1/2-turn and try, if not enough, add another 1/2-turn?
It would be helpful to know more about your specific operating circumstances such as altitude, air temp, etc. I have owned owned two new 550Xp Mk2s and there are a couple of things I experienced. Trying to start “by the book” wouldn’t always work, but once you learned the necessary technique you could start them easily and consistently.
When cold, try starting them WITHOUT choking them and WITHOUT using the primer bulb. Once they are warm every Husky Autotune saw I’ve owned would consistently start in the “hot start” position - choke lever down then back up to put the carb in part throttle position.
Letting them idle to cool down has never made any difference. I HAVE experienced very hard restart if you let them idle out of gas. I definitely avoid that.
BTW, I own LOTS of 50 & 60cc saws, Husky, Stihl, Echo, Mtronic, Autotune, etc. I do volunteer work and frequently I too give instruction to low time or no time sawyers. I buy non running saws off eBay, get them running, and give them away to other volunteers. My favorites are Husky 550s and Stihl 261Cs, both excellent saws. I will admit that I think the Husky Autotune can be a little more quirky to learn but once mastered they are every bit as reliable and, IMHO, more ergonomic saws to work with than Stihl.
I thought starting like that was frowned upon except for top handle saws, or a climber in a tree.
I guess I'm not in the super pro class of loggers yet.Only by insurance companies and lawyers...
You have to know the rules to break the rules, and understand when breaking one is actually safer, to be sure. I guess once you get used to drop starting in the tree, it becomes second nature to do it on the ground, too. I definitely agree a ground start, especially for novices is much safer.
I had not run my MS660 Magnum in at least five years,,
Today, I dumped the 1/2 tank of old gas refilled the fuel tank,, filled the oil tank,, dribbled about 1/4 teaspoon into the carb,,
and, by that time, I was too tired to bend over so I did the ;
"start a saw like a man, hanging onto the throttle with one hand holding it wide open, while shoving the saw away from you and yanking the cord with the other hand."
I was expecting it to take a number of pulls,, but, it started on the first pull!!
It did stall after 15 seconds, so I again I /4 teaspoon primed it ,, twice more,, then it kept running.
Probably, only 8 or 10 pulls total.
I did not hang onto the throttle, I was holding the wrap bar,, it balanced better like that.
If I knew it would start that easy, I might have set it on the ground,, I could have bent over for 10 pulls.,,, LOL!!
I start my 40cc saw like that but anything bigger I do the ground technique, my cs-400 almost starts just by touching the recoil. I'm only 5'4 so the drop technique is alil risky on bigger saws especially this one. If you can drop start this your a bad@ss for sure. Do you have the chain brake on when drop starting?
Of course I choke it until i get a pop which is usually 4 or 5 pulls, then I push the switch lever down where I assume is fast idle and it's usually 4 or 5 more pulls to get it to hit and stay running. When it starts fast idle doesn't feel much different then idle. Don't recall messing with fast idles much in the past, but i need to adjust this 1 I believe.
Should have the chain brake on when starting a saw in all positions i believe .
Can get a faster pull drop starting. I push the saw away from me some as I pull the starter rope toward me.
I think owners manual warn against drop starting.
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