Super Splitter Bearings and Mods

[epicklein22]

I've been having trouble with my super splitter as of late not returning well. I either have to push it back or keep the the beam lubed up with pb blaster to work. I'm gonna replace the bearings and see if that helps, but I was wondering what other people have done to improve their super splitters via modifications. I'm thinking stronger return springs and mulitple bearings under the ram (the spring and bearing that help the ram "float"), instead of just one currently.

I have about 250 cords on it and have been happy in general.

Anyone have any good part numbers for the bearings and maybe some stronger return springs? I know I can get them through the dealer, but I live 10 minutes from McMaster Carr.

 

[nathon918]

id look into some better bearings.
mcmaster usually sells cheap generic brand bearings and cam followers, they do OK for light duty, and clean environments, but for something like on a super splitter, id recommend something of better quality than what mcmaster offers...

 

[Steve NW WI]

At 250 cords, I'm guessing your return springs ain't got the spring they used to. I'd sure start there, unless the bearings are locked up or close to it, I don't think they're your problem.

 

[sunfish]

I've only run around 60 cords through mine and haven't had any trouble with the ram returning. I did upgrade to the three bearing deal on the engagement cam. But can't see how the two extra bearing under the ram would help anything, so I'm not doing that.

You need to check the single bearing on the spring that pushes up on the rack. It needs to be clean and free, as does the track it follows on the beam.

I keep the beam and ram clean and dry on mine, but the gears and bearings lubed.

Best bet is to call Paul...

 

[davec]

I have the not wanting to return problem too. Not as much run through it, but it doesn't want to return on it's own very well. I have not done anything much to improve it other than scraping the I-beam clean. Will be interested to hear your solution.

 

[sunfish]

I have the not wanting to return problem too. Not as much run through it, but it doesn't want to return on it's own very well. I have not done anything much to improve it other than scraping the I-beam clean. Will be interested to hear your solution.

Check the bearing behind the ram that runs on top the beam.

 

[PLAYINWOOD]

with my Gripo which is basically the same, spray cleaner and compressed air in the bearing that rides on the ram,if that fails replace.
Yes the spring does get weak, I cut about an inch of coil on both sides and it worked but eventually purchased a new one.

If someone finds an aftermarket bearing I'd like to know where, my dealer charges me about 20 bucks a pop

 

[InTheFlow]

I have a similar problem with my new DR RapidFire PRO-XL. Little slivers of wood get stuck between the wear plate and beam which causes it to bind on return. Sometimes I have to really hit it to get the ram un-stuck so it will retract.

Is that what is happening to yours?

 

[davec]

No, mine is just "lazy". You need to nudge it back. Sure sometimes it gets jammed from crap or a split that goes wrong, but that isn't the primary problem.

 

[nathon918]

with my Gripo which is basically the same, spray cleaner and compressed air in the bearing that rides on the ram,if that fails replace.
Yes the spring does get weak, I cut about an inch of coil on both sides and it worked but eventually purchased a new one.

If someone finds an aftermarket bearing I'd like to know where, my dealer charges me about 20 bucks a pop

$20 seems a little low, more than likely low quality probably why you have had to replace them...
id look for something servicable/greasable, look into RBC bearings, or something from Emerson.

 

[Matthew Corwin]

Hy Guys, I had a similar problem with my first old Supersplitter that I rebuilt. The head did not want to return or would only return part way. I replaced the brass wear plate under the log pusher and the spring under the rack and the return springs (none of them very expensive parts).When the brass wear plate is worn it opens a gap that crud can get into more easily and jamb the rack. If you don't want to buy a new one you can also remove shims from the side guides to close the gap. After that the only thing that will really cause friction on the return is the alignment of the bearing on the rack lift spring. If it is not tracking straight it will cause drag on the side guides. Slide the rack out by hand and then as you return it fairly slowly by hand see what it does. Adjust the bearing wheel so that it wanders along down the center line as much as possible. If you have worn a groove down one side of the beam you may need to fill it with weld and grind it flat.
So far as the bearings, in my opinion the quality of the bearing is not that important. The bearings are not being used for there intended purpose in a precision application.

 

[Matthew Corwin]

So far as the bearings go, in my opinion the quality of the bearing is not that important. The bearings are not being used for their intended purpose as in a precision application. They are subjected to allot of side pressure and rocking that most bearings are not designed for. Most bearings are not really designed to be used as wheels and all the side pressure causes them to wear out quickly. I think that a standard grade shielded bearing will last longer and work better than a high grade bearing in this application because the standard/lower grade bearing runs looser (less friction). Just use the cheaper bearings and change more often.

More bearings cannot be added to the Supersplit "J Model' side guides because the rack is bolted directly to the pusher and plate that is directly bolted to the side guides. The reason that there are no rear bolts/bearings on the 'J' guides is so that the whole assembly can tilt with the rack. On the 'HD' model, the rack is hinged to the push plate so that the head never tilts and there are 4 bearings under the beam on the HD. All that said, I am no bearing expert and I plan to ask when I'm at the bearing store next time.

All the new SS machines now use 2 bearings on the camlock, Paul says it's a better design. I just changed from the three to the two bearing design and when you look at them side by side the new design does look stronger because the outside bearings did not have any outer support before and now they do.

 

[angelo c]

Some times it needs to be "leveled" differently too. If Im on a hill or sideways it slows the return as well. I did replace all my bearings and readjusted all the bolts and it made a big difference for mine. keep in mind mine is an old unit with many many hours under it and many many more to go.

Call Paul as he is great with the parts, shipping and prices are never a shocker as well.

its usually an "adjustment" issue...its just what is causing the mis-adjustment that needs to be uncovered. The spring strength is rarely the issue by itself.

 

[mr.finn]

I have had the same issue with mine, J model. I keep the bearing clean and lubed and also scrape the beam from time to time. I have maybe 10-15 cord through it. It has the lazy issue, just doesn't have the immediate return all the time. I have learned however to make sure the bearing that runs on the beam is always clean and lubed. One little piece of gunk and it stops the bearing from rolling which over time can leave a groove in the beam which isn't a good thing. I always check first now to pull the ram out and see if the bearing rollls before splitting. Can be stubborn when it gets cold.

 

[ChopperDan]

Sunfish
What do you use for rack lube/grease?

Thanks,
Dan

 

[epicklein22]

A new bearing on top of the beam did the trick. My old one still rolled, but it was rough enough to cause a problem. I spray the bearings all the time, mostly with PB Blaster, as it doesn't attract too much dirt.

IMO, a different bearing on top of the beam would be welcomed, or maybe a small wheel. The bearing is just too small and any gunk can cause problems with it rolling or getting jammed up.

 

[Circle B MN]

Keep the rail clean and swap the roller bearing as needed. Also keep the yoke that holds the bearing free of gunk. If it gets too gooped up the bearing will drag and get a flat spot. The flat spot will keep the return from working properly. The return springs don't need much umph at all if the roller is working right. Check ebay for a 3/4" roller yoke bearing and you'll find them cheap. I've got an actual part number in the shop....the cold dark shop, waaaay down the drive covered in snow. Maybe tomorrow

 

[flyboy553]

Huh! I thought these were the Fiskars of the splitter world! You guys have trouble with 'em?? I'm shocked I tell you, shocked!

Ted

 

[angelo c]

Huh! I thought these were the Fiskars of the splitter world! You guys have trouble with 'em?? I'm shocked I tell you, shocked!

Ted

They all need maintenance...some just need it after they cure cancer...
Seriously they are so bullet proof you almost forget they do need lookin after.

 

[flyboy553]

They all need maintenance...some just need it after they cure cancer...


Oh, I am sure. People always brag and idolize their Super splitters and Fiskars and I just kinda like given 'em crap. Same as I do anyone who is a Chevy only guy. Or a Ford Guy. Or a Dodge guy. I am sure they are a wonderful machine! In spite of all that maintenance they need! lol

Ted