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Jacob J. said:
Actually, the pawls are the same. I know what you mean about the same basic flywheel, but the 385 flywheel is heavier because it's part of an overall heavier reciprocating assembly (piston/crank/connecting rod.) A modified 385 with a lightened piston does quite well with the 372 flywheel as its' less resistance provides for faster acceleration. But the trade off is a lower volume of air movement at high speed, but that can mitigated with the modifications to the cylinder and muffler. However- the stock saws have different flywheels for a reason- because they're different saws intended for a different workload.
Click to expand...

I have an unmolested 385xp carcass sitting on my shelf. It came in with a flywheel that looks EXACTLY like a 362-372 (or a 61-272 for that matter) in every respect including fin count and the thickness of the inertia ring. Husky may have changed up flywheels at some point, adding a more massive one or perhaps even reverting to the lighter one later; who knows. I just know that every 385 I've torn down so far (about 12 now) has had a flywheel that is identical to a 372 flywheel, even stamped with the same 503 51-15-0X part number family (as you likely know the last number in Husky's P/N system is simply the revision number).
 
Any interest in a Bosch sawz-all? It's basically new, only a couple hours on it. I got it in a trade with other stuff.
I'm open to any (non boxstore) saw projects, parts, bars, chain... etc. PM me with offers. I might be able to find my pm box on this completely user-unfriendly, hard to navigate format we have now. :mad:

IMG_0193.jpg
IMG_0194.jpg
 
Does anyone know what chainsaw the Hilti chop saw is based on? Is it an Efco or a Redmax or what? I got one in today and noticed the front 'oil tank' cap and realized it was once a chainsaw like a Husky 375K.
 
Almost forgot... I need the recoil rope pulley for a Troy-bilt TB250B leaf blower. Spring and housing are fine, the plastic pulley that holds the rope shattered.
 
the 372 and 385 flywheel can look the same and be close to the same part number but the actual counterweights within the flywheel will be heavier like J.J says. it only makes sense that the heavy rotating assembly would have a heavier flywheel. depending on what your using the saw for you might actually benefit swapping flywheels. using a lighter flywheel on a 385 with a short bar might make a snappy monster in the wood. i find the 385 to be a torque monster stock and the heavier flywheel could be part of the reason. i might have a spare 385 flywheel if i haven't traded it away already but i know for a fact that it isn't an xpg flywheel.
 
westcoaster90 said:
the 372 and 385 flywheel can look the same and be close to the same part number but the actual counterweights within the flywheel will be heavier like J.J says. it only makes sense that the heavy rotating assembly would have a heavier flywheel. depending on what your using the saw for you might actually benefit swapping flywheels. using a lighter flywheel on a 385 with a short bar might make a snappy monster in the wood. i find the 385 to be a torque monster stock and the heavier flywheel could be part of the reason. i might have a spare 385 flywheel if i haven't traded it away already but i know for a fact that it isn't an xpg flywheel.
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I have a frankensaw (359 stuffed into a 350) and it has a 350 flywheel that has been lightened 1.5 oz(to make it all fit) plus going from 359 flywheel to 350 flywheel is a big step down as well. Coupled with 20deg ignition advance it is really snappy, I don't know if it hurts torque, but that 350 will keep up with a stock 562xp. So your theory may be true!
 
Homelite410 said:
I have a frankensaw (359 stuffed into a 350) and it has a 350 flywheel that has been lightened 1.5 oz(to make it all fit) plus going from 359 flywheel to 350 flywheel is a big step down as well. Coupled with 20deg ignition advance it is really snappy, I don't know if it hurts torque, but that 350 will keep up with a stock 562xp. So your theory may be true!
Click to expand...

i saw your thread on "squeak". that was a really cool build.
 
Well, turns out I need that 920 air filter cover after all...the one I got is not tall enough to clear the sparkplug

Anyone help me out?

PM me!

Thanks!

Andy
 
Hey pogo I might have what you are looking for. If you want just an ugly cover and tensioner or a entire parts saw let me know. The complete saw is probably a carb kit from a runner I just don't care to mess with it. 14" picco b & c. Looking for 036 top end, 044, 064 parts, nice 181SE rear handle etc. Let me know if I don't respond in this thread pm me.IMG_1282[1].JPGIMG_1279[1].JPGIMG_1276[1].JPG
 
While I'm in here I have parts for
-TS 420
-TS 700
-FS85
-Redmax gz4000
-032 recoil, flywheel, crankcase with crank, crank spins nice, case has damage from the what looks like years of being stored with the piston on it and the crank smacking back and forth but would still seal a cylinder to it
-009 handle
-Nice craftsman 2.0 / 14" red all mag, ran great but i think a something happened to the clutch, chain turns with starter cord?
-Echo husky and stihl random trimmer and blower parts.
-019T parts depending on what pogo wants.

I'm looking for an oem 036 top end, 044 parts, a lot of 064 parts, 181SE rear handle in nice shape or?
 
Have a new Chinese carb for Husky 350 for saw with primer bulb. Mine does not have the primer bulb so looking to swap for known good carb for 350 without primer bulb setup/barb on it. If yours is new I can add some $$ to it or have some parts to trade depending on what might be needed.


Rick
 
BigDaddyR said:
Have a new Chinese carb for Husky 350 for saw with primer bulb. Mine does not have the primer bulb so looking to swap for known good carb for 350 without primer bulb setup/barb on it. If yours is new I can add some $$ to it or have some parts to trade depending on what might be needed.


Rick
Click to expand...

What's wrong with your carb? Is it a real Zama??? Those are usually very good.
 
nmurph said:
What's wrong with your carb? Is it a real Zama??? Those are usually very good.
Click to expand...

Carb was totally missing from the saw when I got it. I got the choke, air filter/filter mount, carb screws all together on the bay. Didn't realize the diff when I got the carb and ended up with one for a primer bulb set up. Pretty much going from the bottom up. New seals, bearings, ring, cleaned up piston and cylinder. Figured I'd get a new carb for it to make life easy and take some guess work out of it.
 
Free (you pay shipping):

Homelite Zip parts.

I pulled the top end because someone needed it, and now I have the rest of the saw, which is in pretty nice shape. The tank is very clean. The clutch cover has a crack at the top of it.
 

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