2000ssm6
Stihl User
Sorry! I cant help myself sometimes!To you and 2000ssm!!
We could drink beer and talk saws if we were closer!
Same here
, I'd love to run some of your Dolmars. That 5100 is a screamer.
Think I need a second saw!
- Thread starter kavery
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Same here
, I'd love to run some of your Dolmars. That 5100 is a screamer.
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
BLAH BLAH BLAH....come up with something new. Thanks for your constructive criticism Niko.
mowoodchopper
Polar Bear
BLAH BLAH BLAH....come up with something new. Thanks for your constructive criticism Niko.
the same could be said for all brands at one time or another!Like I have said before numbers dont mean s*** to me! I wanna run it myself!
gilraine
ArboristSite Guru
there in lies the difference, i buck them as they fall most of the time.. even on skidded logs, a good semi chisel helps a bunch.. I would also run skip before the little bars, I hate to have to bend over that much..
Wild Knight
ArboristSite Guru
:agree2:
Vibes
Addicted to ArboristSite
''Their name products aren't in the mix with the big boys,'' tell that to the landscapers around here. I don't see many of them pulling around Husky trimmers on there trailors. You'll see the new guys with there shining orange and white trimmers but the guys with 20 or so years of weed beating in mostly have very old looking Shindiawas.
If I was a logger I would definately buy Stihl. I Rode Rt 220 from Pa. down to N. Carolina and the only other OPE I saw the whole way down was an old Homelite dealer. But for cutting fire wood save your money on the saw and buy a nicer wood burner with the savings.
If I was a logger I would definately buy Stihl. I Rode Rt 220 from Pa. down to N. Carolina and the only other OPE I saw the whole way down was an old Homelite dealer. But for cutting fire wood save your money on the saw and buy a nicer wood burner with the savings.
fi your cutn quite a bit off wood in the 30inch range id swing for 28" bar. the bar is just alittle longer than ghte 25 but will be closer to makn a single pas through most 30" wood ehrn buckn you could over buck alittle and kick the round off when the cuts done all from one side of the log.
buck 30" wood with alittle under powerd saw with 18-20" bar (361 026) then switch to a 70cc running 28 and youl buck the hole round faster than the samll saw makes cut on one side of the round.
the 044-440 even 460 isnt much heavier than the 361
buck with just 70cc get two bars for it a 28 and 20 and youl do most all your buckn very fast and probly save your back becauses youl be takn breaks haven a beer between trees because your buckn them so dang fast.
buck 30" wood with alittle under powerd saw with 18-20" bar (361 026) then switch to a 70cc running 28 and youl buck the hole round faster than the samll saw makes cut on one side of the round.
the 044-440 even 460 isnt much heavier than the 361
buck with just 70cc get two bars for it a 28 and 20 and youl do most all your buckn very fast and probly save your back becauses youl be takn breaks haven a beer between trees because your buckn them so dang fast.
2000ssm6
Stihl User
Pros run Stihl, echo, and husky trimmers here, never seen a Shinny. After getting a 100RX myself I can see why they sell so good.
HuskyPete
ArboristSite Member
I have a small firewood business that I set up when I retired. I think I average about 440 cords per year. I run my 372 probably 90% of the time and I absolutely love it. It's the best all around saw I have ever had. May not be the lightest, most powerful or whatever, but it is the best saw I have run, period. Make your next saw at least 75cc and what ever brand you choose you won't be sorry.
60 cc saw with a 20" bar will do fine with a 30" tree. My 036 has done it tons of times. Yep, gotta cut from both sides of the trunk, no big deal [I'm not talking about production cutting, just serious firewood]. I have added a 441 to the family and use it for those trees as of a few months ago, but I just got it for fun and for an additional saw in case the other one is down.
Nothing wrong with getting a 70 cc 'cuz you want to. Don't need it for only a few trees like that. [Didn't stop me from gettin' the 441....]
Nothing wrong with getting a 70 cc 'cuz you want to. Don't need it for only a few trees like that. [Didn't stop me from gettin' the 441....]
A second saw?
Only one more, c'mon surely you need more that that .
My thoughts exactly. Give the man a few months here on A/S and we'll be seeing pictures of his new 390XP or 660 Magnum.
WPanhandler
ArboristSite Operative
I cut up a 36" dead and dried Red Oak with my Poulan 2300 CVA [38cc]with 18" bar. did the job just fine. Would I do it again yes if I had to. took me about 3 months to burn the whole tree in my leaky stove in my drafty house. Years later I got the occasion to use my FIL's Poulan 3300 [55cc]with 20" bar much faster for a simular job still took most of a week to get the winters wood cut split and hauled,after work of course. I got tired of wood cutting taking so long and did need a back up saw as my Backup saw died. So I bought A Stihl 441 29" bar [71cc] because I wanted a significant step up in power. Now a simular red oak will be cut up in a few of tanks of fuel and be ready for the splitter by noon or so, assuming that I get to the woods by 9am. I still have and occasionally use the 2300 CVA, mainly for clearing fence rows and like work. 3300 is the back up saw, a real good work horse. I Fell, buck,and limb with the 441 as it is that much faster than the other 2 saws.
wallet not considered, the smallest saw I would purchase if you are really concerned wth getting out of the woods with a load of wood in a short time is approx 60cc considering the work you are doing. I am not sorry I bought My stihl. I have a good dealer who is close for any parts or service I want or need. This is just as important as which saw you purchase, as a broken saw won't do your job. make sure you are happy with purchase and dealer whatever brand you choose!!!
Monkeyhanger
ArboristSite Guru
I've batted that one around my head many times and still have no conclusion:
All things being equal: Longer bar should have each cutter doing less work for each log, and last longer between filings, but take longer to file. Figuring out time for grabbing the files and doing it, the longer bar should be a slight time savings.
But are all things equal? Does dirty wood tend to dull cutters at some rate porportional to total cutting time rather than cutter engagement time?
Hi,
it only takes a fraction of a second to completely dull a chain on a 24" bar if there is gravel in the dirt for example and still less than a few seconds if the log is just dirty. Happens faster than you would believe. A single cut can be enough to completely dull the chain. The time it takes to sharpen all the teeth is much longer for a 24" compared to a 18" or shorter. The amount of wood each tooth cuts is a distant second as a wear factor if you have to cut dirty wood. Remember that with clean wood you can cut all day regardless of the bar length and that chains compensate wear up to a point (because of the softer steel underneath the chrome) which means the difference in tooth wear is too small to be of any relevance. Using semi chisel chains helps, using chains with extra thick chrome helps too as does using carbide chains. Of those three choices two are pretty expensive...
I use bars from 13" to 24" and I can garantee that I have never noticed a time saving (because of reduced wear and slower sharpening) on the long bars. I only use the long bar for felling big trees or for ripping logs if I can't split them. Other reasons for short bars are: faster sharpening, more maneouverable, safer when limbing hardwoods (easier to know where the tip is - kickback!), kickback is easier to control, less bar oil needed (expensive here), faster bar maintenance.
As for long bars they have advantages but also disadvantages too: useless and dangerous for limbing hardwoods (lose sight of the tip, you risk kickback), bar and chain take longer to maintain, needs far more bar oil (did I mention that it's expensive here?), feels like wielding a telegraph pole when limbing softwoods, I find kickback harder to control.
In general I find shorter bars are safer and generally more practical, if you can't drop a 30" tree with a 16" bar then you are lacking some important skills/knowledge and should maybe brush up a little on some basic techniques. If you can but just can't be bothered then that is just fine.
Bye
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Gregford
ArboristSite Operative
What's wrong with you?
.....everyone needs a second...and third...and fourth saw!
.....everyone needs a second...and third...and fourth saw!
Even a 250 shouldn't take 10 minutes for 1 cut, is the muffler screen still in, if it's clogged you'll have no power. Maybe the high jet is way rich or way lean, if it revs really high with no load turn the high out untill it slows down a little, if it doesn't rev very high (Check the muffler screen first) turn the high in untill it really screams then back out untill it slows down a little. A assume your using a sharp chain and keeping it out of the dirt, a dull chain won't cut no matter how much power you have. There's nothing wrong with buying a bigger saw either, but even my gutless MS170 wouldn't take anywhere near 10 minutes for 1 cut with the bar buried . Steve
wigglesworth
Booned
Not blasphemy, but a good attempt to clear some shindawa equipment that's collecting dust on the shelf. LOL
That's funny! I thought I needed a second saw back in March (2 1/2 months ago), which is what brought me here. Last week saw number 4 arrived via UPS. It's not a slippery slope, it's a cliff! And there are plenty around here willing to "help" you over the edge. 
No Regrets!!!!
No Regrets!!!!
Wild Knight
ArboristSite Guru
That's funny! I thought I needed a second saw back in March (2 1/2 months ago), which is what brought me here. Last week saw number 4 arrived via UPS. It's not a slippery slope, it's a cliff! And there are plenty around here willing to "help" you over the edge.
No Regrets!!!!
So, when is the 441 arriving?!?
Unfortunately, it's probably going to be awhile. I've been on a tear lately. Saws aren't the only things I've been buying. Had to get a new backpack blower and kombi w/edger and trimmer attachments. Besides, shouldn't the 441 be safe in 2010. I went ahead and picked up a nice little 026 for now. I figure the Jred 820 will handle anything big in the unlikely event that I run accross anything that sized in the near future. I'm pretty sure I will get something in the 441 to 460 range within the next year. I would kind of like to see a 461. That would be sweet!!!
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