What Saw(s) Should I Get?

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Thanks Mike. I'd be looking used. Can get a used 390 for well less than a new 576.
How many hours strait do you cut wood for ,? I can pack a 660 for 4-6 hours ,But i sweat a heck of a lot less with a 440 in the same time and still cut the same amount of wood . Something to think about for firewood .
 
2186=385
2188=390
Thought the 385/2186 are no longer availible. Do not know for sure. In the early 385/390 days the clutch side crank bearing would spin in the crankcase or on the crank often enough that the saw was not well regarded. Fairly well known for dumping bearings in general for a time, do not know these days.
The 365/372 had the same bearing issues they were more common as they sold a lot more 365/372 than the 385/390. I do not remember replacing spun crank cases on the 365/372. Just bearings and cranks.
 
2186=385
2188=390
Thought the 385/2186 are no longer availible. Do not know for sure. In the early 385/390 days the clutch side crank bearing would spin in the crankcase often enough that the saw was not well regarded. Fairly well known for dumping bearings in general for a time, do not know these days.
The 365/372 had the same bearing issues they were more common as they sold a lot more 365/372 than the 385/390. I do not remember replacing spun crank cases on the 365/372. Just bearings and cranks.
How does one determine what date range are suspect for spun bearings?
 
I would suggest that you talk to a dealer that sold a good volume of those saws. I do not know of the date, Jonsered was functionally done around here for large saws before the change and Husqvarna had and has little presence. Might ask the saw builders on this site.

Okay, so It looks like around 04 there was a change to the PTO bearing and seal.
 
Any idea how long of an overlap there was with both saws availible?

The 390 was rolled out in 2006 and the 385 went out in the US in 2010, methinks. Or, at least 2010 was the last time I saw a new one in a dealer. I would like to note I have never had an issue with any of the 390s on my crew from 2009-2014, when I moved out of reach of a Husqvarna dealership.

I don't know why the 385 continued to have issues where the 390 was straightened out. It may have been due to the 385 not revving as high and having to lug more, causing more extreme torsional forces. But that's just a rough guess from a civil, not mechanical engineer.
 
The 390 was rolled out in 2006 and the 385 went out in the US in 2010, methinks. Or, at least 2010 was the last time I saw a new one in a dealer. I would like to note I have never had an issue with any of the 390s on my crew from 2009-2014, when I moved out of reach of a Husqvarna dealership.

I don't know why the 385 continued to have issues where the 390 was straightened out. It may have been due to the 385 not revving as high and having to lug more, causing more extreme torsional forces. But that's just a rough guess from a civil, not mechanical engineer.

Thank you, feeling much older and out of date. I am going out to touch a 2095, it will make it all better. 5 years ago, next thing people will tell me there will be no more 660s...5 years ago...really need to get more Husqvarnas...
 
So at this point I'm leaning towards picking up one of the clean 85 or 90 cc saws on the trading post. The modded 70 cc saws are selling at a pretty good premium. I'd rather send a clean stock saw to Randy myself and know it's all good inside than risk paying extra for a saw that potentially has been flogged pretty well already.
 
And frugal! Not to knock a brand, but both Brad & Randy seem to recommend 32:1 for some of the larger hot running huskies due to bearing concerns, but have not noted similar failures in the Stihl saws running 40:1. I don't make this stuff up, so don't get mad at me for it.

40:1 with a good oil s/b just fine, and the info from the oil thread said the Amsoil provides a little better protection than Sithl oil, so I'm comfortable with what I'm using. Has worked well so far.
 
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