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That's what you say when you pee outside at 20 below.

That rite there is some funny stuff!!

I hate ethanol but have never gone out of my way to avoid it.
I have never had a fuel related failure/issue with my chainsaw.
I use good oil and ethanol shield in my fuel. I run the hell out of my chainsaw when cutting firewood, get home from the woods and pop a cold frosty and NEVER EVER think about the "Ethanol Voo-Doo" in my fuel.

Now, can we have a serious discussion concerning FUEL MIX??? :confused: If a bottle of mix calls for 2.5 gal. of gas and I use only 2.3 gal. should I have a bacon samwitch before I get in the truck? :dizzy:
 
Fact: Engines designed for leaded gas have soft valve seats, unleaded ruins the valve seats. Install new valve seats it can run unleaded.

Fact: ethanol shrinks rubber seals, causes air leaks, ruins saws. again insert flex fuel argument here for better seals.

Fact: ethanol is hygroscopic and absorbers water from the atmosphere. it is also a solvent when it settles out of the gas/oil and washes off the oil layer and rusts your bearings. When it mixes with mater vapor it settles out of your gas, Its the octane controller. Suddenly your gas is sitting in the low 80's for octane rating and your detonating all over your sexy squish band.

I have a lot of old saws, I'm not trying to find rubber from the 1960's. I DON"T, i don't mean try, USE ETHANOL IN 2 Strokes. It has countless downsides and only one unrelated upside.

The only good ethanol is Stolichnaya and should only be ran in my 4 stroke liver. It kills me to see you guys who know 90%, to this guys 10%, talkin enough #### to make him think his correct information isn't. How do people learn. There are no dumb questions unless you have asked it 3 times in a row. (this op may have)
 
Fact: Engines designed for leaded gas have soft valve seats, unleaded ruins the valve seats. Install new valve seats it can run unleaded.

Fact: ethanol shrinks rubber seals, causes air leaks, ruins saws. again insert flex fuel argument here for better seals.

Fact: ethanol is hygroscopic and absorbers water from the atmosphere. it is also a solvent when it settles out of the gas/oil and washes off the oil layer and rusts your bearings. When it mixes with mater vapor it settles out of your gas, Its the octane controller. Suddenly your gas is sitting in the low 80's for octane rating and your detonating all over your sexy squish band.

I have a lot of old saws, I'm not trying to find rubber from the 1960's. I DON"T, i don't mean try, USE ETHANOL IN 2 Strokes. It has countless downsides and only one unrelated upside.

The only good ethanol is Stolichnaya and should only be ran in my 4 stroke liver. It kills me to see you guys who know 90%, to this guys 10%, talkin enough #### to make him think his correct information isn't. How do people learn. There are no dumb questions unless you have asked it 3 times in a row. (this op may have)

Fact I've never seen a saw with valves.

Fact they've designed intake boots and fuel lines to handle ethanol

Fact performance wont vary enough to have a noticeable difference in production.
 
Fact I've never seen a saw with valves.

Reed valves, soft aluminum or plastic seats on the intake side and a couple with steel seats for the big old flapper in the muffler. The evil big 10% e does not seem to harm these though, and you have to hand it to Mcculloch to find a way to put a reed after a piston ported cylinder for the general public to purchase.

Fact they've designed intake boots and fuel lines to handle ethanol

Since the big evil e has been available since before I was born it took them long enough. Henry Ford is laughing in his grave.

Fact performance wont vary enough to have a noticeable difference in production. 10% big evil e seems to cost me about 5-10% fuel mileage, power wise, I could not tell the difference.

Oh well, when it gets over 15% then a lot of garage blending will happen, or folks will be buying up all the David Bradleys, PMCs and such.
 
Those weren't the type of "valves" that were being referred to. The reeds I've seen that were thin enough to consider prone were made from carbon fiber. Fact of the matter is they'll wear out long before this devastating ethanol kills it.
 
The fact is that ethanol cannot absorb enough moisture from the atmosphere to cause a problem. It can cause a problem if the tanks have condsenation or water intrusion, but that is not ethanol's fault and can be equally problematic for non-E gasoline. The octane rating E10 will lose about 3pts over several months, but OPE is generally designed to run on 89, so if premium loses a few points it's not a big deal. Ethanol is harmful to oiler rubbers which were not designed to be tolerant, but for the last 10 years or so, OPE rubber has been manufactured with E in mind. If you keep it relatively fresh in a SEALED can (I stick with two months or less), use a good sythetic oil with a fuel stabilizer added, and know when to stop your saw when the chain gets dull, E is non-factor.

Now, don't get me started in the politics of E...I think it is a total farce and there are several valid reasons not to use E in fuel like the fact that is drives up food costs, drives down the MPG of vehicles, and keeps exploration and development of US's oil reserves in check . But to cry the sky is falling just because there is a little corn liquor in your saw's tank is just ludicrous.
 
I'm with murph on this. For now I'm done with this thread and topic. I'd rather argue about saws
 
I never had any E related problems when i used it,i have E Free 91 octane available 10 minutes away so i would rather use that but i won't sweat using E10 if i have to.
 
I'm afraid to ask what "frothy eloquence" might be.

Thats where you have your hand wrapped around the top handle and hold your pinkie out. Just doing my part to teach some culture . Lol. :msp_biggrin:
 
:msp_biggrin: if it isn't and you buy it I'll port it free. If it is a knock off then you owe me a glass of sweet tea

If I could check it out (P/C...not the country of origin), I would think about it. The thing is, the pistons for those saws are $125 OEM, and there't not a Meteor, only Golf for aftermarket.
 
If I could check it out (P/C...not the country of origin), I would think about it. The thing is, the pistons for those saws are $125 OEM, and there't not a Meteor, only Golf for aftermarket.

It's something a few people have run into. Most don't see the point of $125 piston. But I've seen the OEM jugs get pretty nasty and clean up. But if it's not OEM from the get go there really isn't much point in sinking that much in a poor quality cylinder.
 
It's something a few people have run into. Most don't see the point of $125 piston. But I've seen the OEM jugs get pretty nasty and clean up. But if it's not OEM from the get go there really isn't much point in sinking that much in a poor quality cylinder.

I wouldn't put anything into the cylinder-

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/243912.htm
 
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