Best quality oil for fuel mix?

[dswensen]

OK, let's start some new ridiculousness.

If the exact ratio is so dammed important that it must be calculated mathematically, how do we make SURE that every last molecule of oil leaves the little bottle and ends up in the fuel can?

Are you all letting the little bottle drain into the fuel can overnight? Be careful, some might evaporate!!!

EDIT: Well apparently, some folks can't recognize sarcasm when they read it...

 

[Vermonster]

OK, let's start some new ridiculousness.

If the exact ratio is so dammed important that it must be calculated mathematically, how do we make SURE that every last molecule of oil leaves the little bottle and ends up in the fuel can?

Are you all letting the little bottle drain into the fuel can overnight? Be careful, some might evaporate!!!

I pour a little gas in to the oil bottle after it stops pouring when "empty". Then shake it up to try and extract all the oil and add it to my mix.

 

[7sleeper]

As I usually quote myself

As I've said here to many times I don't care what name is one the bottle as long as it is
1. fullsynthetic for air cooled engines
2. fullfills the folowing norms API TC, JASO FC/FD, ISO L-EGD

Then it's ok for me. The above norms dictate
Spezifizierung nach ISO-L-Norm (european norm)
Class => Performance
ISO-L-EGB (Global GB) => middle(= JASO FB)
ISO-L-EGC (Global GC) => middle and smokeless (= JASO FC)
ISO-L-EGD (Global GD) => high performance and smokeless (> JASO FD)
Spezifizierung nach API-Norm (us norm)
Class => Performance
API-TA (TSC-1) => Mopeds
API-TB (TSC-2) => Motorscooters and Motorcycles
API-TC (TSC-3) => high performance engines
API-TD (TSC-4) => Outboardengines equivalent to NMMA TC-WII
Spezifizierung nach JASO-Norm (japanese norm)
Class => Performance
JASO (M345) FA => low
JASO (M345) FB => middle
JASO (M345) FC => middle and smokeless
JASO (M345) FD => high performance and smokeless
Translated by me from the german wikipedia page. http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schmieröl
Stihl HP Ultra does NOT fullfill the top norms!
Randy sorry to derail your thread but I thought it was driffting off anyhow.
7

7

 

[XSKIER]

I pour a little gas in to the oil bottle after it stops pouring when "empty". Then shake it up to try and extract all the oil and add it to my mix.

I thought every body already knew to do that? Don't you remember mom putting some water in the ketchup, shake it up, more ketchup?

 

[Vermonster]

I thought every body already knew to do that? Don't you remember mom putting some water in the ketchup, shake it up, more ketchup?

I guess some may have missed that demonstration.

 

[jughead500]

yeah but so much water makes mater soup.

 

[shootingarts]

Pulled my muffler while I was piddling around earlier today. Found an oily looking piston and cylinder that looks like new. I'm happy at forty-some-odd to one. When I get through burning this last batch of pre-mix I'm going to Belray H1-R mainly because there is a dealer only seven miles away, a minor miracle out here in the boonies. Going 40:1 on the oil then a dash of whatever stabilizer I have handy.

Hu

 

[BKrusher]

Just finished the last of my stihl ultra mix and mixed up a gallon of Bel Ray H1R w/ 91 octane ethanol free. Ran about two tanks through my masterminded 261cm at 32:1. No smoke and it does smell different, not a big deal for me, but anyways saw ran well and will use this H1R for now.

 

[066blaster]

I pour a little gas in to the oil bottle after it stops pouring when "empty". Then shake it up to try and extract all the oil and add it to my mix.

I have never done that. But I mostly mix right at the gas station. I just put a little less gas in. Also it wasn't too long ago a lot of oil came in plastic pouches.

 

[Vermonster]

I have never done that. But I mostly mix right at the gas station. I just put a little less gas in. Also it wasn't too long ago a lot of oil came in plastic pouches.

The total final volume and ratio of the mix doesn't change in my procedure.

 

[ethar]

Like Larry said a few pages back and if you'll look into it alot of these oils are all made by the same company and it goes into whatever branded bottle and voila it's priced by the name not the quality of oil. Alot has to do with the age of the saw newer saws are all 40 to 50 to 1 older saws can range from 20 on up. I've had some older loggers say run 15:1 30:1 20:1. And nowadays alot of the premature wear has to do with the ethanol in the gas not the oil. Alot is preference also, some people like synthetic some don't. And the only reason a dealer will say warranty void for not using our oil is money reasons not because their oil is anymore special or equipment specific.

 

[Fuzly]

I guess some may have missed that demonstration.

What are ya, rich? Use all that ketchup

 

[Little Al]

I am so sick of these oil threads !

And all the whining about aviation gas and ethanol.

No one wants to talk about what is really important!

Let's get down to the really important part of the two-cycle fuel trinity: THE AIR!

I only run German air in STIHL saws. I suck it out of sealed boxes from my dealer

Soooooooooo much better! Let's me run any decent quality saw oil at 49.683:1 with confidence.

Philbert

I supose that living the other side of the POND is an issue in this respect. I would be a bit careful as I would think that by the time it gets to you, it has suffered contamination, even here we are having quality problems & are resorting to driving to the border at one of the more rural crossings & collecting first hand[ Iv`e heard on good info on the grape vine Stihl are marketing an air purity meter but at 4000 euros its too pricey for me] I`ll carry on filtering my collected supplies through several sweaty socks [+ i`ve just aquired a labrador from the refuge/ pound & let me say his sniffing quality is mind blowing, I`m renting him out to the neighbors for a small fee to rate the quality of the gathered product that will go towards the fuel to gather further supplies] Having to be a bit careful now as the number of cases of air rustleing are on the increase. I have made a rule if it`s less than 93.65483% pure or contains any trace of farts I discard it, as I find it really affects the running requiring constant mix adjustments.

 

[Matt81]

I use any synthetic or synthetic blend oil that complies with JASO FC or JASO FD. I have been using Dolmar synthetic for the last 5 years or so across many different saws and other 2-stroke equipment with zero problems. I have recently switched to Husqvarna LS+ as i get a good deal on bulk purchases. Plus i have some Castrol 2 stroke synthetic motorbike oil that i have been using for a while now just to get rid of it as i don't have any 2-stroke bikes anymore.

Just a question about the Husqvarna LS+ oil. Does it contain a fuel preservative? The dealer where i bought it said it does, but i cannot find any info from Huski that conforms this. Not a huge deal, but i have a different mix in a separate container for some saws that don't get used much. Would be nice to not have to throw it away if i don't use it in under 12 weeks.

 

[KenJax Tree]

E free 93 octane 40:1 with one of these

Sent from my Autotune Carb

 

[mdavlee]

E free 93 octane 40:1 with one of these

Sent from my Autotune Carb

I've used all of those except the MC1 and Motul 800. I have used the 710 and it seemed to work fine.

 

[KenJax Tree]

I think the only difference between the 800 and 710 is the 800 is better for power valves and that don't matter with saws anyways. I think the same goes for the MC-1 and the H1R too.


Sent from my Autotune Carb

 

[shootingarts]

I think the only difference between the 800 and 710 is the 800 is better for power valves and that don't matter with saws anyways. I think the same goes for the MC-1 and the H1R too.


Sent from my Autotune Carb

I considered the MC-1 before ordering the H1-R. It was listed at half the price when I first looked. When I went to buy it was only about 10% cheaper. Not sure and not a question I could get an answer to asking BelRay but isn't the MC-1 mineral oil based or mineral based with some ester added?

I don't know if it matters at all in a chainsaw but I wanted to try an ester based oil so I went to the H1-R. Interestingly bean oil breaks down and forms esters when it does start to "fail". Seems like we are final refining the bean oil in our engines!

Hu

 

[mdavlee]

I'm probably going to stick with the maxima K2 or klotz for the money. Motul is more expensive and my sinuses can't take belray when the wind isn't blowing the exhaust away quickly.

 

[KenJax Tree]

I considered the MC-1 before ordering the H1-R. It was listed at half the price when I first looked. When I went to buy it was only about 10% cheaper. Not sure and not a question I could get an answer to asking BelRay but isn't the MC-1 mineral oil based or mineral based with some ester added?

I don't know if it matters at all in a chainsaw but I wanted to try an ester based oil so I went to the H1-R. Interestingly bean oil breaks down and forms esters when it does start to "fail". Seems like we are final refining the bean oil in our engines!

Hu

I was wrong the H1R is ester based and the MC-1 although full synthetic it is mineral based.


Sent from my Autotune Carb