Compact or sub compact tractor?

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Tractor brand recomendation

  • Kubota

    Votes: 39 57.4%
  • John Deere

    Votes: 10 14.7%
  • New Holland

    Votes: 7 10.3%
  • Ls

    Votes: 2 2.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 10 14.7%

  • Total voters
    68
You'll likely be fine with the r4 if you're set on them. They do handle weight better.

I was set on my decision before this post but I wanted to hear from other people on what everyone thought was my best way to spend money. Tires are important and they all come with them and most brands will give you what ever style you want for no extra cost. Or so I have read on their sites.
 
I was set on my decision before this post but I wanted to hear from other people on what everyone thought was my best way to spend money. Tires are important and they all come with them and most brands will give you what ever style you want for no extra cost. Or so I have read on their sites.
My turfs will handle anything the tractor will handle. I don't think load rating is going to be an issue. The dealer will know if the tires are rated for that tractor and it's load rating. I run water in mine so that increases it's load rating. Water doesn't compress like air so they don't squat like they would with air only.
 
The Tires didn’t cause that Mista.

That’s a Case of Yo Fault.

That started with a little bit of mud when the front tired got stuck. The loader wouldn't push it out and I ended up driving farther into the mud and digging 2 foot holes in the ground. 4wd would have fixed my original stuck. Nothing would have helped the final stuck. My truck took a beating that day. Still going though.
 
That started with a little bit of mud when the front tired got stuck. The loader wouldn't push it out and I ended up driving farther into the mud and digging 2 foot holes in the ground. 4wd would have fixed my original stuck. Nothing would have helped the final stuck. My truck took a beating that day. Still going though.



We’ve all been there.
 
Well not everyone is a beginner and needs it. It's useless in most cases. A good operator can make those adjustments with the up/down control. Besides, not all large tractors have that feature ether.
I guess it depends on what YOUR definition of a "large" tractor is...

It's far from useless.....otherwise it wouldn't be on ANY tractor...

ALL of MY "large" tractors have it, and even some of my not so large have it... lol

SR
 
I was set on my decision before this post but I wanted to hear from other people on what everyone thought was my best way to spend money. Tires are important and they all come with them and most brands will give you what ever style you want for no extra cost. Or so I have read on their sites.

My point was dont get to wrapped around it.

Ultimately, with how you intend to use the tractor the majority of the time, Id pick turfs. They are easier on the yard, and provide better traction for snow removal.

But "easier on the yard" can be subjective. My r4 tires didn't tear the yard up much at all. The turfs simply do it even less.
 
I run water in mine so that increases it's load rating.

Negative. Just means better traction. The tractor didn't suddenly get built with heavier duty parts.

I've seen plenty of front axles torn up from loader use.
Add a ton of weight on the drives and it'll be overloading the steer axle when picking up heavy things.


A friend was going through tractor front ends often enough on his dairy farm he went out and bought a regular front end loader for moving feed and manure.
 
Go to Youtube and look at all of the videos on small tractors. The John Deere 1025 class of small tractor does a lot of work. Also, look around for good used tractors. There are several sites that advertise them. I just bought my John Deere 3038e locally from a John Deere mechanic. I have about half the money in it that a new one costs. It only has 234 hours on the whole tractor and 17 on a brand new motor. It is a great tractor.
 
My turfs will handle anything the tractor will handle. I don't think load rating is going to be an issue. The dealer will know if the tires are rated for that tractor and it's load rating. I run water in mine so that increases it's load rating. Water doesn't compress like air so they don't squat like they would with air only.

I'm not so sure about that one. The tires will still see the same pressure on them. AFAIK the load rating on the sides of the tires goes, whether they are loaded or not.
 
Negative. Just means better traction. The tractor didn't suddenly get built with heavier duty parts.

I've seen plenty of front axles torn up from loader use.
Add a ton of weight on the drives and it'll be overloading the steer axle when picking up heavy things.


A friend was going through tractor front ends often enough on his dairy farm he went out and bought a regular front end loader for moving feed and manure.

I don't run a FEL and I was referring to the tires carrying more weight, not the tractor.
 
Go to Youtube and look at all of the videos on small tractors. The John Deere 1025 class of small tractor does a lot of work. Also, look around for good used tractors. There are several sites that advertise them. I just bought my John Deere 3038e locally from a John Deere mechanic. I have about half the money in it that a new one costs. It only has 234 hours on the whole tractor and 17 on a brand new motor. It is a great tractor.
Wonder how someone blew up a 3038 with only 200 hours ? That's barely broken in. Sweet deal for you !
 
I don't run a FEL and I was referring to the tires carrying more weight, not the tractor.

They're right though, in that adding fluid doesn't do anything for the tire's ability to carry a load. More traction and stability, yes, more capacity, no. Actually, they'll only fill tires to 75% to allow for some air in there specifically so it can compress and absorb shock. Now you could fill your tires with foam and increase their strength, but then you'd be transferring a lock of shock to the frame and the operator.
 
Interestingly Kubota used to specifically recommend against loading tires. The Kubota recommended solution was a ballast box. Not sure if that's still the case, but it used to be all over their brochures.
The reasoning was never stated - just the recommendation.
 
They're right though, in that adding fluid doesn't do anything for the tire's ability to carry a load. More traction and stability, yes, more capacity, no. Actually, they'll only fill tires to 75% to allow for some air in there specifically so it can compress and absorb shock. Now you could fill your tires with foam and increase their strength, but then you'd be transferring a lock of shock to the frame and the operator.

Well at a blistering speed of 6 mph. I don't think a rough ride is an issue. I have mine as full as I can get them.
 
I still don't think you are increasing load capacity of the tires. That would come at the expense of exceeding the specs on the side of the tires, and increasing chances of a tire failure - whether what was in the inside was air or water. Also, with no airspace inside, they would see quite a swing in pressures with swings in temperatures - that is likely the reason for the recommendations against filling full. Whenever we get tires loaded, they always aim for putting enough in just to cover all the rim area.
 
I still don't think you are increasing load capacity of the tires. That would come at the expense of exceeding the specs on the side of the tires, and increasing chances of a tire failure - whether what was in the inside was air or water. Also, with no airspace inside, they would see quite a swing in pressures with swings in temperatures - that is likely the reason for the recommendations against filling full. Whenever we get tires loaded, they always aim for putting enough in just to cover all the rim area.

I live in Texas, what temp swings? :) I have not had any issues with temp swings and tire pressure.
 

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