dolmar vs husky 78cc-90cc

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cupar

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So I am buying a new saw and it's bigger then what I thought I'd buy, I've never run a saw this big either. I suffer from tendonitis but it only flares up when I'm not wearing anti vib gloves on a 365-372xp and doesn't at all on a ms362. Is the vibration of a ps-7910, 390xp, or ps-9010 that much worse? I plan on a 3 bar combo. 20" full house chisel, 28" skip and 42" skip. The 42" will only be for ice fishing and finishing cuts on stumps. I've got a 42" ice auger and it didn't make it through the ice this last winter, i walked 10 feet and tried again and went through 41.7" of ice to hit water. I currently own a ms201 rear handle, and a 353xp. The 201 is great with a 16" 3/8LP but is a climbing and bucket saw. The 353 I push to the limits with a 20" .325.

This is the second biggest I have cut, this is a ms362 and I'm 6'3"

I had to use a 362 with a 20", Not proud of either tree, I messed up the felling of the top and the second one I can't take credit for cutting it, I just was left with a stump.

There's a good supply husky dealer 15-20 minutes away, a great service dealer 30-35 min away. My brother in law owns a new holland dealership that sells dolmar, however he's 12-14 hours away.

My current order is 9010, 390, 7910. However I'm not sure he will be able to get a brand new 9010 in, I haven't seen any new ones anywhere in canada or the united states. I think there's a good price difference between the 390 and 7910 that might make me pinch a penny or two and get a 7910 and forget the 42" and find a 32 or 36. My 353 has been run over and had a tree fall on it. Then I bought it and have been beating the crap out of it myself haha, I'm going to keep it my work horse till it dies. My new saw will only get 5 engine hours ever couple months, unless a contract comes up or work starts renting it from me. Any opinions? I'm a utility tree trimmer, I might use the saw for fire wooding small amounts aka a face cord or 2 a year, the odd large tree, maybe 1 every 3-5 month, and ice fishing maybe 3-5 times a winter.

Anything I'm not considering? I think the best saw would in general be a 390 but I like the rarity of the 9010 and the price of the 7910. Any other suggestions? Not stihl! I love my 201, I like my work supplied 192 and I like the 880, not particularily interested in the 362, 440/1, 460, or even 660. Is there heavier duty vibration dampeners?
 
When my 353 dies, this will get a little bit more work till I buy a 346 or 365/72 to replace it. That will be a battle for another day though.
 
390xp or jonsered 2188- end of discussion. Dont know where you are from but there are sponsors here that will beat ANY price you can get locally.
 
I don't think the vibes of the 390xp is worse, the 9010 likely will be much worse (and very heavy).

The 7900 used to be banned from pro use in Germany because of what seemed to be excessive vibes - I don't know what the current status is, and if it really was that bad.....

One thing I do know, is that the measurable numbers that often are in the specs aren't the full truth about vibration - not even close to.
 
Its hard to beat Husky smoothness and if you need a 36" bar, the 390 (preferably ported) is the choice as the big 9010 Dolmar was discontinued in the US. I have tendentious as well and found my 066 bothering me so I have a 460 with roll bar padding on the handle and it really helps. But I got a 395 for my 36" bar saw and find it very smooth. It has a good deal more power than my dual port 066 did and is much better balanced.
 
I've found the Dolmar 7900 the smoothest saw I've run in that size - ran a few of them too and they're all smooth. The 390XP's are close but the big old Dolmar 9000's are pretty rough in comparison. Tough saws but a pretty old design now.
 
I don't think the vibes of the 390xp is worse, the 9010 likely will be much worse (and very heavy).

The 7900 used to be banned from pro use in Germany because of what seemed to be excessive vibes - I don't know what the current status is, and if it really was that bad.....

One thing I do know, is that the measurable numbers that often are in the specs aren't the full truth about vibration - not even close to.
First time I have ever heard of such a thing! And I know quite a few pros and pros on forums who have used or currently use the 7900/7910.

7
 
Pm Spike60, Tlandrum, Tk, if $ is important. I thought my 7900 was a very smooth saw. I don't like skip chain it is not as smooth as full. Some say Husky576 is ultra smooth, mine was. I preferred 576AT to 7900. New Jonsered is a little cheaper than Husky and it looks better to me. Check out Tlandrums web page for comparison. I just got a ported 390 a lot more power than 7900 or 576AT but weighs 1.5lbs more. It doesn't look like the weight will hurt you. There have been some good deals on 90cc Husky and Jonsereds in Tradin'Post.
Happy shopping.:D

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husqvarna-576xp-auto-tune.258303/#post-4839704
I was temped by this and I just sold one.
 
One thing I do know, is that the measurable numbers that often are in the specs aren't the full truth about vibration - not even close to.[/QUOTE]
I think this is a case where the number lie big time.
 
One thing I do know, is that the measurable numbers that often are in the specs aren't the full truth about vibration - not even close to.
I think this is a case where the number lie big time.[/QUOTE]
For every manufacturer...

7
 
One thing I do know, is that the measurable numbers that often are in the specs aren't the full truth about vibration - not even close to.
I think this is a case where the number lie big time.

Very true, those numbers can be quite misleading, at least in relationship to how the vibes are felt in the hands.
 
The 390 and 7900 are both very smooth, I don't think I could pick which is smoothest. I pad the handles on my saws and it really helps, elasto-start if high compression and sore right elbow issues.
 
thanks guys I ran the 575 and was burning them out faster then 365's doing slashing, (slashing being 2" - 14") trees. We'd get 8-10 months from a 365 but only 7-8 out of a 575. I don't know how much the 576 improved this. but thats about 1800-2200 hours of operation on a 575 and 2200-2800 hours out of a 365, which means a 575 would last me years haha but thats a little small for what I want. Thanks for bringing up sponsor's because of this site bailey's has gotten another customer. However whether or not I can get a better price somewhere else buying a top model dolmar from not my brother would make an awkward conversation come christmas haha. I'm sure he will be able to come close in price.

@ sawfun - do you know where I can get that roll bar padding or did you make your own? I haven't thought of that and it sounds fantastic.

@ 1 man band - I might go full house 28" depending on usage. The 42" will be skip just because of power? Again a 372xp or 575 is the largest saw I've ran for any real amount of time. Could a 390 or 9010 turn 42" full when buried? Also I said skip because cutting threw ice is very dirty and would dull a saw pretty quick and 42" is alot of sharpening no matter how you put it.

I checked the vib of 9010 vs 390 and dolmar beats the husky at the read handle and loses at the front handle. However the dolmar does weigh alot more according to the spec sheet. That's not a make or break it deal as it won't be used for all day cutting. besides if it's too heavy the fiancee won't use it :) that isn't exactly bad, then again she thinks my 353 is about as heavy as she wants. Actually it's heavier then what she wants. I was more curious if there was a step spike in vibration between a mid size and large chainsaw, aka mope'd vs dirtbike scenario.
 
Redoakneck, For saws this big do you need the compression switch? I will take full shame for being told and then telling others that it was the b**** switch. I have learned better but on a cold day -20C or colder and working on top of sulfer mountain in banff, I spent probably 20 minutes pulling my shoulder out before I had to use the switch and wow was it great, I still don't use the switch unless it take me more then a minute or two, bad habits. I used to regularly frown on someone using the switch or using the ground start method. Anyone new to chainsawing, use the switch as the manual suggests, use the ground start method if you want or the crotch method, never drop start a saw. Then if any idiot such as myself says boo fricken hoo, just laugh inside knowing that idiot spent alot of time wearing pull cords because he needed to do it the "manly" way.
 
I use the switch when it is cold because I know I'll have to pull 5-6 times, I don't always use it when it is warm because I know it is 1 pull. A 90cc saw with 200psi can make my elbow sore if it is hard to start. Being manly and smart CAN be one in the same.
 
yeah, I've heard the newest 365's have a rubber or plastic carb elbow that will (can) crack without it at -10C or colder
 
MCW...... in your experience, how much will the OP's chain choice (full house, semi skip, or full skip), affect the vibration felt to the hands?

-omb

Interesting question actually as vibration is highly subjective. You definitely notice more vibes on skip chain, not so much semi skip, compared to non skip. In my opinion though raker height has more to do with vibration and if you get too greedy you'll feel it big time.
Timber species also plays a big part too.

Oh and as far as using a decomp to start I rarely do on saws under 50cc but on larger saws it can put too much stress on the starting components without it. It's not about the testosterone, it's about being nice to your equipment.
 

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