dolmar vs husky 78cc-90cc

[pro94lt]

Nothing at all

 

[MCW]

Asplundh may disagree, constantly get news from the states of someone used one one handed and cut themselves, or their landyard. I don't know how, I suspect drugs or alcohol. Hell I've used my rear handle one handed, they're so light and weak. great for limbing and small tops. BTW I don't work for asplundh. I don't mean to insult anyone who has been injured, accidents happen and they're just that, accidents.

Whoops sorry but I meant damage from vibration, not damage from cutting yourself. Top handles have the potential to be extremely dangerous for inexperienced or careless people. For experienced users I don't believe they are any more dangerous than a rear handle. Accidents do happen however, no doubt about it.

 

[cupar]

I don't believe them to be more dangerous then any other saw, however every saw carries risk, I was more referring to your comment on their light weight, You said rotating mass but they're overall mass is so light that they're very easily controllable.

Anyway since the vibration doesn't seem to be teeth rattling on any of the aforementioned saws, and do to it's limited use I don't think weight will be life or death, heck whats 1kg anyways, (that was a joke after 12 hours 1kg is a slap in the face). I think I'm going with the 9010 if I can get it since it's not in production for the north american market, if I can't I'll go with the 390xp unless the 7910 is $275 or more cheaper.

 

[pro94lt]

Your out on 395?

 

[cupar]

yeah, it's not on my list, I used the search bar and read alot of 390 vs 395 threads and chose the 390.

 

[MCW]

I don't believe them to be more dangerous then any other saw, however every saw carries risk, I was more referring to your comment on their light weight, You said rotating mass but they're overall mass is so light that they're very easily controllable.

It's not so much that top handles are more dangerous from our point of view but the facts are that they tend to cause far more left forearm injuries than rear handled saws. I don't believe kickback is the issue (although some would argue that point), more that people are likely to use them one handed and reach in front of a running chain to remove cut limbs.
I think you're still misunderstanding me on my 200T comment and it was regarding vibration on saws with rubber anti vibe mounts. My initial response was related to your comment about rubber anti vibe mounts and vibration on the 200T. Small saws don't tend to have major vibration regardless of whether they are spring or rubber mount. When you go to a rubber mounted MS660 then they have massive vibration compared to a 390XP or 7900 although still not enough to bother me personally.

While we're talking vibration have you run a Dolmar 9000 or Makita 9010? If not you may want to run one before you buy it if vibration is a concern. I've found them to be a pretty rough saw but they do run well - their filter is pretty old school though. You can't go wrong with any of the 3 saws on your list but the Dolmar 7900/7910 will be lacking torque against a 9000/9010 or 390XP. In Australia we can buy a Makita 9010 for around $500 cheaper than a 390XP

 

[nstueve]

I don't think the vibes of the 390xp is worse, the 9010 likely will be much worse (and very heavy).

The 7900 used to be banned from pro use in Germany because of what seemed to be excessive vibes - I don't know what the current status is, and if it really was that bad.....

One thing I do know, is that the measurable numbers that often are in the specs aren't the full truth about vibration - not even close to.

I don't know what 7900 you're talking aobut but every 7900/7910 I've ever seen is not any where close to "excessive vibes"... The 6400-7900 platform is based on an all spring AV system that is smoother than any other saw I've run in it's class. The husky's come close but still not as smooth in my opinion.

Rigid/rubber AV systems is what you stay away from if you have problems with vibration. So the 9010 is definitely out of the running. If you want to run a 40" bar you need 90-95cc's so I would think the 395xp would be the logical choice. They have spring AV systems, are smooth, and powerful enough to run a 40" bar.

Although the OP is a little off base trying to run everything from a 24"-40" bar on one saw. I could understand running a 24"-32" on a 70cc-80cc saw. Using such a wide array of bar sizes for one saw will require that the short bar be way over-powered and the power head to be way to heavy for using over a longer period. A three saw plan is usually the best. 35-45cc light limber, 65-80cc for everything in the middle (main work saw), 90cc saw for the big 36"+ work.

I'm sure this was all resolved a page back but wanted to throw my 2 cents in just b/c I could... Looks like the OP got a 390???

 

[pro94lt]

I highly recommend a 395 for a real work saw. It looks like you'll be working it commercially and the reviews of 390 vs 395 are mostly coming from hobby guys. In my opinion a 395 is in another league with bars over 36 compared to the 390. I've got a nasty strong 390 and it pulls a 36 with no problems but just can't compete with the 395 in bigger wood...

 

[SawTroll]

I don't know what 7900 you're talking aobut but every 7900/7910 I've ever seen is not any where close to "excessive vibes"...

No, there isn't - but if you go by just the vibe specs it can look that way. I always said that those numbers don't tell the full story - but some beurocrats may believe they do.
I assume that is what happened - but I also think they came to their senses and eventually lifted the ban?

As I remember it, this was a somewhat hot topic on the German saw forums back in 2005 or so.

 

[cupar]

MCW thank you for the input again, I was a little confused as I had run lots of 200/1 rear and top handle's and own a 201 rear, and never ever thought about vibration from it since I don't think it makes any vibration at all.

Every saw I've seen or at least paid attention too was spring AV, is the 7900/9010 rubber mount? I was under the impression they were spring. The 390 definitely is.

@nstueve If I got the 7910 I wouldn't be putting a 40+ on it, and the real reason I would get the 42" for the other 2 is for cutting ice, a 36" bar does no good if ice is 37" deep. Although I would use it for stumps when needed. I have a 20" bar and chain brand new so why not, put the chain on backwards and it'd cut like a hot knife through butter. The only bar I'd be buying for it for wood would be the 28" for actual wood cutting. However my husq 353 has an 18 and 20" bar that I use for the majority of everything. I'd love a 5 saw plan (ms201t, 346xp, 365xp, 390xp/9010, ms880) but I'm 5 saws short lol.

@pro94lt I'm sorry I could've ended your confusion earlier, it will be a hobbyist saw for all intents and purposes, 9/10 days it will be sitting on the floor in the garage, getting less then 50 hours a year. I live in alberta, where if I were to buy a work saw I'd only need a 365/72 with a 18-20" bar for most of the day and a 24-28" for large felling.

 

[cupar]

so not even the dealer can import a 9010 into canada, so now it comes down to the 7910 or the 390xp for $325 more

 

[CapitaineHaddoc]

A 7910 will pull the bars you want without problem, i run "28 full comp on my 7900 sometimes. But "42 is probably too much for the 7910's oiler (but i can't be sure, i don't need that kind of bar myself).

But for $325 less, i'll choose the 7910. And to answer your question, yes, there's spring AV on the 7900/7910, not rubber.
It will be a good runner, lot of torque, and very well manufactured IMHO!

 

[cupar]

well the Scottish in me is showing, I'm going with the 7910W. I won't be getting a 42" bar. I'll put up pictures and answer any questions when I get it.

 

[cupar]

Yeah, I've learned some tips and tricks for oiling large bars, since my 353 can't properly oil a 20" bar. (one of various broken/worn parts)

 

[CapitaineHaddoc]

Yeah, I've learned some tips and tricks for oiling large bars, since my 353 can't properly oil a 20" bar. (one of various broken/worn parts)

Yep, and if you can post some vids from you cutting "40 ice, that will be awesome, i never cut ice until now (and i'll probably never have the chance to try), but i'll like to see this!

I suppose that a bar buried in the ice won't need the same amount of oil than needed in a log, maybe the 7910 will be enough for a "42 bar in ice?

EDit: Just found a vid, the guy say that the saw is a 036 with a "32 bar

 

[cupar]

Had to take a picture because I couldn't believe the ice was that thick.


The tip to the handle is 42" overall length is 56" . I wasn't planning any ice carving. Just a fishing hole, I've heard to run no oil and let the ice cool it or vegetable or other edible oil.

 

[lone wolf]

My 7900 is the smoothest saw I have ever run.

 

[cupar]

hmm after watching that video it looks like my plan of attack would be go to my spot in clothes i don't like cut my hole, I'd push the ice in instead of taking out, to keep snowmobiles from smashing their machines on it, then go home change my clothes haha that guy must have been covered in water even if it was just mist, then come back and fish.

 

[cat-face timber]

Sorry to De-Rail, but do you actually need to lube your bar when cutting ice?

 

[cupar]

Sorry to De-Rail, but do you actually need to lube your bar when cutting ice?

Yes if it's just ice, no if it's ice and water. I've been told to use vegetable oil. If you want to cut ice slowly and take your time I wouldn't imagine it'd be needed.