Looking for opinions on a "big saw" purchase: Still 661vs Husky 576 xp autotune or wait

[Chris-PA]

Thanks for all the replies, I think I may take a more serious look at a 70cc auto-tune/m-tronic option, even if I have to wait for a new saw to hit the market. I think the 661 may just be way more saw than I need, and since all my money is hard-earned, I'd like to spend it wisely. In the meantime, I may just purchase a longer bar(24" or 28") for my 562xp and see how I like the results. I've considered this option before, but I felt that running that long of a bar on a 60cc saw was pushing the limits of what these size saws were capable of, especially since I cut almost exclusively Eastern Hardwoods and I believe that noodling big rounds would put added strain on a saw this size-if in wrong about this, someone please correct me, and I've always believed in the old saying "right tool for the right job". Thanks again and I appreciate the feedback, keep it coming.

If it turns out you just want a bigger saw then go for it, but you don't need one for that use. Time spent running the saw is a small part of the job, so it won't make a huge difference.

The pictures I posted were white oak and white ash, and I've cut up several more - although we don't have many trees that size left, having lost a bunch to storms in the last few years. They were bucked and noodled into quarters so I could move them without hurting myself.

If you don't already have a setup, maybe invest some of that dough in a good chain vise and filing equipment, or grinder setup if that's your preference. If the chain is sharp you won't hurt the saw by using it. Heck, some of that oak was noodled with a 46cc saw and 20" bar:

 

[Khntr85]

If it turns out you just want a bigger saw then go for it, but you don't need one for that use. Time spent running the saw is a small part of the job, so it won't make a huge difference.

The pictures I posted were white oak and white ash, and I've cut up several more - although we don't have many trees that size left, having lost a bunch to storms in the last few years. They were bucked and noodled into quarters so I could move them without hurting myself.

If you don't already have a setup, maybe invest some of that dough in a good chain vise and filing equipment, or grinder setup if that's your preference. If the chain is sharp you won't hurt the saw by using it. Heck, some of that oak was noodled with a 46cc saw and 20" bar:

This video brings back memories when I had an old manual oiling craftsman with a 20" bar, and a ms250!!!!


I tell you I used my ms250 way beyond what it was intended to do...maintenance, and as you said a sharp chain will keep any saw operating at an optimal level.....of course as I got older and more into the "addiction", I have pro-saws....

I still like to use my ol trusty ms250, sometimes....I looked at the muffler a week or so ago, and even though I have used her a lot and hard, it still looks good....

i grabbed the ms250 to get a few loads of hickory.....I even had the 18" bar buried a few times....although she was no speed demon, with a sharp chain and a light hand, she had no problems......

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

Thanks for all the replies, I think I may take a more serious look at a 70cc auto-tune/m-tronic option, even if I have to wait for a new saw to hit the market. I think the 661 may just be way more saw than I need, and since all my money is hard-earned, I'd like to spend it wisely. In the meantime, I may just purchase a longer bar(24" or 28") for my 562xp and see how I like the results. I've considered this option before, but I felt that running that long of a bar on a 60cc saw was pushing the limits of what these size saws were capable of, especially since I cut almost exclusively Eastern Hardwoods and I believe that noodling big rounds would put added strain on a saw this size-if in wrong about this, someone please correct me, and I've always believed in the old saying "right tool for the right job". Thanks again and I appreciate the feedback, keep it coming.

Keep an eye on these chainsaw sites. Good deals come. Just be ready to jump on the good deals because they don't last long.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

 

[SeMoTony]

Thanks for all the replies, I think I may take a more serious look at a 70cc auto-tune/m-tronic option, even if I have to wait for a new saw to hit the market. I think the 661 may just be way more saw than I need, and since all my money is hard-earned, I'd like to spend it wisely. In the meantime, I may just purchase a longer bar(24" or 28") for my 562xp and see how I like the results. I've considered this option before, but I felt that running that long of a bar on a 60cc saw was pushing the limits of what these size saws were capable of, especially since I cut almost exclusively Eastern Hardwoods and I believe that noodling big rounds would put added strain on a saw this size-if in wrong about this, someone please correct me, and I've always believed in the old saying "right tool for the right job". Thanks again and I appreciate the feedback, keep it coming.

How many cutters on a comp chain 24 - 28". If you go to semi skip or skip a 36" bar wood have similar resistance in the cut and clear chips better. Noodle cuts with the grain making it less work on the powerhead. So IMHO use a 70cc saw with longer bar and skip chain to noodle one day to compare. Let your experience give the answer you seek. A chain is a lot less cost, than two pounds heavier, twenty cc a and thirteen hundred bucks a tax and all for a new saw.

 

[KiwiBro]

7910
Quality. Affordable. Proven.
Some good dealers on this site for 'em.

 

[foeke]

+1 for the 7910. Who needs a dealer if it doesn't break.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

[birddogtg]

I do a lot of noodling with ported 562,7900 and 660 and they all do really well.The 2 bigger motors are the fastest but you have to watch the 660 because it will plug up pretty easy but if you see it starting to happen just change the angle of the saw from 90 to 45 degrees until it clears.This works most of the time.