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The "shop" suggested you needed a new plug,you don't mention that you cleaned it or replaced it with a new one. Try a new plug before you "jerk" the rope out of it and have to start a new thread on "Fixing my recoil starter".

The easiest way I've found to "work around" the leaky fuel bowl is to tip the engine to the side and "prime" the bowl.Works on mowers,maybe your blower can be "man-handled" too.(Really hard to do on a wood splitter.)

You might try to meet gmax,he has some interesting saws.He lists Adelaide as home,sort of in the neighborhood.He is still looking for a battery pack for his 3-10E,could you help him out?

If you need more info on the Tillotson HL carbs,check out Gary's rebuild thread here: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=64450 Good luck with the 08,one of my favorite saws.

Bailey's (a site sponsor) has 1/4" chain here: http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=25AP%20Oregon&catID=793 Count your drive links and they will make a chain for you. They also have some good deals on bars for your saw here...

I don't know how hard Blue Spruce is,but that chain is really piling up some nice chips.The chain is doing fine from what I can see.I wonder why it took so long to make that cut .

The "neat way" to add a little clearance to the cover is to buy an extra outside bar plate and double up.The "double-D" carb tool (about $3 or so)is found at Edge and Engine.They can get the bar plates too,something less than $2 as I remember.They also stock the "odd-ball" sparkplugs in NGK brand.

Pictures of the cylinder would help.Most likely the cylinder will clean up OK.My guess is a piston and rings will put it back in business.Check Bailey's (they did have some on close-out, #PKS025, but they might be sold out)or give Fish a try.He usually has quite a few Stihl parts. It will be a...

If this is as bad as it sounds,you might need to look up Fish.He's a little south of Bardstown,not that far from you.

You really need to add heat,try alternating "Saturday Night Fever" with the "Grease". (Some are a little slow on the uptake.)

You can use either one,acid or a caustic soda,to remove the aluminum.The acid is commonly used because it's recommended most often.The use of lye in various forms,such as drain cleaners and oven cleaners,works just as well and is a little easier in my opinion to use.The reason I like them better...

Your Homelite looks like it was cleaned up with a pressure washer.Pretty much a death sentence for the insides,you might want to consult Modified Mark when he comes off the "Disabled List".He revived a Dayton he received that had been "cleaned",but it was a major project.

One turn open on the Low is a little lean,take it to at least 1 1/2 to 2 turns open and see how it goes.It should idle there,then adjust as needed.

Pull the sparkplug and clean it.The plug will foul out pretty often after a re-build.After you burn out the excess assembly lube it will run fine.

Don't give up on it ,that little screw might be used to plug a blind hole.Run a tag wire (or the wire from a bread twister with the plastic removed) through all of the passages and loosen up the crud.After the junk is loosened up you should be able to finish the cleaning by spraying it out with...

No need to remove the screw from the vent.Remove the rear cover and check the vent by shaking the saw (like shaking a piggy bank) and watch for fuel coming out the vent.A good shake will put some pressure in the tank and some air and fuel should come bubbling out.Any cracks in the fuel line will...

Try a new fuel filter,make sure the fuel line isn't kinked going to the carb and check that the tank vent is clear.

Looks like Sassafras,burns good but throws sparks pretty bad.

As to your little Homelite XL,check the kill switch.Those little saws are tough to wear out,but the switches do conk out after thirty years or so.

Try turning the primer bulb a quarter turn to the left and pull it straight out.Not much slack to work with so take it easy.(The saw should run even if the primer bulb is shot.)