Old vintage saws everywhere I looked

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Its just a thingamobob ,with the chain going that direction.
Saw looks fantastic.
It looks like its on backwards doesn't it. The place where we would normally say the raker is looks like a backwards facing tooth. I've never seen a chain like it. I'll post a up close in case no one else has either. Maybe its why that chain/bar was returned cuz it looks alienish.
And thanks for the like. Not sure the pics show it but it really doesn't look bad considering I did ZERO sanding of the primer coat to smooth out then a recoat of primer like one normally would with trying to get a good finish. it'll do!
 
It looks like its on backwards doesn't it. The place where we would normally say the raker is looks like a backwards facing tooth. I've never seen a chain like it. I'll post a up close in case no one else has either. Maybe its why that chain/bar was returned cuz it looks alienish.
And thanks for the like. Not sure the pics show it but it really doesn't look bad considering I did ZERO sanding of the primer coat to smooth out then a recoat of primer like one normally would with trying to get a good finish. it'll do!
Ok, I see that it looks like" advance cut" chain from Oregon. Has a dog eared raker.
 
Probly safety chain. I have had good luck with the oregon v series chain. There is a good chance it's made in usa. I just bought a loop of oregon 72 chain for my pl4 16" bar and it said made in usa. I bet this chain came with your bar but 70DL instead of 60. I have had good success with it, it's probly full chisle safety chain I would guess. Same chain but 25+ years or more apart in manufacturing, also included is a cool pic if you are oregon chain kinda guy16464381488524006940182479349003.jpg16464382642444858914224304037893.jpg16464384272627726944169743068550.jpg
 
Getting closer to done on the Remington SL4...It's better than it was. Have a detail outline to tape off on the cover and going to respray the bottom and try some clear coat to see if it will help hold and keep the chipping down.
The bar n chain came in too, 20", 3/8. Said it had a scratch on the paint as to why it was only 31 bucks... scratch is back by the clutch so who cares.
These pics show the air lid with a lot of paint missing. I ended up taping up the middle of the cover to keep the name and just painted the side. View attachment 970074View attachment 970075View attachment 970076
That looks stunning, well done.
 
Yeah, the box says AdvanceCut D70, and dog eared raker is a great description. Funny how the box list what looks like all old saws. Maybe its geriatric chain?
It doesn't have the safety strap in between cutters which I normally grind off.
bar_chain2.jpegbar_chain3.jpeg
 
Pulled out another saw from the pile to see what the Tanaka would do. I think its an ECS-4000. I runs on prime but after putting in new fuel line and carb diaphragms, it would start on choke with extremely high revs. Blocked off the muff and carb to see what presssure/vacuum would read and could not get it to build pressure. Worked crank around and finally got it to build pressure...I know I saw bubbles on the clutch side seal so pieced together some pipe fittings to get the worm gear off. Well, then I couldn't get it to build pressure again and dismantled some more parts to isolate and the intake boot was torn in two. So block off the intake directly removing boot out of equation and no bubbles, pressure holds and vacuum as well. So, taking pressure off and redoing test several times leads me to believe intake boot was causing me issues with initial testing. Anyway, I'm sure this part is NLA so I"m either SOL or gonna get creative.
Saw is really seen light use, p&c nice and shiny, just had to rig up a fuel line inside a fuel line deal.

intake boot.jpeg
 
You use a dayton when you climb a tree? That's pretty cool man. I seen your avatar
I vary them a bit. But I find that saw (same as the Poulan xxv countervibes) pretty comfy with 38cc's being plenty strong. I also like the Poulan 2300's that I have used alot as well as the craftsman versions of the 2300. I'm not a commercial climber....if I had to do it everyday, I'd most likely go more conventional saw route.
 
While waiting for parts for the Tanaka ECS-4000 and Shindaiwa 575, I dug out another saw to start on. Jonsereds 621, was missing a starter pawl clip, ebay'd one and installed. Carb was clean but diaphragms are borderline too stiff, softened up n some fuel a little and reinstalled fixing the lever height and reversing metering gasket order. Cylinder and piston are spotless. Fuel tank was full of crud or peeling tank sealer or someone stuffed some fine sand paper in the tank....I'm not sure which.

jonserd parts.jpegjonserd parts2.jpegjonserd.jpegtank stuff.jpegtank stuff2.jpeg
 
Piston looks great from exhaust side and has almost no carbon on top. Doing some cleaning and notice theres a hole in the carb/airbox area that I dont know if something is missing there or not. As seen in last pic.
Strong work! I am glad you are rescuing real saws. Keep it up! I had my first stray saw follow me home! (finally) It is a crapsman, so nothing too exciting, but it should be a good summer project. My guess is that it is about 20 yr old poulan. I have not even opened the case yet to see. Getting ready to make the trip N for the summer.
 
Strong work! I am glad you are rescuing real saws. Keep it up! I had my first stray saw follow me home! (finally) It is a crapsman, so nothing too exciting, but it should be a good summer project. My guess is that it is about 20 yr old poulan. I have not even opened the case yet to see. Getting ready to make the trip N for the summer.
Thanks, it's a way to pass time after daylight and keep the "voices" at bay.:crazy2:

I dont seek out the newer (20 yr old) saws often but I do have a bunch of the old craftsmans by Roper and Poulan....you should seek out those and give them a test run. This Roper built Craftsman 3.7 is an easy saw to work on and it's surprisingly grunty in the cut.


Craftsman SolidState 3.7_37.jpeg
 
Soldered in terminal for wire to coil in the top, coated with liquid tape, and shrink tubed it.
More cleaning, need to pull flywheel and clutch as it builds pressure but slowly leaking down. Vac test was holding better but going to redo to make sure I've got it right. Not sure I've got the pawl return springs right, but they catch and retract with starter assembly.


edit
Seeing the pic posted and that flywheel nut looks like its been gnawed on a bit...

wiring.jpegflywheel.jpeg
 
Found a couple more pesky wiring issues underneath flywheel. The black wire was bare and laying on the case.

I dont understand how the white wire broke like that. There was no room on that side of flywheel to get anything under there to break it. And I'm guessing the black wire coating just didn't like being coated in oil as it was brittle all over.

more wiring issues.jpegmore wiring issues2.jpegmore wiring issues3.jpeg
 
Hello Tom , I think the broken white wire broke in the area where it was work hardened from vibration . It looks to be a solid wire and it broke just behind the area where the weight was supported by the insulation crimp .
Hey Scott, I've got that part put back together now. It was fine strands and forgot to take a pic of that part buttoned up. If you enlarge the pic you can see strands in the part of the remaining wire connected to the condensor.

Looks like I'll have to pull the flywheel back off as I'm not getting fire. Cleaned the points, light emery paper, and cleaned with electrical cleaner prior to sealing up didn't change anything.
more wiring issues.jpeg
 

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